Mep802a Fuel fault light

[TheAlfredo]

I have a friend that is trying to start up an MEP802a. When he turns the switch to prime and run, the fuel pump kicks on for a split second and then the fault light comes on and it shuts off the pump.

fuel gage is working

Is there a plug that might have come loose?

this is a fresh reset With 4 hours.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Reset or not, assume nothing was done properly. The fuel fault light is a topic discussed many times, I would search it out... its one of two things (well three if you could no fuel in the tank). Has your friend seen this run properly or is this the first go?

 

[TheAlfredo]

Reset or not, assume nothing was done properly. The fuel fault light is a topic discussed many times, I would search it out... its one of two things (well three if you could no fuel in the tank). Has your friend seen this run properly or is this the first go?

This is the first go. I wasn’t sure if the fault uses the same float switch as the gage? I know the 2nd float switch is for the aux pump.

It is a first go. Batteries were new. Cables were still wrapped new. This is definitely a first go for that generator.

 

[Guyfang]

Please understand. The fuel level meter has nothing to do with the fault light. Nothing. Look in the tank for fuel. Look into the tank to see if the FL-2 float is stuck.

 

[TheAlfredo]

Please understand. The fuel level meter has nothing to do with the fault light. Nothing. Look in the tank for fuel. Look into the tank to see if the FL-2 float is stuck.

So there is a 3rd Float switch (FL2) for the fault?
Unfortunately, his arms are too big to reach into the tank. He might have to wait till I get back into town

 

[Guyfang]

I would suggest you and your partner get the TM's and read them. There is only 2 each, fuel level switches. FL-1 and FL-2. One is to shut the set down before it runs out of fuel. The other is to turn on the Aux pump. The gauge is drivel by a FUEL LEVEL SENDER. The level sender and the switches have nothing in common.

 

[Ray70]

Start with Guy's suggestion to open the tank and verify fuel level. If there is fuel, remove the rear cover to access the tank area.
Remove the dual float assembly for the aux. pump and low fuel. It will have 2 red and 2 black wires in a single plug.
Take it out of the tank and manually manipulate the lower of the 2 floats using an ohm meter to see if it is working correctly, or just turn on the S1 switch while holding the float up and see if your fuel light stays off. If the light still comes on with the float up, verify function with a meter. If checking with a meter proves the float assembly is good, the next likely culprit would be the float control module which is the small box bolted to the inner right panel inside the tank area, where the 4 float wires go.

A note about the float unit: The float can be rotated by loosening the upper nut. I have seen cases where the float was installed with the float touching up against the side of the tank, causing it to get hung up. This is why Guy suggested to look in the tank to see if the float is stuck against the side of the tank or not. if so, simply rotate it slightly away from the side of the tank.

 

[zarathustra]

Assuming you have the rear panel removed and have access to the fuel sender and liquid level sensor....

The liquid level sensor is sorta in the center of the fuel tank and has a vertical aluminum shaft that has four wires coming out of the top.

Try simply disconnecting the wires coming from the liquid level sensor (tiny wires, 2 black and 2 red) all connected by a 4 pin white Molex connector, and then try to start and run the generator. If it runs OK with that connector disconnected AND if you have fuel in the tank it could be as easy as adjusting the liquid level sensor so that it'll run more fuel out before you get the error message. While the connector being disconnected won't harm things or affect the generator performance, I would not leave the connector disconnected, 'cause your aux pump won't work and the low fuel sensor won't work either if left disconnected.

On two gensets I have I have cut the black wires coming from the liquid level sensor and connected a toggle switch to them and mounted the switch in the engine compartment. That allows me to run with the signal or without the signal from the liquid level sensor. I also put one of those "protectors" on the switch so that when the cover is pushed down it automatically closes the switch. Since one cannot get to the liquid level sensor wiring with the rear panel on it makes life easier if the genset keeps shutting off with "NO FUEL" indicator fault.

 

[Guyfang]