MEP004A DC Circuit Interrupt trip issue

[Used Iron Junkie]

I am in need of some technical guidance to troubleshoot an issue with my Hollingworth MEP004A Generator. I purchased it back in 2013 from GL. It was reconditioned and only had 79 hours on it. I have used it for several storms of lesser intensity and it has a total run time now of 159 hours. Up to now, it has run without a hitch.
I am working in East Tx and with Hurricane Ida's uninvited and unwanted visit, I had to return to So La to mitigate some roof and tree damage. Set my gen up, connected up my power cable to my manual switch, and fired her up. the system ran fine at about 70% load for about 6 hours. The system shut itself down. After exploring the shut down I discovered that the DC interrupt fuse and tripped.
I reset it, did a restart and it ran for about 45 seconds then shut down again as the interrupt breaker tripped again. I noticed that the DC transducer mounted behind the control panel was leaking the potting material. The next morning I replaced the DC transducer . ( I was fortunate to be able to buy the MEP maintenance box, so I have spare parts for it).
That did not resolve the issue. reviewing the manuals I have, I don't see any helpful placed to start in regard to this issue.
I am looking for you guys expertise who have worked on these units to provide me some help in isolating and fixing this issue. I had to come back to Tx for work, it will be several weeks before I can get back.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Are you talking about the DC circuit breaker located to the far right of the control panel?

 

[Used Iron Junkie]

Are you talking about the DC circuit breaker located to the far right of the control panel?

Yes Sir. Right side under the gauges/meters. 7.5amp breaker.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Yes Sir. Right side under the gauges/meters. 7.5amp breaker.

Ok I had the same problem with my 004. There is one of 2 possible problems here.

1 something is drawing too much current
2 breaker is bad

The following process needs to be done with care and a basic understanding of electrical testing processes.

You will need a multimeter that does DC amperage and is rated for atleast 7.5 amps of current (most can do 10 amps feed through) min max mode is a plus to have. on the back of the breaker one pole should have 2 wires (this is line side one is battery the other is alternator) the other pole is the load side. disconnect the load side and attach that wire to one of the meter leads, the other meter lead goes to the load side of the breaker. start the set and observe the meter readings. At this point i would set the meter to max mode (if your reading is negative set for min mode) and log the highest current when the breaker trips. if its over 7.5 you have a high draw somewhere, if it isnt its a bad breaker. If I were a gambling man I would bet bad breaker.

 

[Used Iron Junkie]

Ok I had the same problem with my 004. There is one of 2 possible problems here.

1 something is drawing too much current
2 breaker is bad

The following process needs to be done with care and a basic understanding of electrical testing processes.

You will need a multimeter that does DC amperage and is rated for at least 7.5 amps of current (most can do 10 amps feed through) min max mode is a plus to have. on the back of the breaker one pole should have 2 wires (this is line side one is battery the other is alternator) the other pole is the load side. disconnect the load side and attach that wire to one of the meter leads, the other meter lead goes to the load side of the breaker. start the set and observe the meter readings. At this point i would set the meter to max mode (if your reading is negative set for min mode) and log the highest current when the breaker trips. if its over 7.5 you have a high draw somewhere, if it isn't its a bad breaker. If I were a gambling man I would bet bad breaker.

Great. I will follow your directions as provided. I cant get back there for a few weeks, but will post what I find both if successful to fix it, or to ask for more direction if not.
I greatly apricate your help with this.
Best regards to you and all.

 

[Guyfang]

I am in need of some technical guidance to troubleshoot an issue with my Hollingworth MEP004A Generator. I purchased it back in 2013 from GL. It was reconditioned and only had 79 hours on it. I have used it for several storms of lesser intensity and it has a total run time now of 159 hours. Up to now, it has run without a hitch.
I am working in East Tx and with Hurricane Ida's uninvited and unwanted visit, I had to return to So La to mitigate some roof and tree damage. Set my gen up, connected up my power cable to my manual switch, and fired her up. the system ran fine at about 70% load for about 6 hours. The system shut itself down. After exploring the shut down I discovered that the DC interrupt fuse and tripped.
I reset it, did a restart and it ran for about 45 seconds then shut down again as the interrupt breaker tripped again. I noticed that the DC transducer mounted behind the control panel was leaking the potting material. The next morning I replaced the DC transducer . ( I was fortunate to be able to buy the MEP maintenance box, so I have spare parts for it). (Look at the wire numbers on the A1, (Thermal Watt Converter), What yiou called a DC transducer. Check the wire numbers with the schematic. Its possible you got it hooked up wrong.)
That did not resolve the issue. reviewing the manuals I have, I don't see any helpful placed to start in regard to this issue.
I am looking for you guys expertise who have worked on these units to provide me some help in isolating and fixing this issue. I had to come back to Tx for work, it will be several weeks before I can get back.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Rarely is the CB1, (DC control circuit breaker), what you called DC interrupter fuse, going to be bad. Very robust CB. It can happen, but rare. Scooby explained how to check it. But in the norm, when this CB pops, its because of other problems. I would first start looking for a wire worn though against the frame of the set. Look for wires that got hot, or burned up. Use your nose. Smell something funny. Look under the relay table. Check all the canon plugs/harnesses going to the A27, (Special Relay box). as this is a very good place to find a wire burnt, shorted to ground. Remove the plugs and take the box out. take the cover off and LOOK at the wires inside. All the circuits that are activated in the start sequence, run through the A27. I would look hard for that. If you see nothing, then start taking off Canon plugs. Start with the G2, (battery charging alternator) . Because you said, " I reset it, did a restart and it ran for about 45 seconds then shut down again", I would look hard at the A11, (Static Exciter). Are the cables going to it damaged? Take the small plug off and try and start the set. That plug gets the signal to "light off" the main get. It seems as though the set tries to start and run, but then something pops the CB1 during the start/run process.

