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MEP-803A won't start

M

mesias

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OK... each injector pump has two nuts, one for the injector pipe and another below it (delivery valve holder). If I loosen only the pipe and crank the engine from S1 nothing comes out. Only when I loosen the nut below then some fuel is spilled. Is this expected? Do I need to loosen both nuts? The fuel never rushed out or sprayed out, it just flowed.
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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mesias said:
OK... each injector pump has two nuts, one for the injector pipe and another below it (delivery valve holder). If I loosen only the pipe and crank the engine from S1 nothing comes out. Only when I loosen the nut below then some fuel is spilled. Is this expected? Do I need to loosen both nuts? The fuel never rushed out or sprayed out, it just flowed.
Click to expand...
If you loosen the fuel delivery line to the IP, and fuel comes out, then tighten it back up and loosen the line to the injector, and nothing comes out, then the IP is not working. This is a very common fault for sets that have not been run in a long time. What you need to do is pull the IP's out, take them apart, and soak them in something to take the diesel lacquer off, and put them back together. Then reinstall. Having said that, only remove ONE IP at a time. Putting them back in right, into the fuel rail can be a PITA. You have to take your time and do it right. Beginners problem, someone removes them all, and then can not get them back in right, or it takes 40 forever's to get them in right. There are only about 1,000,000,000 threads from folks who have found this out. Its really not hard, but requires patience.
 
M

mesias

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I pulled a set today... the pump doesn't look gummed up but I can't check the inside. The injector is filthy, but it looks ok... I'm not sure how the tip looked when new. I'm soaking them submerged in Diesel Kleen but I'm not sure how to test them afterwards. Here are some pics...

20200506_195010.jpg 20200506_195033.jpg
 
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A

America

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I bet there’s more corrosion and grime in this set you have. In my opinion these sets need to be worked through pretty deeply when you get them. I think you almost have to have mechanical know how to keep these running. There a far cry from the reliability of modern continuous run rated generators. I just feel like no one says on here enough that these 803a and 802a have lots of age related problems that will plague you. I mean if your set was made 10 years ago, it doesn’t matter if the set only has a few hours on it that set will be prone to little failures that are endless. Sometimes it seems like people on here expect these sets to run like new. If your buying these units to just set by your house and run with no mechanical knowledge and maintenance you will be in for a rude awaking. Oh and I’m not saying the OP isn’t mechanically inclined this is for the people who aren’t. Nothing wrong with not being good with tools, just get a new generator problem solved.
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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The IP's can be taken apart. Just take a look at one, and its easy to do. Then soak them. This is a common problem with any equipment that has sat for long time periods. But certinly not a show stopper.
 
R

Ray70

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Actually Uniquify, you nailed it! The metering pump in the picture is in fact stuck in the compressed position, I can tell right away!
Mesias, you need to clean or rebuild you metering pumps for starters, then maybe check the injectors as well.
The injectors have 4 TINY holes around the tip, if they are clogged it won't spray, or if the pintle is stuck it will either not pop open or it will stay open.
 
M

mesias

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What I could put apart for the injector pump it looks quite well/clean. The spring is not stuck, I can push it in and it moves. I haven't been able to pull it apart since I don't have a tool that can compress the spring to release the washer that keeps it in place. The lever moves but not freely, it has resistance I guess from the force of the spring.
The injectors are not in good shape, I can't see the holes in the tip. I took them to a local shop for cleaning but they estimated between $75 and $100 for getting them back in shape. For that price I buy new ones off ebay. I'm going to disassemble them first and see if I can rebuild them.

20200508_183237.jpg
 
R

Ray70

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FYI, the holes are almost microscopic, so they are difficult to see without magnification.
A single strand of fine wire can b used to clean the holes, but magnification is almost mandatory.... if your eyes are aging like mine!
 
U

uniquify

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Hopefully soaking the injectors will help. Seems like you're on the right track.

Your IP looks different from the others I've seen (Lister Petter / Stanadyne). Can you share the mfg and model# from yours?
 
M

mciikurzroot

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REF: the MPU set up.. what every one has offerd is correct, however, the tip of the MPU should hit onto the top of a flywheel tooth when your setting this up, for that you might well have to use some tool of your choice to move a "tooth" into the center area of your target range. Most often a larger flat blade screwdriver will be a good fulcrum tool to accomplish this. A near sure check of the operation of the MPU is go back and check with the mpu removed for open/close of the MPU, set up your meter so you can read between the two output wires, then pass over anything steel over the MPU tip, you will or should expect to see the opening and closing of the MPU being reflected on your meter scale, in this instance or check an analog type meter is the very best to observe this operation, digital meters take a frustrating time to scale the event onto the display screen.
Now earlier you were trying to read the output up on or near one of the relay landing points, you were cautioned to first go directly to the mpu and read it at the mpu, now that we have a confirmed good mpu now go on upstream following the wiring and see if you keep your signal along the wiring route.
Press on, best of luck: mac/mc
 
M

mesias

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Injector are now clean... except one. The nozzle of one of the injectors has ONE hole clogged and I can't clear it. I have it submerged in Diesel Kleen for days in this small ultrasonic machine but the sucker is not budging. I tried also a small brass wire but it is too flimsy for the task. The acetone from the a carburetor cleaner can is not doing anything either. Is there any other stronger fluid that can help? I heard about naphtha...

About installing back the IP, the TM is a bit confusing. The tappet stayed in the engine so this is all about place it back in and turn it counter-clockwise? The lever in the IP is supposed to be all the way to the left, right? Is the slot in governor rack visible thru the IP hole?

Sorry for sending so many questions in one shot... Thank you very much for all your help!
 
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