MEP-803A getting it to work,,,my first one!

[kloppk]

...I think this is the part you make now?

Correct, I now produce them. They are listed in the Classifieds Parts For Sale section.

 

[Zed254]

Depends on what aux fuel pump you've got and the height differential. I found that my setup would siphon after turning the pump off, resulting in overflow. I supervise aux fueling and break the hose connection at the high point when done.

Looks like he has an Airtex E1074 Aux fuel pump.

 

[m32825]

I would still test it to see if it siphons and I would supervise aux fueling operations. Floats stick, sensors fail, and overflow makes a mess. For my situation there's not enough return on investment to leave it on auto.

 

[WWRD99]

I would still test it to see if it siphons and I would supervise aux fueling operations. Floats stick, sensors fail, and overflow makes a mess. For my situation there's not enough return on investment to leave it on auto.

Completely agree...I have no idea what it's going to do...it's been running for about an hour now...had to tighten up one fitting since a tiny drip leak...looking into the filler neck and the fuel is sitting about 2 inches above the mesh of it...so far it hasn't gone any higher and not sure if it's supposed to! I'd guess about a little over half tank...it's running perfectly at about 60%...I got 4 electric space heaters blaring...gonna be a hot night!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Guyfang]

In your spare time, RTFB. The parts -24P would have showed you that S14, (Freq Trip SWITCH) was not a relay. Same with questions about Aux operation, -24 TM explains how things are SUPPOSED to work. . BUT, you are making progress! If you feel the tank gets a might too low or too full on Aux, then adjust the float. Just do it in very small increments. Too low, is not going to make a mess. Too high............................. well, I still miss the smell of diesel, but not that bad.

 

[WWRD99]

In your spare time, RTFB. The parts -24P would have showed you that S14, (Freq Trip SWITCH) was not a relay. Same with questions about Aux operation, -24 TM explains how things are SUPPOSED to work. . BUT, you are making progress! If you feel the tank gets a might too low or too full on Aux, then adjust the float. Just do it in very small increments. Too low, is not going to make a mess. Too high............................. well, I still miss the smell of diesel, but not that bad.

I hear that...I have read a good bit of the tm...it has been a big learning curve at how the tm stuff is written...very different than what I'm used to...just shut down after letting it go all night keeping the house warm and all the lights on too...hot shower this morning then I let it cool off for about 15 minutes and shut it down...the fuel level hasn't moved and is about 2 inches up from the bottom of the filler neck...I don't think it needs changed on how much is going in there...it would suck if somehow I set it to high and lost 300 gallons of fuel...and that's if I only have one open...it's hooked up to 600...yeah I'll pass on that...not like I'd let it run that long without checking it though...I'd smell that for years!! Doing a quick check of the set inside and the only thing I see is the small return line going back to the tank has done the I'm not broken but I'm gonna seep everywhere...I just had that back cover off too...oh well..I'll have to figure out what line size that is and get that replaced...I haven't ordered the list of spares yet either...I'll do that as well.
Thanks a ton for all the help in this power house!
Rich.

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[Light in the Dark]

This is what I use to replace the return lines with: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-d-nitrile-rubber-nbr-fuel-hose/27000/4348866

I buy it by the spool, but its pretty cheap either way. And there are small 1/8" vacuum tees up at the injectors, as part of this return system. Never hurts to have some on hand before replacing the line in case some break.

 

[Guyfang]

In picture #2, those two wires need to be pushed down a bit and secured, or, and this is what I did, I wrapped some inner tube or similar material around them, and secured it with wire ties. These two wires will "light up" the the night if they rub through. Its a problem spot on the set.

 

[WWRD99]

In picture #2, those two wires need to be pushed down a bit and secured, or, and this is what I did, I wrapped some inner tube or similar material around them, and secured it with wire ties. These two wires will "light up" the the night if they rub through. Its a problem spot on the set.

It took me a few to figure out which lines you were referring to!! Yeah that would be a sparks show for sure!! I've hit some fun stuff over the years in electric cars so no I will get that wrapped up! I prefer real fireworks vs surprise electrical explosions.

 

[WWRD99]

This is what I use to replace the return lines with: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-d-nitrile-rubber-nbr-fuel-hose/27000/4348866

I buy it by the spool, but its pretty cheap either way. And there are small 1/8" vacuum tees up at the injectors, as part of this return system. Never hurts to have some on hand before replacing the line in case some break.

