MEP 803 return fuel line fittings

[Jerds19]

Hey all, I'm sure someone more smarter than me can find the thread that answers this question because it HAS to have been asked before, but I just couldn't find it!!!

My return lines from the injector up to the fuel rail are leaking (as they all do eventually it appears) but mine seem to have some odd crimpped fitting where they go into the return rail. The bottom of them is just pressed over a barb with a hose clamp it looks like, so that won't be a problem. (I've seen other videos where people have T fittings, possibly older molders? And in the thread referenced here in this awesome post it's my exact return rail, and they used line and clamps, which is exactly what I want to do.)

My question is how do I remove the top "crimped" metal portion as shown in this picture where it goes into the part I am probably incorrectly calling a "return rail".

Also from the awesome post linked above, I am FAIRLY certain I need to get 1/4" / 6.3mm line and associated clamps, once I figure out how to get the crimped fitting off, is this accurate?

I am ASSUMMING I just need to take a cutoff disk to the crimped fittings and cut a slit it them to remove them, and it will expose a 1/4" barb underneath and I'll be fine from there? Or is this a special system that isn't adaptable and I need to get barbs, T's, fittings and make a whole new "system" to accommodate the return fuel?
Thanks in advance, and if there is another post already addressing this I will GLADLY click any provided link since I was unable to find it myself!

 

[kloppk]

I use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the side of the metal collars and then just pry them off.
Replace the hose with new, use a gentle bend in the hose and re-attach with some S.S. hose clamps.

 

[Jerds19]

I use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the side of the metal collars and then just pry them off.
Replace the hose with new, use a gentle bend in the hose and re-attach with some S.S. hose clamps.

You rock sir!! I don't know if you remember or not, but you helped me fix a frequency relay issue on my other generator about 2 years ago!! You probably help with a lot of problems, much appreciated!!!

 

[Light in the Dark]

Dremel with caution... very easy to pass into the barb which its grabbing onto. I use a pair of vice grips and squeeze the ridges of the cap together, which makes a raised area on the cap... which I can then cut with metal shears or a shear/crimp tool.

Kurt covered the rest.

 

[fb40dash5]

It is in fact 1/4" hose, BTW. I used EFI rated just cuz... hopefully it lasts longer. And cuz it's, like, 1 whole foot of it.

FYI, that's actually the supply to the metering pumps. The small line off the end of the rail hooks to the return line from the injectors, though.

 

[Jerds19]

It is in fact 1/4" hose, BTW. I used EFI rated just cuz... hopefully it lasts longer. And cuz it's, like, 1 whole foot of it.

FYI, that's actually the supply to the metering pumps. The small line off the end of the rail hooks to the return line from the injectors, though.

Thanks for the clarification, love learning more about how things work! (at least I knew it had fuel in it!!! haha)

 

[Jerds19]

UPDATE: Did as ya'll suggest, squeezed the crimps together which caused a bulge and used a Dremel with cutoff wheel, took about 2 minutes total to cut all the crimps off, another 3 minutes to twist off all the hoses and deal with the hose crimps, then another 3 minutes to put on new generic 1/4" ID lines with clamps and the project was done! Seriously 10 maybe 15 minutes to do the whole thing, helped a ton knowing what to expect going into it and having the exact right parts already in hand when we started, thank you all!!

 

[The_DJ_Remixer]

UPDATE: Did as ya'll suggest, squeezed the crimps together which caused a bulge and used a Dremel with cutoff wheel, took about 2 minutes total to cut all the crimps off, another 3 minutes to twist off all the hoses and deal with the hose crimps, then another 3 minutes to put on new generic 1/4" ID lines with clamps and the project was done! Seriously 10 maybe 15 minutes to do the whole thing, helped a ton knowing what to expect going into it and having the exact right parts already in hand when we started, thank you all!!

Do you have an after picture? My rubber lines are dry rotten and I need to replace them asap. Thank you

 

[Light in the Dark]

Just use hose clamps on both ends of the new fuel lines, quick and easy. Remove the rotten hose off the hard fuel line barb and the metering pump barb, and replace with line of your choice. I use gates safety stripe. The numbers and diameters are in one of these threads for certain.

 

[The_DJ_Remixer]

Wondering where to cut the old brass part off the main line. I read a few threads a picture speaks a 1000 words

 

[Light in the Dark]

You want to cut the caps, with the Xs on them. Use a pair of plier sand squeeze the ridge sides together, which will bulge the other sides. Take a dremel and zip these caps off. Do not cut into the barb inside the hose, or into the primary brass tube that the barbs are mounted... or you will be buying a new rigid tube.

Once those caps are off, and youve taken the bad hose off the pump at the injector... you will see how easy the job is.

 

[Light in the Dark]

You will want to use needle nose to remove those little compression fittings where the rotten line mounts onto the metering pump barb... they may or may not be reuseable. If they aren't, you can source new or carefully use hose clamps.

 

[The_DJ_Remixer]

You will want to use needle nose to remove those little compression fittings where the rotten line mounts onto the metering pump barb... they may or may not be reuseable. If they aren't, you can source new or carefully use hose clamps.

Thank you for the help. I ordered some of the 3.5mm ID diesel fuel return cloth outer, rubber inner stuff that was suggested in another thread. It won't be here till Monday, as well as some of those same oem type clamps. I've got plenty to do, that's for sure!

 

[Beschneid]

I use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the side of the metal collars and then just pry them off.
Replace the hose with new, use a gentle bend in the hose and re-attach with some S.S. hose clamps.

We had that schedule outage the other night to do some Grid upgrade. Gen Set ran great all night, went out to find some fuel in and around the generator. Cleaned it up and noticed the leak one of those fittings or factory clamps/crimps.

I use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the side of the metal collars and then just pry them off.
Replace the hose with new, use a gentle bend in the hose and re-attach with some S.S. hose clamps.

Had a scheduled outage this week for Grid upgrade. Gen ran great, needed to use some of the fuel out of my Aux tank. Planning on moving, less to siphon out of the drum. Generator is on the “exclusion” list on the Purchase and sale. Unless they really want to pay $$. Got a great unit from @lightinthedark . Came out in the morning to find a leak. Checked it out after clean up to find it leaking at the clamp. I figured I’d find a part or solution here. It now makes sense that it is a return line since the unit ran well. I dont think I lost a lot , no need for Safe Harbors to clean up. All the air movement in the generator while run blew it all over

 

[Light in the Dark]

Don't rebuy the braided OEM line. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/safety-stripe/gates-safety-stripe-fuel-hose/gats/27000?q=27000

That's what I use when I do return repairs. It takes a little oil on each end to help slide the components together (since the OEM garbage line is 3.5MM, and this is 3MM) but I've yet to be told about a single leaking machine thats used it. Id buy a pack of 1/8" vacuum tees and replace them up at the injector returns, if it were me.

If your buyer wants a machine, just point them my way.

 

[Light in the Dark]

And its amazing what a very small but pressurized leak can do...

 

[DieselAddict]

I've also given up on the "factory" line. It lasts at best a few years then starts leaking. I'm using the 1/8" Gates fuel line on the return and 1/4" Gates fuel line on the supply.