MEP 802a - split phase connection

[CFaul]

Hi everyone- new to the site and first time posting. I picked up a Tier 2 reset gen last week and starting to deeply familiarize myself with the generator. I have downloaded all the manuals and am having trouble on a scenario that I was hoping you all could advise me on. As you can see from the picture, I’m wanting to mount 2 separate plugs coming from the gen to make it more convenient when plugging into my cabin and/or power tools that are only 120 and greater than the 10 amp convenience outlets on the generator itself.

My question is this. Can I select the 120/240 option and run L1 & L3 to my cabin (via a 50 amp plug) and in addition run a single hot wire from L1 to a universal plug (like a 30 amp drier plug for tools) without having to switch the generator settings to only 120? I wanted to make sure I wasn’t putting myself or my tools in danger with this setup. Thx for any feedback you can provide

 

[nextalcupfan]

That should be fine just hooking 1 hot to L1 though I would probably do L3 myself.
FYI if you set the generator into 120V mode it sends everything to L3.
So if you did hook to L1 and put the set in 120V only you would get nothing.

 

[Mullaney]

Hi everyone- new to the site and first time posting. I picked up a Tier 2 reset gen last week and starting to deeply familiarize myself with the generator. I have downloaded all the manuals and am having trouble on a scenario that I was hoping you all could advise me on. As you can see from the picture, I’m wanting to mount 2 separate plugs coming from the gen to make it more convenient when plugging into my cabin and/or power tools that are only 120 and greater than the 10 amp convenience outlets on the generator itself.

My question is this. Can I select the 120/240 option and run L1 & L3 to my cabin (via a 50 amp plug) and in addition run a single hot wire from L1 to a universal plug (like a 30 amp drier plug for tools) without having to switch the generator settings to only 120? I wanted to make sure I wasn’t putting myself or my tools in danger with this setup. Thx for any feedback you can provide

.
Welcome to the Outfit!

Download the TM's (Technical Manuals) for your MEP. Those crusty, boring books will help you a lot. They have oil and maintenance specs along with troubleshooting flow charts. The -24 is the parts book that may be useful too. And there is a book just for the power plant in your machine.

Again, welcome to the group!

 

[CFaul]

That should be fine just hooking 1 hot to L1 though I would probably do L3 myself.
FYI if you set the generator into 120V mode it sends everything to L3.
So if you did hook to L1 and put the set in 120V only you would get nothing.

That’s great! I will for sure use L3 instead. Thank you

 

[Guyfang]

Look at the TM. It will tell you the who, when, where and what, along with the how.

 

[CFaul]

Look at the TM. It will tell you the who, when, where and what, along with the how.

Thank you - I will scour through that some more. I will admit that the more times I read through it, the more new things I learn, ha. Thx again

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
I think you are missing the point of having 120/240 supply to your cabin. Even setting up a simple service panel would be better. What do you have which will require a 30amp plug?
You might even be better off with a spider box. A 50amp input plug, and multiple 20 duplex receptacle and 30 amp, and 50 amp feed-thru

 

[CFaul]

Howdy,
I think you are missing the point of having 120/240 supply to your cabin. Even setting up a simple service panel would be better. What do you have which will require a 30amp plug?
You might even be better off with a spider box. A 50amp input plug, and multiple 20 duplex receptacle and 30 amp, and 50 amp feed-thru

Going to the cabin, I think we will just have a plug to run from gen set, although 50 amp may be overkill since we don’t have anything drawing that kind of juice. I was really more concerned about having the flexibility of having my cabin provided with power at 120/240 and if for some reason we needed to use a 120 outlet at the same time, I wouldn’t have to turn the gen off and flip the switches around

 

[CFaul]

Going to the cabin, I think we will just have a plug to run from gen set, although 50 amp may be overkill since we don’t have anything drawing that kind of juice. I was really more concerned about having the flexibility of having my cabin provided with power at 120/240 and if for some reason we needed to use a 120 outlet at the same time, I wouldn’t have to turn the gen off and flip the switches around

I’m also still very confused on this whole grounding bar and when/when not to remove it and use a grounding rod in the ground…

 

[nextalcupfan]

I’m also still very confused on this whole grounding bar and when/when not to remove it and use a grounding rod in the ground…

Keep in mind sometimes local laws might be different.

The neutral bonding strap needs to be removed IF anywhere else in the system is also neutral bonded.
In the case of a house this is almost always the case in your main panel, you can take a pic of the inside of your panel and we could probably tell you if you are bonded.

As for ground, in my area since the generator is connected to the house and the house is grounded the generator does NOT need its own ground rod.

I feel like you are a little confused with how 120/240v works. You are concerned with switching stuff around to run 120, but what do you think happens when you plug in a 120v appliance in your house/cabin? It just pulls off of 1 leg and returns on the neutral.

Now their has been several discussions on this forum about running these generators "imbalanced" but the general consensus is it really doesn't matter as long as you don't try to pull full amps or more on 1 leg while in 240v mode for extended periods.

 

[CFaul]

Keep in mind sometimes local laws might be different.

The neutral bonding strap needs to be removed IF anywhere else in the system is also neutral bonded.
In the case of a house this is almost always the case in your main panel, you can take a pic of the inside of your panel and we could probably tell you if you are bonded.

As for ground, in my area since the generator is connected to the house and the house is grounded the generator does NOT need its own ground rod.

I feel like you are a little confused with how 120/240v works. You are concerned with switching stuff around to run 120, but what do you think happens when you plug in a 120v appliance in your house/cabin? It just pulls off of 1 leg and returns on the neutral.

Now their has been several discussions on this forum about running these generators "imbalanced" but the general consensus is it really doesn't matter as long as you don't try to pull full amps or more on 1 leg while in 240v mode for extended periods.

This is great feedback. Thank you so much. I will take a picture of that panel inside and attach it.