What TM' do you have? The TM's from the TM forum here in SS? The TM's for this set have been updated a number of times, and some other sources have only the old TM's. Also, the MEP-005A TM's are 99.99 % the same as the MEP-004A TM's, and some of the schematics in the 005A book are of a better quality.

Where in East Texas? Near Wills Point?

Open to see comments

 

[Used Iron Junkie]

Open to see comments

Guyfang
Thank you for your reply. I wont be able to get back to La for several weeks to look into this. I will check out what you have suggested.
The TM I have are, 5-6115-465-34, 5-6115-625-14P, 9-6115-464-12, 9-6115-464-24P, 96155-464-34.
Is there another I should look for?
Cleveland, Liberty County Tx.
Thanks Again.

 

[Guyfang]

The TM5-6115-625-14&P is for the gen set and trailer. If you have the trailer to go along with the set, its of use. But not often.

The rest of them are good. The 464 books are for the 15 KW, the 465 book is for the 30 KW. But like I wrote before, they are for all intents and purposes, interchangeable. Its just that the quality of printing sucks, on both sets of books. So sometimes I used a 15 KW book when troubleshooting a 30 KW, simply because the printing was readable. Or somewhat more readable. The only time you need to look out is with the 24P. There are a few parts different between the models. But 98% of the parts are the same. Also know that the 465 books were updated more often then the 464 books. AND, sadly, there are some mistakes in both books. Not many, but a few. Did you get the TM's, from the SS TM forum? They are the most up to date ones.

Been through Cleveland a time or two. Had a step brother who lived in Conroe. When you are ready to go farther, just start posting. Unless the Covid carries me off, I and the rest of the folks will be here! Good luck!

 

[Mikerose1]

we’re to get manual for trouble shooting the wires have same problem

 

[Guyfang]

Mike,

You need to start your own thread, for a problem on your gen set. Its simply too hard for folks to follow several people in the same thread.
The link below will take you to the TM Forum, and it has the TM's for the MEP-004A.

All the TM's you need to work on the MEP-004A

All the TM's you need to work on the MEP-004A

www.steelsoldiers.com

Welcome to the Steel Soldiers Forum! If you need help with anything, start the thread and we will see about getting you up and running!

 

[Scoobyshep]

we’re to get manual for trouble shooting the wires have same problem

If you are asking where to get the manuals click the TM tab up top and look for the gen set you have

 

[Mikerose1]

Having a problem with the wiring on my MEP-004 was shorting out the 7.5 Dc breaker but now it has no fuel light have traced it to a fuel pump that shorts out and won’t run when you ground the RF box on the side runs when you don’t ground it . But can’t get any power now to the pumps where to start any help would be fine other than that got to trace wires backwards Thanks

 

[Scoobyshep]

Having a problem with the wiring on my MEP-004 was shorting out the 7.5 Dc breaker but now it has no fuel light have traced it to a fuel pump that shorts out and won’t run when you ground the RF box on the side runs when you don’t ground it . But can’t get any power now to the pumps where to start any help would be fine other than that got to trace wires backwards Thanks

First do you have the manuals (click the TM link up above if you dont). can you follow a wiring diagram and use a volt meter?


No fuel is from a float in the day tank, so if the pumps are inoperative that may be an accurate fault.

need to follow the diagram and see where you are loosing the fuel pump power. (those wont run with the engine stopped btw unless the battle short is on)

 

[Mikerose1]

It won’t pump in battle mode , the pump somehow is shorting out on the Rf box on the pump probably have to replace the RF box on the side of pump no wires have any sign of burning on them has to be a inline fuse or a component gone bad will test the harness but was hoping someone has had the same problem and a area to start at . 15 amp fuse isn’t kicking anymore but no power to pumps .

 

[Scoobyshep]

It won’t pump in battle mode , the pump somehow is shorting out on the Rf box on the pump probably have to replace the RF box on the side of pump no wires have any sign of burning on them has to be a inline fuse or a component gone bad will test the harness but was hoping someone has had the same problem and a area to start at . 15 amp fuse isn’t kicking anymore but no power to pumps .

I have never seen it but there is alot of people having issues with the noise suppressor (add on part on the pump) shorting. I believe they can be removed. There should be in the wire going to the pumps a black round rubber block. That os a disconnect. If you unplug that place the run switch in run and the battle short to on do you have 24 volt from there to battery negative?

 

[Mikerose1]

Will check it thanks not there at the moment just looking for input before starting