MEP-803A Spare Parts

[SalmonSlayer]

Hi all, First post here and after reading a lot I can see that I've come to the right place. I have recently acquired a fairly low hour(after reset) 803A. getting ready to ship it to a very remote area in Alaska and want to make sure i have any and all spare parts i could possibly need. other than the obvious fan belt ,injectors, relays...I'm just not sure of what else. Genset currently runs perfectly and has just over 30 hours since reset i just want to make sure i have all my bases covered. Any help would be appreciated.

And first thing tomorrow going to see if the Fuse mod has been done for the Voltage regulator

Thanks in Advance

 

[Light in the Dark]

Welcome to SS. Would benefit us greatly if you gave us an inventory of what you already consider 'covered bases', so we dont double work. I have a number of ideas of things to list, but would be nice to get a baseline. I am sure the folks here can get you squared away.

 

[SalmonSlayer]

I don't know what the "problem areas" are. I am currently ready to order a couple back up relays and that one stupid expensive "switch". Voltage regulator, spare injector and pump, fan belt, and some various fuses. I also have 2 external fuel filters I'm going to be running my diesel through before it gets to the onboard one. I don't want to go overboard with a bunch of unnecessary parts however i want to make sure that i won't have a breakdown that can't be fixed.

 

[Farmitall]

Thermostats & gaskets, flex hoses, alternator, starter, return line hose, filters, fuel pump.

I can't imagine that you'd need much more that couldn't be ordered and shipped.....even to a remote spot.....everything else is getting there somehow.

 

[SalmonSlayer]

Thanks and yes i can get stuff shipped there but it can sometimes take weeks. Even amazon prime can take weeks to get there and I can't afford to be down that long. None of the big shipping carriers that we all use will deliver out there so i have to have parts flown in. a couple times a year i make a big load that gets barged in to where i am. It's cheaper for me to just make sure I have it with me when I load the container.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
Yes, you are at the right place.

Go to this thread and gather what filters you want to keep on hand.

MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts

The 2nd post has quick links to many things to know about.

Since it has been RESET, it should have the quad winding fuse mod.

I would suggest that you fire the unit up and put a good load on it. Just to ensure it will operate before you put into that distant service site.

30 hours? John Deere break in oil, for break-in. The switch to a good artic grade diesel service oil for your climate. download all the TM's, batteries?, aux fuel line? drum adaptor? operating location? sheltered? standard exhaust sizing is 1 1/4" thread for re-directing exhaust and such.

The unit is able to gobble all types of fuels, you might need to add some fuel lubricant if the artic diesel is really a light #1, that will depend on your local artic temps and type of fuel used. You would gather this info from the final site area fuel supplier. Test the coolant in your unit to ensure it is ready for your running climate.

 

[rosco]

Where are you going in Alaska? It was +38 along the Richardson Hwy today, S of Fairbanks. Rather hot for us, but there is no Global Warming. Still, I have learned that the only average we have is, there isn't one! Just be ready.

Any where in the Interior, this time of year, there should be only #1 fuel in it. Chemically treated fuel doesn't cut it!

 

[Bmxenbrett]

Filters filter and more filters (there are kits on ebay), return lines, the well nut. Get rhe ultimate well nut. I have had one diode in the pannel make the set not produce power. There about $4 for 10 shipped on ebay.

Becids hard parts like that i would get a 5gal bucket of rotella engine oil, 1gal of 2 stroke to mix in the diesel and a few jugs of diesel antigel and anti algee.

Some parts of Alaska can be warmer than were i am in NY. But im 2hrs from NYC...i envy you not having to see people.

 

[SalmonSlayer]

Filters filter and more filters (there are kits on ebay), return lines, the well nut. Get rhe ultimate well nut. I have had one diode in the pannel make the set not produce power. There about $4 for 10 shipped on ebay..

to which diodes are you referring? I'm still pretty new to this but i have all the TM's and can look up parts but I'm not really sure about everything I'm looking at behind the panel LOL .

 

[SalmonSlayer]

Where are you going in Alaska? It was +38 along the Richardson Hwy today, S of Fairbanks. Rather hot for us, but there is no Global Warming. Still, I have learned that the only average we have is, there isn't one! Just be ready.

Any where in the Interior, this time of year, there should be only #1 fuel in it. Chemically treated fuel doesn't cut it!

Bristol Bay, just outside Dillingham. This will be a strictly summer operation during the Salmon season so i figure #2 Diesel should be fine as it won't be getting below probably +45 on the coolest days.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,

OK,
You have a MEP-803A which is 10kw.
The main thing that you will want to watch is the loading of the unit. 10kw is a lot of load. The MEP-803A is known as sloppy precision. It is a old diesel design. They like to be used at er.. say 50% and higher. Long light loading will get you into a wet stacking condition. Which can be corrected with some 100% loading to clean it up.

