MEP003 IP Timing ?

[Sundance]

Just finished tearing down my injector pump to free up a stuck plunger. Everything now moves great but I'm unsure whether or not I have timing issues on reassembly. The Ambac manual assumes you have all the test equipment which of course I don't.

Posted this on Smokstak also hoping for some advice.

Thanks, Steve

 

[Speddmon]

Download TM5-6115-585-34 from the resources section. Page 7-38 section "F" starts the explanation of installing a pump that has been rebuilt or a brand new pump. It covers two methods of timing, one for known button thicknesses and port closing dimensions. And one doing a flow method.

 

[Sundance]

Thanks, I'll look.

 

[Sundance]

Hooray!!! Rebuilt the IP installed it and it runs .

But..... I'm getting 188 volts out of the 110v receptacle .

I guess I'll read some more, but anybody have a quick solution?

It's producing it at 60hz and my 24 volt ammeter is running in the high yellow range.

Well at least it sounds great and starts real easy.

 

[Speddmon]

is that 188volts measured with a good voltmeter? or are you going by the gauge on the panel?

 

[Speddmon]

Looking at the TM, there is supposed to be a jumper wire of #4 gauge on the reconnection switch inside. Connecting terminal #6 and L0.

I would check the voltage at the receptacle in all of the reconnection positions. From looking at the schematic, the only position that could be a problem is in the 120 volt single phase configuration. The other two automatically place the receptacle between L3 and L0. But the 120 volt single phase only position needs that jumper in place to tie L1 and L0 together or you will not get the proper voltage from the looks of it.

 

[Sundance]

I've got a fairly expensive meter and it and the one on the panel both read 188 volts.

Also assuming I can resolve this issue I need the "close to run" panel if anybody has a donor machine. I'll start another thread for that though.

 

[Speddmon]

Are you talking the sheet metal panel covering the injectors and intake manifold? If you don't have that one, you might not want to run it too long with-out it. From what I've read on the "SmokStak" forum, that panel isn't just there for protection, it's designed for the airflow as well....since these beasts are air cooled, you'll probably need that one.

As to the voltage, what connection do you have it in? Is it the same when connected for all three possible configurations? The TM say's a "Double Fault" can occur in the 120 volt only position with-out that jumper. But it doesn't specify the faults. I'm just going by what I saw in the schematic

 

[Sundance]

I get the same voltage in all 3 switch positions. Plus when I switch to 240v I get over 300 volts.
Is the voltage regulator adjustable?

Yes it is the sheet metal cover and I suspected the cooling issue so I've just run in small spurts to check voltage etc.

 

[Speddmon]

TM 5-6115-585-34 page 2-11 is the troubleshooting section for the problem you are describing. "Generator output voltage too high (no load)" Since it's not an easy fix...follow the steps and see where they lead.

 

[Sundance]

Speddmon,

Just opened up the control panel and found a bundle of 10 wires connected to NOTHING.

I deduce they are supposed to be connected to the voltage regulator which is AWOL.

This gets funner everyday. Now I need to find a voltage regulator. No wonder it was over producing.

Thanks for your help now I need parts.

 

[Speddmon]

Delk's army navy in NC told me he has just about every part you could need for those sets. I don't know how much he would want but it's worth a try.

Delk's

If they are too expensive, I read a post on that "Smokstak" forum about running the set without one...had to do some jerry rigging, but in a pinch it can be done. The guy said he has run it for years without the regulator.

 

[Sundance]

Thanks again, Speddmon.