Mep002

[Walt4653]

Helping a friend who purchased a MEP 002 with 8 hrs, reset by letterkenny in 05
did all the necessary prep work, cleaned tank, new filters, new fuel etc.
Tried to start no go, turns over does not start, no smoke coming from exhaust, glow plugs work, etc, noticed a old ip painted brown, rest of genset green. Took out one injector no fuel going through but looked clean,fuel lines return fuel,what am I missing here. Could it be the ip, and how careful do I need to be to take apart, and what am I supposed to see. Took line off ip no fuel squirting out when turning over.
please help

Thanks Walt

 

[johnray13]

No smoke=no fuel. Maybe an air lock in the fuel line. I would start at the pumps and run them with the low pressure line at the IP disconnected until you get good flow. Then reconnect, prime, glow plug for a minute and try starting again.

Good luck,
John

 

[Jimc]

Did you check the filters in the pumps? Bottom of each pump there is a hex head. Put a wrench on it and take the bottom cap off to remove the screen. These would be your first obstruction. From there you got your main fuel filters then the ip. Between your filters and the ip there is a check valve as well. That could be stuck shut

 

[DieselBob]

Does the fuel shutoff solenoid (number 1) retract when you place the master switch in "prime and run" position.

 

[storeman]

Is there fuel TO the IP? Start on the supply side, as others have recommended. After ensuring low pressure fuel line is feeding IP with no air bubbles, loosen high pressure fuel lines at the IP and see if it is pumping the fuel it is getting. Let all air bubbles out if pumping, if not pumping, report back. If pumping then re-tighten and work your way to the injectors.
As dieselbob pointed out, nothing happens if the solenoid is not retracting to allow the throttle to open. Solenoid can be propped up with a screw driver while you crank.
Jerry

 

[Walt4653]

Is there fuel TO the IP? Start on the supply side, as others have recommended. After ensuring low pressure fuel line is feeding IP with no air bubbles, loosen high pressure fuel lines at the IP and see if it is pumping the fuel it is getting. Let all air bubbles out if pumping, if not pumping, report back. If pumping then re-tighten and work your way to the injectors.
As dieselbob pointed out, nothing happens if the solenoid is not retracting to allow the throttle to open. Solenoid can be propped up with a screw driver while you crank.
Jerry

Jerry, got fuel to ip, when cranked loosened hp line no fuel coming out when cranked, ????????

 

[storeman]

When the solenoid forced up, does the throttle lever come upwards or is it stuck down?? If it comes up and if you have long arms, you can lift the solenoid with your right hand while cranking the unit with your left hand. That should let fuel flow. Use an assistant to crank the unit if you need to and you operate/observe the solenoid and throttle lever.
If this doesn't work, you have IP problems.
Jerry

 

[Jimc]

Ok walt once you do jerry's test its time to pull the pump and see what you got. I was a little hesitant to do mine as well but i got it off and the whole thing was pretty simple. No too many parts and no o-rings or anything like that that you need to worry about. Just pull apart. You will see if anything is broken. I have a feeling the bowtie piece is broken if you have that model pump. Be sure to have the tm or the parts manual with the breakdown pic.

read over this thread. Some pics of the internals and some info.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?102043-mep002a-injector-pump

 

[storeman]

Before pulling, you might want to remove the central cap on the IP, then the 12 point 5/8" cap beneath it (both torqued very strongly) then pull the tiny valve straight out and try to tap the plunger shaft end, which you will see in the hole. Use a brass rod or a blunt end drift. Some can become stuck. If it moves, crank the engine by hand using a 5/8 deep socket through the front of the fan shroud. Turn engine a 360 degree rev or two and have someone watch the plunger shaft. If it moves with the rhythm of the hand cranking, you may have solved your problem. If no movement, you have to tear down the pump as described by Jimc.
Jerry

 

[storeman]

Also, if you decide you have to pull the pump, you might consider removing the 3rd fuel filter so you can more easily remove the timing screw from the left side of the base of the pump. Then put a 1/8 drill butt end in the hole and turn the engine by hand from the front until the 1/8' drill butt seats in the IP slot. Then look through the flywheel opening ( the hole to the left of the pump with the pointer mounted on the flywheel housing). You should be able to see the centering marks. If not, go another full circle manually and check again. Once the drill is in the slot and marks are visible through the hole in the housing, remove the pump and when you reinstall the pump, you won't have to go through the timing procedure.

Jerry

 

[Walt4653]

Also, if you decide you have to pull the pump, you might consider removing the 3rd fuel filter so you can more easily remove the timing screw from the left side of the base of the pump. Then put a 1/8 drill butt end in the hole and turn the engine by hand from the front until the 1/8' drill butt seats in the IP slot. Then look through the flywheel opening ( the hole to the left of the pump with the pointer mounted on the flywheel housing). You should be able to see the centering marks. If not, go another full circle manually and check again. Once the drill is in the slot and marks are visible through the hole in the housing, remove the pump and when you reinstall the pump, you won't have to go through the timing procedure.

Jerry

It's snowing today and have to plow, will try pulling the pump later today, on a rebuilt unit by letterkenny with 4 hrs since rebuild, the ip was brown in color whole gen was green, the drill bit as described where does it enter, I don't want to have to time machine, also later las night I pulled a cover to the right of the ip and found what looks like a car rotor broken, I had a spare and replaced it, what does that do, looks like the governor control. I think someone replaced the ip with a bad unit but will try above steps first. If the ip is bad will a 10 kw fit I have several.
again nice to have experts on line, too bad you don't live close
walt

Also I have read about spacers etc in the ip,,,,,,,,,What are they used for,
,

 

[Walt4653]

Ok walt once you do jerry's test its time to pull the pump and see what you got. I was a little hesitant to do mine as well but i got it off and the whole thing was pretty simple. No too many parts and no o-rings or anything like that that you need to worry about. Just pull apart. You will see if anything is broken. I have a feeling the bowtie piece is broken if you have that model pump. Be sure to have the tm or the parts manual with the breakdown pic.

read over this thread. Some pics of the internals and some info.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?102043-mep002a-injector-pump

Jim I don't remember if it was you or Jerry that welded the bow tie if broken, can this be done.
thanks Walt, nice to have experts on line,

 

[Jimc]

Someone on here did it. I dont remember who but i wouldnt bother. There are members on here with spare ip parts.

 

[storeman]

LuckyDog did the welding. I've got a couple of used ones. AMBAC has new ones.
Jerry