MEP-803a possible battery short

[Ray70]

Anything is better than nothing and there is no "Too Much" as far as lubricant, but I typically use about a pint per tank full, so 1-2 oz per gallon I suppose?

 

[Chainbreaker]

Thanks. Is there a general amount that everyone uses per gallon?

Should you decide to look at commercial fuel additives, I really like the all-in-one treatment approach of using Optilube XPD. In addition to adding lubricity to fuel it raises the cetane, cleans injectors & prevents fuel gelling (other mfg brands say similiar). The ratio they suggest below 32F is 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel (The label says a 1 gallon jug will treat 512 gallons if above 32F, so 256 gallons below 32F. Of course there are other Mfg's that offer similar products but Optilube has a good reputation from user reports on truck forums etc.

Of course, a home brew additive mix may be just as effective but since I want to use the same additives in my Cummins 5.9 truck, Kubota tractor & Kubota mower I stick with a commercial tried & true additive and all is good.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
Because you are up in Alaska. I would look around up there for your answer on fuel. At one time, here in Virginia, HHO and Diesel #2 were from seperate tanks. Back in the days of 3000ppm sulpher. Today, the HHO and Diesel #2 are out of the same tanks here in Virginia. We do not get such a winter blend which you would have. The thinning of Diesel #2 with Kerosine#1 and whatever for the cold will be sold for your climate. The MEP-803A can chew on lots of fuel types. You need to review all the artic specs for your use. I can keep 15W-40 oil year round here. I think the artic specs have a thinner oil weight. Artic specs are different. There are a few other members which pass through the forum from Alaska and the Yukon. Maybe make another post pointing out Alaska fuel for generator running.
add on;
Since your in Alaska. Since it is a MEP-803A, Since your load is small. I would suggest you look into buying a 5kw electric heater or something. When the MEP-803A is running. You want to run it hard and long to fully keep the cylinders clean. Figure out what your draw is for your battery banks. Maybe add to to it. You want a good draw of around 75% or higher load to keep the generator in its best shape.

 

[sigley89]

So now that I’m home I had a chance to test the battery drain. Looks like I don’t have a drain so I’m guessing the batteries just drained over time not running the generator.

one more question. I have a small oil leak from the side of the engine with the oil fill. I think it’s coming from the oil fill. Is the oil fill cap supposed to have an o-ring on it? Mine doesn’t.

Other news. I also installed Klopp’s wireless gen start on my 803. Super excited about this thing.

Daybreak. I’ll look into adding more load onto the generator to bring it up to 75%.

I appreciate everyone’s inputs and help. I’m glad this forum exists and that the people on it are so helpful.

 

[Guyfang]

If you look at TM9-2815-253-24P, Figure 7, Item # 4, you will see that yes, the dipstick should have an O-Ring.

 

[sigley89]

If you look at TM9-2815-253-24P, Figure 7, Item # 4, you will see that yes, the dipstick should have an O-Ring.

Thanks. I assumed there should be one. I’ll have to dig through my o-rings to see if I have one that’ll fit.

 

[Billwardak]

use no 1 heating fuel. if your going to be using a toyo especially. no 2 works if your tank is buried but not for a toyo. I am in Fairbanks.

 

[Billwardak]

also the arctic heater on your generator is a esper (like a webasto) with it you wont need a toyo. it has settings to preheat below 40 above.

 

[Ray70]

On your oil cap, that should have an O-ring too. Both the dipstick and screw-on oil cap have O-rings.

 

[Louis9113]

I’ve got a similar situation, two new batteries about a month ago. This week, the unit is dead, charge one battery yesterday, another today. On the second battery, the charger says “swap clamps” like the polarity is reversed on the battery. I will investigate more this weekend.

 

[WWRD99]

I’ve got a similar situation, two new batteries about a month ago. This week, the unit is dead, charge one battery yesterday, another today. On the second battery, the charger says “swap clamps” like the polarity is reversed on the battery. I will investigate more this weekend.

If it says swap clamps you probably have a 12 volt charger and the batteries still have the cables hooked up to the genset...unhook them and charge away.

 

[Louis9113]

If it says swap clamps you probably have a 12 volt charger and the batteries still have the cables hooked up to the genset...unhook them and charge away.

I unhooked all cables from the terminal posts before I charged the first battery.

 

[WWRD99]

I unhooked all cables from the terminal posts before I charged the first battery.

Ok, I've had that problem in the past with the new style computer load testing chargers that they sell mostly now with both hooked up.

 

[Louis9113]

Ok, I've had that problem in the past with the new style computer load testing chargers that they sell mostly now with both hooked up.

I wondered that. It’s a cheap 8 amp $35 Schumacher from the box store. I’m going to take the battery to the Interstate Battery dealer tomorrow and let him test it.

 

[WWRD99]

I wondered that. It’s a cheap 8 amp $35 Schumacher from the box store. I’m going to take the battery to the Interstate Battery dealer tomorrow and let him test it.

The amp size doesn't matter really...mine is a 2 or 6 amp switch one from tractor supply but puts out volts no matter what...slow charge is the best charge...the battery could be shorted out though.