Continuing…
I found a generator head at auction in Nevada. From the pictures it looked like it was in good condition. I won and had it shipped to North Carolina. It arrived yesterday where we had the trucking company use a pallet jack to put it on the bed of our pickup truck; they had a lift-gate.
Today we moved the stator and rotor from the pickup to a section of Baker staging. The old head is still in the generator waiting to be removed.
I learned that VeriTread and UShip, trucking quote services encouraged by Ritchie Brothers, are quite expensive. Even the lowest quote is inflated by a couple hundred dollars, presumably broker fees. It’s far cheaper to get your own quotes from big name truckers. The lowest quote via the two websites sponsored by Ritchie Brothers was $460. I got it shipped for $155 via YRC.
Note: I’ve read several posts here where folk were hoping to find the elusive two wires that would allow them to convert this stator to single phase. Now that I’ve had a good look at a disassembled head I can tell you that’s not possible. It simply isn’t designed for single phase. It would have to be rewound and even then the laminations may not support it.
I have been saying this since I joined the forum. People just will not want to believe. You will see this silly question over, and over, and over again. I hate to call it silly, because if its someone new, its not silly. But there are people who will simply not let this issue die. It can not be done.
Questions:
How does one insert the rotor into the stater? There’s a jig in the TM, but I don’t have one.
I always bolted the rotor to the engine, and carefully inserted the Stator onto the rotor. Even the Army, doesn't have a jig. Or at least I never saw one. The words, "Take your time!" are to be kept in mind when doing this job. The jig is simple enough to be made, but I would say not worth the time and money to do just one job.
I once saw a few guys who took the Stator, removed the bearing cup, tipped the stater up on its end, slowly let the rotor down into the stater with a ratchet strap, and then when the rotor was in, tipped it back over. Replaced the bearing cup, and then sled the stater/rotor into the set, mated up the flex plate and then the bolts holding the bell housings. It worked for them. I would not do it that way, but who am I to tell someone there way worked, but is wrong? Or better said, "not my way".
The generator head is affixed to the engine bell housing with a series of bolts that go around the rim in series. I can reach the majority of them with an extension on my socket set. How does one reach the bottom three or four?
Its not easy. You will learn to use new words that are not to be repeated in church. After doing it a few times, its not all that hard. That's why I simply removed the belt screen, took the mounting bolts out of the flex plate and slide the whole main gen out of the set. Then you have a bit more room to move. Remember when I mentioned removing the box? I always found it much easier to do it that way. Its a bit more work, but I was mostly working alone with a load sound system providing good vibes. If I have not explained this well enough for you to understand what I am saying, bump me and I will try and explain it differently.
I never saw a main gen come this way. It was always put together, with a steal bar bolted across the bell housing and flex plate, so it would not move an inch. This way is much more time consuming.
Pictures:
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