If your going to be storing fuel, I would talk to the people in that area with fuel type and what preservative has been working for them. Then again, with a higher concentrate of #1, it might not be a long term storage issue too. Dunno those things here in the lower 48.

Listen too you fellow neighbors up in Alaska for oil type and weight, and fuel storage and type. The only ones with true knowledge will be from folks up there.

 

[Bmxenbrett]

to which diodes are you referring? I'm still pretty new to this but i have all the TM's and can look up parts but I'm not really sure about everything I'm looking at behind the panel LOL .

1N5406 type that into ebay.

 

[SalmonSlayer]

Great advice all around. Break in oil was reccomended, at what point are you past break in and on to normal operation? Also the well nut...Im going to be running with a roughly 160 gallon Aux. fuel tank so won't that bypass the onboard tank completely?

 

[Farmitall]

Great advice all around. Break in oil was reccomended, at what point are you past break in and on to normal operation? Also the well nut...Im going to be running with a roughly 160 gallon Aux. fuel tank so won't that bypass the onboard tank completely?

Not unless you physically bypass it, and that has drawbacks.

Normally, the generator gets its fuel from the onboard tank, which is kept full by the second fuel pump mounted in the compartment above the tank under the panel. That pump is controlled by a high/low fuel switch in the tank. Notice the positions on the prime/run switch?

Reading the operator's manual would be a very, very good idea before you get out in the boonies.....seriously. Printing a hard copy or two of the manuals to have with you would be an excellent idea.
I wouldn't go to a remote location without them.

 

[Guyfang]

I have kept my distance, because everyone is doing a good job with suggestions, and sometimes too many cooks DO spoil the broth. But the last posts from Mike and Farmitall are really very important. For all I know, you may have been born there and know all the tricks of the trade, to living and getting by in Alaska. But if not, like Mike said, get to know the folks up there. The only dumb question, is the question not asked.

Farmitall's comment about reading the books, and printing out a copy, is paramount. If you know how it's supposed to work, when it's supposed to do what, and why, troubleshooting is much easyer. And if this set is supposed to bring light into your life up there, when the light goes out, so will your manuals, on a laptop or computer. I used to laugh and laugh at soldiers when their E-TM's turned off, when the battery went south for the winter. I ALLWAYS had a hard copy, of EVERY TM I needed. Yes, I had a laptop also. And used it. But when we were not in the shop, in the boondocks, I only used my hard copys. Pages in document protectors.

So take it for what it's worth. It's always better to have, and not need, then to need, and not have.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,

AUX Fuel source usage.

The tank on board is known as a day tank. When connected to a AUX fuel source, and selected by the S1 switch. When the day tank gets low, it turns on the 2nd fuel pump, known as the AUX fuel pump in the front next to the fill neck, this runs and fills the day tank to about 80% full and shuts off. This will continue this method until the AUX fuel source is empty. Even with the unit being reset, and your wanting to use this option. You really need to test this out now. It is easier to do when you have the means around you than being at a remote site.

There are multiple fuel level sensors in the tank. 1 for the fuel gauge, and 1 for the low fuel level and high fuel level for the AUX fuel system. Having a siphon hose, multiple fuel cans, AUX fuel hose and fuel source, you will be able to accomplish this.

Hook up AUX fuel hose and source, start unit with AUX fuel selected on S1, as unit is running, siphon fuel out into a 5 gallon can, watch the fuel level gauge, watch and listen to unit, keep siphoning out until you see the AUX fuel pump turn on, stop siphoning, watch fuel tank fill up, watch gauge, watch to where the AUX fuel pump turns off. Hopefully it all runs as it should. If it doesn't, you will need to correct this now before you go to remote site.

Break-in oil = usually around 100 hours of good usage, then drain and fill with normal diesel oil for your environment.

 

[Zed254]

Fuel pumps: get yourself a couple of these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e1074 - Airtex E1074. You will also need a G-17 fuel filter for each pump: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=293509&jsn=253 . Details here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?151124-MEP-8xx-series-fuel-pump

 

[SalmonSlayer]

Sounds good guys, thanks again for all the advice. will be setting up and testing everything probably within the next month or so before i get things ready to ship

 

[Farmitall]

Sounds good guys, thanks again for all the advice. will be setting up and testing everything probably within the next month or so before i get things ready to ship

Please don't leave for the boonies without a hard copy of the manuals. Its difficult enough in the lower 48 obtaining things....up there will be rough.

 

[Light in the Dark]

One thing you need to do, especially with the infrequent nature you indicated you will run it, is to RODENT PROOF it! There are (3) holes in the bottom of the integrated skid, which need to be blocked (But still allow air through). Also for your installation, you might want to cover the side air inlets and something more robust than the fabric boot where the wiring goes in (like a metal plate with a locking connecter to stop down tight on the wiring.

You should also consider taking the roof section over the operator control box, to make sure nothing has already gotten in!