• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Mep-803a high idle

P32pac

New member
23
17
3
Location
NJ
Guyfang. I did the 30 second test you requested. If you don’t mind I posted it on my YouTube channel it’s p32pac1. Thx again for the help. When the generator first started it sounded ok but then started racing again and obviously did not turn off right away. I set the stops back to where they were as well for frequency adjustment.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,755
24,064
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Guyfang. I did the 30 second test you requested. If you don’t mind I posted it on my YouTube channel it’s p32pac1. Thx again for the help. When the generator first started it sounded ok but then started racing again and obviously did not turn off right away. I set the stops back to where they were as well for frequency adjustment.
Lets start here. Have you seen this document?
Is your set adjusted this way?
 

Attachments

P32pac

New member
23
17
3
Location
NJ
Guyfang. I loosened the black knob and followed the tm you posted and still no change. Racing and smoking just like before. Im ready for your next suggestion if you have any.
 

cbisson

Well-known member
158
260
63
Location
NH
Guyfang. I loosened the black knob and followed the tm you posted and still no change. Racing and smoking just like before. Im ready for your next suggestion if you have any.
Based on the high revs, smoke, and slow shutdown I'm wondering if your not sucking engine oil into the cylinder(s) somehow? Is it over full by any chance?

Or a stuck open injector? When it starts it sounds like its only hitting on one cylinder then it runs away. No response to the governor regulating fuel delivery.
 
Last edited:

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,145
3,526
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
Just a thought over coffer at 4:30 in the morning...
A hand held inferometer may help in determining if one cylinder may be the issue by measuring temps at the exhaust manifold for each cyl and looking for one running way hotter than the others.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,755
24,064
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
It still looks like to me, that the linkage doesn't slide freely . Look at this picture. Item #4 is a special nut. It doesn't hold the linkage tight against the arm. It slides back and forth. Will it freely slide back and forth in the long hole?
 

Attachments

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,755
24,064
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Next, open up TM 9-6115-642-24, to PDF reader #165. There is a picture of the fuel shut off solenoid linkage. It gives you a measurement for how far the linkage gets screwed in. Print it out or just remember it. And check it.

Then turn to PDF reader page # 170. There is the test procedure for testing the solenoid. Do it.

Then on PDF reader page #171 is the installation procedure for the solenoid. Read it, and I would take off the solenoid and reinstall it IAW the text.

While the solenoid is disconnected, move the gov. linkage back and forth. feel free? or dose it hang up a bit?
 

jamawieb

Well-known member
1,437
556
113
Location
Ripley/TN
Your problem is the fuel rack. In your video and post you said you had fuel leaks at some the injector pumps and after you tighten them the leaks went away. Very first indication that someone removed them or at least loosen them for some purpose. Number 2 your slower than normal start and slower than normal shut down and 3rd the smoke. All indications that 1 or 2 of the pumps are not set correctly in the rack.
You need to pull each of the pumps out, then feel inside for the fuel rack, move the fuel cutoff solenoid back to see if the fuel rack moves. Keep doing this until you find the pumps that are not seated in the fuel rack correctly. Carefully get each pump in the fuel rack and start, your problem will be solved. I've had this happen several times over the years when I get them in.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,755
24,064
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Your problem is the fuel rack. In your video and post you said you had fuel leaks at some the injector pumps and after you tighten them the leaks went away. Very first indication that someone removed them or at least loosen them for some purpose. Number 2 your slower than normal start and slower than normal shut down and 3rd the smoke. All indications that 1 or 2 of the pumps are not set correctly in the rack.
You need to pull each of the pumps out, then feel inside for the fuel rack, move the fuel cutoff solenoid back to see if the fuel rack moves. Keep doing this until you find the pumps that are not seated in the fuel rack correctly. Carefully get each pump in the fuel rack and start, your problem will be solved. I've had this happen several times over the years when I get them in.
Very possible. That's where I was heading, but wanted to get every other possible reason checked. It a bit easier to check the linkage then the fuel rack. But yes, very possible.
 

P32pac

New member
23
17
3
Location
NJ
I think it’s the fuel rack as well. I will pull the injectors and and follow procedures for reinstall. I have to go out of town for a few days but as soon as I get back I will do it and let you know how I made out. Thx again.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,592
5,907
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
A quick note before you pull the injectors. If you'd like, disconnect the fuel shut off solenoid linkage at the black knob. then using your hand, twist the shutoff lever left and right through it's range of motion. You should feel very little resistance for a bit then feel a noticeable increase in resistance about 1/2 way through it's travel.
If you feel virtually no resistance evenly throughout the entire range of motion, you will most likely also find a stuck metering pump lever, or something else binding up the fuel rack.
 

P32pac

New member
23
17
3
Location
NJ
I have done that already and I did have no resistance at all except on injector #4 so I’m sure something is stuck.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,755
24,064
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
EDIT: Not stuck, rather, the IP's are not in the rack properly. Even when the IP's are not in the rack properly, the rack can "carry" the IP's along, with the engine start up.

There could be several different reasons for this to happen.

Its probably because someone did not have enough patience to get the IP's back in right. If you do not read the book, and follow suggestions that folks will give you here, its a pita.

The IP's CAN jump out of the rack. Doesn't happen often, and I have never heard of 3 doing it at once.

Rack could be bent. Doesn't happen often, as the rack was redesigned many moons ago, when we were all younger.

So if #4 feels good, do not take it out. Just do 1-3 first. Then get a feel of the rack. Loosen the IP's and move the rack, (linkage) to see if all the IP's rotate. Then give it a try.
 

P32pac

New member
23
17
3
Location
NJ
Ok I’ll leave 4 in and do the other 3 and get a feel for the rack. I’ll let you know how I make out. Hopefully I won’t have a 1200lb boat ancho. Lol
 

jamawieb

Well-known member
1,437
556
113
Location
Ripley/TN
I think it’s the fuel rack as well. I will pull the injectors and and follow procedures for reinstall. I have to go out of town for a few days but as soon as I get back I will do it and let you know how I made out. Thx again.
Ok I’ll leave 4 in and do the other 3 and get a feel for the rack. I’ll let you know how I make out. Hopefully I won’t have a 1200lb boat ancho. Lol
Don't worry, I'll buy it from you if you give up. LOL! Its nothing major but be very patient when working with the fuel rack.
 
Top