MEP-803A clicks but wont start

[dilligaf13]

I picked up an MEP-803A that was last used 4 years ago but supposedly ran strong. The ex-wife that sold it knew nothing about it but it's in good shape. Checked the fluids, (will change them as soon as I can confirm it runs) and threw some new batteries in it. when I rotate S-1 I hear the pump prime at aux fuel, but not in prime & run, and then it clicks but won't crank at start. It turns over at dead crank switch no problem so It's not the starter. I jumped terminal 3 & 7 on S-1 and it just clicks. I manually moved what I believe was the float inside the tank and it still wouldn't prime or start (Did hear a clicking noise when I moved it up. Does the dead crank bypass the starter solenoid? Also, behind the control box assembly I found the clicking was coming from a relay, but I swapped it with another and had no change. It appears as though two relays are missing.

 

[kloppk]

Whats missing is the S14 Frequenct Trip Switch left and the K12 Fault relay. Without them the starter will not turn the engine over from S1.

 

[Light in the Dark]

You also need to find a cap for that fuse upper right of the photo, without that buttoned up your alternator isn't going to be charging anything.

 

[dilligaf13]

Thanks kloppk, I'll pick some relays up.

The alternator fuse that needs a cover is this one? Looks like the PO replaced a wire on that fuse, is there a second wire that comes off this fuse where the empty butt connector is or just the one wire to the voltage regulator?

 

[Light in the Dark]

No thats the quad fuse modification, that looks to be installed correctly. Its the FU1 shown in your original photo, very top left. It should have a pop breaker above it too.

 

[DieselAddict]

Thanks kloppk, I'll pick some relays up.

The alternator fuse that needs a cover is this one? Looks like the PO replaced a wire on that fuse, is there a second wire that comes off this fuse where the empty butt connector is or just the one wire to the voltage regulator?

S14 is NOT a relay. It is a speed sensor that fits into a relay socket. You'll need to get the speed sensor and not put a relay there.

 

[Light in the Dark]

The SS member who first answered, can get you both missing items (sorry can't seem to tag Kurt by my phones browser).

 

[kloppk]

Just ignore that extra ring connector on that fuse block.

 

[dilligaf13]

Installed K12 and S14 relays (thanks kloppk) and I’m getting it to turn over at S-1 and after 5-10 seconds of starting it'll run rough for a little bit and then shut off. I’m not hearing the primary fuel pump run when S-1 is set to prime/run (aux fuel pump runs when S-1 is set to Aux prime). Looks like I’m getting 24 volts at the primary fuel pumps connector. Anything I’m missing with the primary pump/any fixes or is replacement the only option?

I’m looking to pick up a spare primary fuel pump anyway and it seems like last I read the Airtek E1074 are had to come by and the Carter P74016 is the best option. Is that still the case? Thanks

 

[Light in the Dark]

Have you put a new water fuel separator and fuel filter in? Does your primary pump have an inline filter on the inlet side? Could take that off and clean out. Also just disconnect the hard line that goes from the pump and put an empty milk jug, coffee can, etc there and with the dead crank at OFF, turn the S1 to prime, and come back to the pump side and flip the dead crank to run and see if fuel is being pumped out of the primary. Stay at that side to turn the dead crank back to OFF if it starts flowing (Because it can move a good amount of fuel in a short amount of time, more than the system really needs).

 

[dilligaf13]

I got it primed better and it seems to be starting and running fine so far (I'm guessing it had some air hiding in the lines). I'm going to change the fluid and filters and then start digging into it more. LITD, once I get the filters and fluids changed I'll try isolating the fuel pump and bypassing the inlet filter to see what my fuel flow rate, if any, is. Thanks

 

[Light in the Dark]

If its running strong, you are probably right that there was air in the system.