I checked the section numbers against my manual and it doesn't match up (there are two different versions of the manual out there, data is the same but it's arranged differently) so I don't know what P17 and A8 are. I assume the reading was intended to be taken directly across the two gauge terminals. After disconnecting the wires I read 55ohms. Noticing the values changing I rubbed the probe against the terminals and was able to raise the value to 70ohms. Not the 100 you mentioned. Bad gauge??? If I do need a replacement, then I don't know where to source one because I have yet to find somebody parting a genny out. Only option I know is to use the digital gauges off Ebay, but they read amps and not watts. Although amps might be more correct, watts is easier to understand.
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MEP-831a Troubleshooting
- Thread starter DieselAddict
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The meter could be off. I'll take a reading on one of mine as a sanity check.
Dewie38
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100 ohms is what you should read right at the terminals on the meter. With wires disconnected
If you're not getting that reading then you probably have a bad meter.
Meter drawing number 98-19746 note 3 says 100 ohms max.
Is your actuator closing when you shut it the set down, then when the engine comes to almost a complete stop the actuator pops off?
Yes turning the gain clockwise is a typo it should say if the magnet grabs the target during transient reduce the gain.
If you're not getting that reading then you probably have a bad meter.
Meter drawing number 98-19746 note 3 says 100 ohms max.
Is your actuator closing when you shut it the set down, then when the engine comes to almost a complete stop the actuator pops off?
Yes turning the gain clockwise is a typo it should say if the magnet grabs the target during transient reduce the gain.
R Racing
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Got my missing 9mm x 1.25 nut today. I looked in the TM but didn't see a torque spec for it. Just 8 mm and 10 mm . Anyone replace a head gasket yet ?
Yes, I replaced mine, very easy job. How far along are you? If you don't have the head off, I can give you some additonal pointers.
A while back I had uploaded the engine service manual here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ntial-buyers&p=1656270&viewfull=1#post1656270 See page 23 in the manual.
Rocker arm: 200-230kgcm or 14.5-16.6lbft
Head bolts: 130-150kgcm or 9.4-10.8lbft (oil threads)
Head nuts: 420-460kgcm or 30.4-33.3lbft (oil threads)
A while back I had uploaded the engine service manual here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ntial-buyers&p=1656270&viewfull=1#post1656270 See page 23 in the manual.
Rocker arm: 200-230kgcm or 14.5-16.6lbft
Head bolts: 130-150kgcm or 9.4-10.8lbft (oil threads)
Head nuts: 420-460kgcm or 30.4-33.3lbft (oil threads)
R Racing
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Thank you Cord !!!
R Racing
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Well I got unit 2 up and running . But it runs for about a min then the governor slaps the magnet and shuts down ? At 1 point I had it running for about 5 min. But it seemed slow in rpm. Went to fire up unit 1 and the E stop was reading open . So I sprayed some wd40 in the contacts and it then worked. So ultimately
I need 2 e stops. I went to replace the voltage adjust pot on unit 2 and sat it down and never found where I put it. Just 1 of them days I guess ? LOL Also found that the fuel hose between the filler and tank was broken on unit 2 and when it was running the return line poured the fuel strait thru the hole on to the ground.
I need 2 e stops. I went to replace the voltage adjust pot on unit 2 and sat it down and never found where I put it. Just 1 of them days I guess ? LOL Also found that the fuel hose between the filler and tank was broken on unit 2 and when it was running the return line poured the fuel strait thru the hole on to the ground.
R Racing
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I had a heck of a time finding 2 3/4 hose for the filler but finally did. Also ordered a few new e stop buttons with the twist lock resets. Then I can get back on unit 2 to see why its not coming up to speed. Also need to sores the exhaust bellow for it as well. baby steps lol. Oh and I did find my voltage adjust pot under my air compressor today? not a clue how it got there ?? LOL
Post where you found the hose. I have a leak on mine that I thought was the sending unit but it could very well be the hose.
Can anybody tell me how to adjust this unit so it'll shut down?
Also, how is the hardware configured for the lid hold-opens? The pin is exactly the same size as the hole so it just slides through.
Can anybody tell me how to adjust this unit so it'll shut down?
Also, how is the hardware configured for the lid hold-opens? The pin is exactly the same size as the hole so it just slides through.
