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MEP-816 Injection pump

dtruex

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Trying to get a new to me MEP-816a to pump fuel from the injection pump. I have fuel in the pump, just nothing coming out as it cranks. I took the timing cover on the pump off and am confused by the timing marks. Most of the window is taken up by a part on the right hand side of the window that does not rotate as I bump the engine over. It has a horizontal line on it. There is a part to the left hand side of the window that does rotate as I bump the engine over so I'm thinking it should have a mark that lines up with the stationary mark. I've been looking for about an hour but I can't find any marks on the part that rotates.

Should there be a mark on the left hand part that is rotating? Should the part that is not rotating be rotating? Is there a coupling that has broken?

Anything else I should look for? I have the solenoid in the injection pump wired to 24V and the external stop lever disconnected and pushed towards the control panel.

Thanks

Don
 

m-35tom

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isn't that a 400 hz unit? not really worth anything in the civ world, but:
left part is the govenor cage, right side is advancer unit. probably has stuck plungers, is it a db4 i think? john deere 5.9 engine? i have some NEW pumps for that! cheap! do you have low pressure fuel to it? what is the booster pump pressure? if you are a really good mechanic, you can take it apart and clean it, otherwise $300+ to a shop. (or new pump)
tom
 
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Suprman

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The 400 hz units are good for parts to fix up a 60hz same kW rated model. Engine is usually the same as are panels, fuel tank, switches and most gauges. The regulator is different as is the gen head though.
 

dtruex

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I'm going to rectify it into DC to power an electronics project I'm working on so the 400Hz doesn't matter and they are a lot cheaper. I might take you up on the 60Hz gen head for when I'm done with it.

It is a John Deere 6059T 5.9 engine with a DB4 pump. There seems to be a lot of info on the DB2 but not much on the DB4. I did find one manual that said they are the same except for the number of plungers (4 for the DB4, 2 for the DB2). Does anyone know if a seal kit for the DB2 will work for the DB4? I'll probably tear into this weekend so I guess we'll find out if I'm a decent mechanic or not.

The pump housing was full of fuel, I'll have to fab something to measure the booster pump pressure.

Thanks again for the responses.
 

m-35tom

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so you probably have a DB4-627-**** read the manual and look at the pictures, you don't need to take it completely apart, leave the drive shaft in it if it turns easily. but first diagnose it more, booster pump pressure is important.

linkage under top cover must be able to move freely for booster pump to charge the pressure pump (4 roller driven pistons)
 
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m-35tom

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i was reading the db manual to refresh since i am repairing a db4 myself and noticed it said to crank the engine with fuel turned off to prime the pump, then try to start. it also says to bleed each injector line one at a time. when you crank the engine, the booster pump still pumps fuel and it will come out the return port, even with pump in stop position.
tom
 

dtruex

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Nashville/TN
Thanks Tom. Did not know about cranking with the run solenoid off so I'll give that a try this weekend. I know the pump housing is full of fuel and the return valve is not stuck but I did not verify that it was pushing thru the return valve. Linkage seemed free, in fact nothing in the top of the pump looked gumed up or stuck.

FWIW info on the tag is:
Pump model number: K2 DB4-4807
RMP: 1800
Serial number: 7303139
manufacture Number: RE-40409

Thanks

Don
 
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