MEP-803a runs great, makes power, circuit interrupter and battle short inoperable

[mingram]

So your AC circuit interrupter switch DOES work? The light just doesn't work for it? (the little light directly above the switch). I don't think I will be that lucky with mine. My test lights do work.

NewEra, the switch does work, it is the push to test light that does not work. I did the continuity test on the switch and it worked fine. When i hooked it up to the house and closed the circuit the lugs were hot and had plenty of current ended up pushing 48 amps with the AC's running. The system ran the house for 40 mins no issues before i put it away.

 

[mingram]

Hi M. Are you just trying to test voltage regulator? Looks like your getting way into this. Is something not working, or are you just pre testing before it is hooked to house? When I tested my 802, I just put load on the lugs in 120/240 mode and ran it for a while.

dependable, I was just trying to clean up all the bits and bobs that did not work. The lights are all that is left. I could not load test until the electrician was here to test with me and make sure i had wired it right. He was actually pretty jealous of the generator especially as i only paid $700 for it plus $400 to ship from georgia. i have about $400 in parts, filters and fluids so far. I am very happy with it. The new faria gauges are great.
m

 

[mingram]

NewEra, the switch does work, it is the push to test light that does not work. I did the continuity test on the switch and it worked fine. When i hooked it up to the house and closed the circuit the lugs were hot and had plenty of current ended up pushing 48 amps with the AC's running. The system ran the house for 40 mins no issues before i put it away.

NewEra,
just thought of something for you to test. When you check you lugs are you getting voltage to them. I assume you are using 120/240volt, single phase on the inside control box dial setting, and L1,L3,single phase on the panel setting voltage dial. You should have about 110volts on each of the L1 and L3 if you use a multimeter, measure between N and L1 and N and L3. Make sure both the dials sync up. If you set it up as 120 volts on the two dials you would have about 60 on each of the L1 and L3.
good luck.
m

 

[zarathustra]

The AC interrupt switch is a weird switch. It is not a normal on-off-on switch. That's why it cost hundreds of dollars new. It is actually two switches in one housing.
Pushing the switch up causes one side of the switch to operate, and pushing it down causes the other side to operate.

I've seen situations where the switch would vibrate and then open or just open under vibration and test OK when the unit was off. If the AC interrupt switch does not work properly then one will never actuate the contactor and never get power out of the unit even though the convenience receptacles are working just fine

 

[Guyfang]

yes that is the next step i believe. The ac interrupt push to test is failing to light up as is the battle short push to test. The system does come up and is running well small fluctuations at the voltage and hertz less than 2 hertz and 5 volts but i have not tested loading up the lugs yet, do that tomorrow. I wanted to make sure they are getting power and was concerned that the ac interrupt circuit is not working. The two 10 amp 110v courtesy outlets are powered up.
i thought i would test the voltage regulator next before doing the generator testing Thursday. I would like the push to test systems to work but if i have load of the lugs tomorrow it will be less of an issue.
martin

People,

Look at the schematic. DS-6, (AC circuit interrupter light) and DS-7, (Battle short light) both do not press to test. What do both circuits have in common? R15, that's what. Do you have voltage at R15, input side? Voltage on Output side of R15, and from there to FIRST, pin 1 of DS-6, and then in series, to pin 1 of DS-7? When two different functions stop working at the same time, always look at what they have in common. That can only be ground, or input voltage. The solder connections on the diodes and resistors on the panel where R15 is located at, are often no good if someone has "repaired" it.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
It could even be easier than that.
Check to see if somebody scavenged the little bulbs in the push-to-test units.

 

[Guyfang]

If the bulbs are gone, the socket and screw on cap would be loose. Have you tested the bulbs? I also have seen several times, where someone put in A.C. bulbs. They look the same, and if you don't eyeball them, its tough to tell the difference. That one kept me stumped for a bit, its what I get for being in a hurry.

 

[TacMac2012]

Finally messed with this generator some more.... Turns out the bulb for the Battle short switch was burned out, so that switch functions. The generator all the sudden started working yesterday, I hooked it up to the house and ran it a couple hours, now today it is back to not working...

I tested the AC circuit switch (multiple times) and it ALWAYS tests good. I wish I knew what voltage was supposed to be at a given terminal while running, I'd just make a jumper wire to test it myself, the TM's are a pain to search through on the computer...

 

[TacMac2012]

I have ~25 volts on terminal 3 (and 2 since they are connected internally in the switch) when it is running. I NEVER get 25v on either terminal 5 or 6 when flipping the switch though. Not sure if it is supposed to or not...

 

[Guyfang]

Finally messed with this generator some more.... Turns out the bulb for the Battle short switch was burned out, so that switch functions. The generator all the sudden started working yesterday, I hooked it up to the house and ran it a couple hours, now today it is back to not working...

I tested the AC circuit switch (multiple times) and it ALWAYS tests good. I wish I knew what voltage was supposed to be at a given terminal while running, I'd just make a jumper wire to test it myself, the TM's are a pain to search through on the computer...

Go back to post # 25. Read it. If the switch tests good, it can only be the light, or K-1. Message #25 tells you the DS-6, the AC interrupt light, pin one, (1) should always have 24 volts when the S-1 is in the run position. Always. it's the press to test wire. Pin three, (3) is the path to ground, that allows the light to work when its pressed, to test. A good tip to always remember is any wire number that has 100 in it, is a ground wire. Pin two, (2) is the wire that lights up when you press the S-5 AC interrupt switch to the ON position. The voltage that lights up the DS-6, comes from the K-1 contacts eleven, (11) and twelve, (12). So if you have no voltage to DS-6, pin 2, when the output lugs are hot, then the K-1 contacts are bad. Happens. A lot. If you press the S-5 into the on position, and the K-1 does not close, mesure at the K-1 terminals X and Y. X should be the input, (24 volts) and if you have input and output, the K-1 contactor should work. You can also test the K-1 contactor. There is a test procedure in the manual. The K-1 contactor often has problems. There are any number of threads on the K-1, and how to get it to work, when you find it rusted up. Read them. Test the K-1. If its a hassle to use the manuals in your computer, then print out the pages you need to use.