• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Mep-804a no output. With video

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,766
24,074
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Open up the control panel and see it the quad circuit fuse is blown. If you do not know what that is, open the control panel and take a picture. We can work from there.

No use turning the Freq control knob. The freq control is the knob and cable under the control panel, right side.
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,766
24,074
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
The picture in post 4 is the one you want. The item in post 5 is called a Ammeter shunt. Its not a fuse, persay. There is another fuse in the control panel, FU1, but as you know its for the DC side of the house.

So test the fuse shown in post 4. If its bad, and you replace it, and it blows again, DO NOT, repeat, DO NOT fool with it any longer. Your volt regulator is bad. Do not under any circumstances jump that fuse. You will destroy your windings in the excitor/windings.
 

MAdams

Active member
380
132
43
Location
San Dimas, CA
The fuse in post #4 ohms out as good. I did not start the generator but with S1 in the run position there is no voltage at the fuse.
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,145
3,526
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
The fuse in post #4 ohms out as good. I did not start the generator but with S1 in the run position there is no voltage at the fuse.
Did you check for AC voltage across pins 1 & 3 of the regulator?
You can measure the same points at pins F & J on the Diagnostic connector instead.
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,766
24,074
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
With the S-1 in the run position, you should not get any voltage at the fuse, Only when you start it, hold it in the start position and the starter has been locked out, should there be voltage at the fuse. If you have voltage at the fuse, then follow in KLOPPK's message # 8.
 

MAdams

Active member
380
132
43
Location
San Dimas, CA
I'm only getting 1.2vac on both sides of the fuse. I double checked the mag pickup. It reads 800omhs and 2.5vac while using the dead crank switch
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,766
24,074
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Do you have 24 volts on pin 7 of the S-1 start switch, while holding it in the start position? That is the wire needed to flash the fields. That is wire number 190A.
 

MAdams

Active member
380
132
43
Location
San Dimas, CA
I do get 24vdc on pin 7 when S1 is held in start. Also, with the battle short switch off, I get 11v at the fuse when holding S1 in start. With battle short on, I get no voltage at the fuse
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,766
24,074
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Then get the schematic out and follow the path. From pin 7 to.......................

Get someone to help, it easier then doing it yourself.
 

MAdams

Active member
380
132
43
Location
San Dimas, CA
Wire 190 goes from S1 to K15 relay. I swapped the relays around but still no voltage at the fuse.

The fuse wire is 141. It also goes to K15 and also goes to TB8 (in pic) which then 141 turns into a large diameter wire and goes directly to the generator.

 

MAdams

Active member
380
132
43
Location
San Dimas, CA
K15 has a diode that initially looks out is place but it's shown on the TM. It goes to K12 and checks out .480 volt on my dvom.

After all that, still only 11v at the fuse when S1 is held on start

 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,766
24,074
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
11 volts is enough to light off the main gen. If you have voltage at TB-8 then you need to pull off the end bell housing ad look there.
 
Top