I don't have Oreillys here at all...I see them advertised everywhere though...commercial kinda drives me nuts....why does it haver to be so loud!! Anyhow I found some 3.5mm through CRP on amazon...t's the german car mesh looking stuff. I have vacuum stuff from the car work I do already...probably more than I will ever use...trying to find the return "bung" that goes into the tank for the return line too...it was cracked up a bit...I got to take it apart again anyhow so I'm gonna try and do whatever in there now. I found a 1/2 npt 90 5/8 barbed output for the oil drain plug too...I have not changed the oil yet so that and the fuel filter are on the way....from what I found on here, getting the fuel filter off is a dangerous adventure...I'll be sure to wear my self defense kevlar gloves!

 

[Light in the Dark]

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

[Light in the Dark]

That bung is available on ebay, in the updated grey nitrile rubber. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MILITARY-M...193011?hash=item34283a0f33:g:-nYAAOSw9IdewIXl

 

[WWRD99]

That bung is available on ebay, in the updated grey nitrile rubber. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MILITARY-M...193011?hash=item34283a0f33:g:-nYAAOSw9IdewIXl

I just put this in my cart 2 minutes ago....we think alike!! I wasn't sure if it was for the return line as it is listed as tank drain...I found a good thread in here about this very part leaking everywhere...was suggested to use the nitrile compound.

 

[Light in the Dark]

That's the beauty of the TMs... here is that part from the -24P book. Notice the bung is referenced with the same callout, 38. To go further than that, the page following this will give you part number and other good info referencing for this part (and all parts in the set).

 

[WWRD99]

That's the beauty of the TMs... here is that part from the -24P book. Notice the bung is referenced with the same callout, 38. To go further than that, the page following this will give you part number and other good info referencing for this part (and all parts in the set).

View attachment 822026

Page 64!! That's how I found the part number...I see 2 number 38s....I did not notice yesterday when I had the cover off that there was a line going into the side of the tank too...I will get 2!

 

[Guyfang]

Here is another tip for TM's.

Go to the page that lists the info, like Part number and NSN. Look at item #38. Then go all the way to the right side. There are two numbers. A #1 and #2. Look up, to the heading of the both columns. The #1 is how many of the rubber "nuts" you need to fit that hole. The #2 is how MANY rubber nuts you need in the COMPLETE set. If both columns are not the same number, you know there is another place with the same part. The perfect example is #39. It shows you need 7 each for the mounting of the fuel tank inlet, but in the entire gen set, you need 362 of the same nut

 

[WWRD99]

Here is another tip for TM's.

Go to the page that lists the info, like Part number and NSN. Look at item #38. Then go all the way to the right side. There are two numbers. A #1 and #2. Look up, to the heading of the both columns. The #1 is how many of the rubber "nuts" you need to fit that hole. The #2 is how MANY rubber nuts you need in the COMPLETE set. If both columns are not the same number, you know there is another place with the same part. The perfect example is #39. It shows you need 7 each for the mounting of the fuel tank inlet, but in the entire gen set, you need 362 of the same nut

The parts lookup is one of my favorite setups in the tm...way better than what I am used to! In the auto world it would take a good bit of time to look up all the individual times a parts used on a specific part...some have done the required to do a part but it isn't very clear still...this has each part with a part number and qty on each....very nice.

 

[Guyfang]

Do not forget the NSN. Most -24P's have it listed next to the part #. For the 803A, its in the back of the book. If you punch in the NSN in the big auction web site, it is often listed, when the part # is not. And when one can do the NSN research, they can often come up with one or more different part numbers, for the same part. When you KNOW how to use the -24P right, there is more info available to you then you can see.

 

[WWRD99]

Do not forget the NSN. Most -24P's have it listed next to the part #. For the 803A, its in the back of the book. If you punch in the NSN in the big auction web site, it is often listed, when the part # is not. And when one can do the NSN research, they can often come up with one or more different part numbers, for the same part. When you KNOW how to use the -24P right, there is more info available to you then you can see.

I got that for sure....copy and paste has been my friend finding parts for sure...the only thing I struggle with is they show every nut and bolt but I haven't found a general layout pic of where each part is in the gensets...have had that problem on a 531 I've been working on since March!!

 

[jmenende]

Buy several fuses for the VR. That way, if it blows, you know you need a new VR AND you have another good fuse to go with it.

Normally, when you have a fuel gauge stuck in the over full position you need to:

1. Tap on the meter a bit.
2. Check that it is hooked up correctly.
3. Pull the sending unit out, and look at it.

Pulling the sending unit out is too much work. I roll up my sleeves and fondle both floats till they are loose. I dont have trucker forearms so I can fit them inside the tank.