Dewie38
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Cord,
Lift up on the actuator arm and push in the pin as if you were going to rope start the set
Now, make a fist and hit the top of the actuator lever (as if you were pounding on a desk)
Pull up slightly on the actuator arm so the pin pops back out, now start your set and see if it shuts down.
There are two set screws inside the actuator on the rod that goes through the side of it, the set screws are screwed onto the flat part of the rod, some time they loosen up and if the actuator slams to full fuel when you start the set the arm pivots.
If your set does shut down, then to verify the arm is pivoting, with the set shut down ,yank up on the actuator arm (to full fuel) and then try starting and stopping your set again.
Remember all this is assuming you have the governing system setup right and you still have shut down problems.
Lift up on the actuator arm and push in the pin as if you were going to rope start the set
Now, make a fist and hit the top of the actuator lever (as if you were pounding on a desk)
Pull up slightly on the actuator arm so the pin pops back out, now start your set and see if it shuts down.
There are two set screws inside the actuator on the rod that goes through the side of it, the set screws are screwed onto the flat part of the rod, some time they loosen up and if the actuator slams to full fuel when you start the set the arm pivots.
If your set does shut down, then to verify the arm is pivoting, with the set shut down ,yank up on the actuator arm (to full fuel) and then try starting and stopping your set again.
Remember all this is assuming you have the governing system setup right and you still have shut down problems.
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Can you post a video of what it does when you shut it down?
R Racing
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Here is where I found the hose ! It was the most reasonable priced and its very flexible to make install easier . http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=08756
R Racing
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Ok got another weird 1 LOL !! Unit 2 starts ( it doesn't start as fast as the other 1) After it starts takes about 2 seconds and the voltage meter goes to 240V . After about 5 to 10 seconds the governor kicks to the magnet and the voltage goes to 0. If I hold the governor arm it will stay running and you can feel the gov kick . but right after it kicks the voltage goes to 0 ? I jumpered past the oil pressure switch just to see if it was the issue, but it didn't seem to make any difference. It seems its maybe power related ? Replaced the E stop on unit 1, put in a new 1 with 2 N.C. contacts . I ran jumpers to parallel the contacts since the old 1s were pitted . I think this will greatly extend there life with all the vibration. I will say my starter relay doesn't click like it use to 
Replaced the fuel filler hose on unit 2 so no more diesel all over the ground.
Replaced the fuel filler hose on unit 2 so no more diesel all over the ground.
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No alarms on the panel?
Unplug the governor actuator so it will stay running. Check the voltage on the top of the inverter. Does it go out there?
Unplug the governor actuator so it will stay running. Check the voltage on the top of the inverter. Does it go out there?
R Racing
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No alarms. So not sure if there is a burnt bulb or not? I'll try unplugging it in the am . It has me a bit proplexed.the voltage going to zero on the front meter. I haven't been able to check on top of the inverter yet .
Dewie38
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Voltage out of the PMA is directly proportional to engine speed and the inverter needs a certain amount of PMA voltage to turn on and stay on.
So if your engine is going to slow or slows down to much then the inverter will shut off.
As for a light out on the fault panel, press and hold the fault reset/ press to test button on the fault panel if they all light up then your lights are ok.
Disconnect your oil pressure switch and start the set if and when it shuts down, open the control panel and check to see if K12, (fault shut down relay), is energized, this is confirmed by the light on the relay, if the light is on, relay is energized.
If K12 is energized then you have a fault somewhere.
So if your engine is going to slow or slows down to much then the inverter will shut off.
As for a light out on the fault panel, press and hold the fault reset/ press to test button on the fault panel if they all light up then your lights are ok.
Disconnect your oil pressure switch and start the set if and when it shuts down, open the control panel and check to see if K12, (fault shut down relay), is energized, this is confirmed by the light on the relay, if the light is on, relay is energized.
If K12 is energized then you have a fault somewhere.
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I had a moment of stupidity when I started one with too little fuel in the tank. K12 was energized by the low fuel switch. Kept wondering what was going on. It was a sunny day and I couldn't see that the fuel alarm was on.
R Racing
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Funny you mention that. When I first tried to start the Gen a week ago that light was on but the tank was full. I found they had removed the screws to the sending unit I thought because if getting to the the filler hose. Maybe it's bad? I did put another gallon and a half in it last night before I tried starting it . I will unplug it and see if that's it. I do know either the gauge or fuel level sending unit is bad because it reads about 45 degrees past full lol