Mep 803 with problems shutting down

[Guyfang]

You know, wire 137N goes from S-1, pin 3 to TB6-4.

Splits off, and one wire goes to M5, (fuel indicator) neg side.

Another wire goes from the TB6-4 to J3, (diagnostic cannon plug) pin r.

And the last wire goes to TB5-11, then on to P4-14 on the A2 (malfunction indicator). Could the fault indicator be bad? Back feeding that wire?

Or is M5 wired wrong? There is after all, 4 wires on M5.

 

[DieselAddict]

I'm trying to figure the best route to eliminate A2. Since I don't know all the failure modes for that device I'm just guessing. If CB1 shuts it down it we may be looking at a power leak on A2. If CB1 shuts it down the next step will be to lift the wire going to Term 4 on A2.

So far I feel reasonably good about eliminating Term3 of S1 and eliminating the starting circuit from the leak.

Now to work around the other side of the B+ circuit (A2).

What has me puzzled is why E-Stop didn't shut it down. That is going to be the same thing as pulling CB1.

An interesting puzzle.

 

[Triton]

I was able to check CB1 before going to work this am, I started the unit and turned S-1 to off then pulled CB1, it didn't turn off. I did try starting the unit with CB-1 pulled out and it would not start.

 

[lonesouth]

I'm chuckling to myself that most issues are where people can't their units to start, and here you are...

 

[Triton]

I rechecked tonight Pin N and no voltage with the switch in off position, Pin K and Pin R have 24 volts in off position. I rechecked and activated CB1 in the off position and it didn't shut off the system. Thanks for the correct pin out document, I enlarged that so I could read a lot easier.

 

[Guyfang]

Disconnect the canon plug to A-2 and try and starting and stopping.

 

[Triton]

Disconnected A-2 this am, guess what? Still didn't shut down, but that answers the question about A-2. Getting a little closer!

 

[DieselAddict]

Knowing what it isn't is important.

One step closer to finding the problem.

 

[Triton]

Guyfang, earlier in the post you mentioned M5 being wired wrong, should I check M-5 the Fuel Level Indicator for proper wiring?

 

[Guyfang]

If the wire is on the wire terminal, it could be back feeding to the wire going to S-1, pin 3. You said that wire was hot when disconnected from S-1. Also, pin r on the J3 diagnostics canon plug is hot with the S-1 turned off. That's not right. I explained it in message # 81. The voltage is supposed to COME from S-1, and go outwards. If A2 is no longer in the equation, then there are only a few other places to check.

 

[Triton]

Pin R on the J3 diagnostics canon plug is hot with the S-1 turned off when the engine is running, when I pull the fuel solenoid to shut off the motor it goes to 0 volts.
I checked the wires on both sides of TB6-4, they are correct, 137-N, 137-F on one side and 137-A and 137-U on the other side.
Also M-5 was correct with 128-B on S terminal and 137-H and 137-F on I terminal, 100AR was ground

 

[DieselAddict]

Hm.. Wonder if its the starter lockout switch.

 

[Triton]

How can I check that? Where is it located?

 

[DieselAddict]

I'm looking at the documents now.

 

[DieselAddict]

Do you know which relay is K16?

I would like you to start the unit then turn S1 to OFF. Next, remove K16 from its socket.

See if it shuts down.

 

[Triton]

Ok unit running, turned off S-1, pulled K-16, still running!

 

[DieselAddict]

OK. Same thing but pull K15.

 

[Triton]

Same thing still running!

 

[DieselAddict]

Ok. This should do it then. Disconnect all the wires from the alternator and make sure they aren't touching anything. I think either your regulator is bad or someone wired up the alternator wrong. Don't let any of the wires touch either other. Start it up then try to shut it down with S1.

 

[Triton]

That worked it shut down!! Thanks for the help! What does that mean bad alternator?