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Ok
will do asap - thank you !-
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MEP802A not starting . Notice anything major in video
- Thread starter Leonardo82nd
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will do asap - thank you !Ray70
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One critical piece of info I don't see listed here, was this machine running and then you replaced the fuel lines and now it won't run, or is this set new to you and you have never seen it run??
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The gen was not running , I could never get it to turn on - and on top of that , it was leaking at the return line . So I started with the leak first .Now the leaks are sealed up , but it still will not Turn on .
Ray70
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Ah, ok... that makes all the difference in the world! I was originally under the impression that it was working, but then quit after the fuel line replacement.
Please move forward with checking the fuel flow into and out of the metering pumps.
My hunch is that you will find that you have fuel at the pumps, but not coming out of them.
If so, the fuel rack inside the engine that controls the metering pumps will be your next inspection point!
Please move forward with checking the fuel flow into and out of the metering pumps.
My hunch is that you will find that you have fuel at the pumps, but not coming out of them.
If so, the fuel rack inside the engine that controls the metering pumps will be your next inspection point!
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Could be that the pumps themselves are frozen too, but yeah need to keep moving through the system.
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Does the set turn over when S1 is in START?
Does the Fuel Solenoid retract when you are cranking the engine with S1?
Does the Fuel Solenoid retract when you are cranking the engine with S1?
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Yes to both Kurt. He posted a video in the opening post of this thread FYI.
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Musta missed that. Woke up way too early today.
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no problem, I just checked to make sure it’s still up . Still learning how to work . The consensus is to keep going down the line . any additional tips
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how do I go about checking the flow into and out of the metering pumps ?
its been a while , I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump. that did not start the unit .
how do I go about checking the flow into and out of the metering pumps ?
Ray70
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Either crack the lines at the top of the metering pumps or at the injectors, crank ( from the main start switch ) and see if you get small spurts of fuel from the loosened lines while cranking.
The fuel will not be a real lot, just a small spurt with every 2nd revolution of the engine.
If you don't get anything coming out of the metering pumps the next step would be to pull 1 metering pump at a time and check for either a stuck lever which would cause the fuel rack to be stuck in the fuel-off position, or metering pumps that are stuck in the "compressed" position ( identified by the spring being almost fully compressed )
Normally the distance from the mounting plate to the tip of the metering pump should be 2 1/4" something less indicates the pump is stuck compressed.
The fuel will not be a real lot, just a small spurt with every 2nd revolution of the engine.
If you don't get anything coming out of the metering pumps the next step would be to pull 1 metering pump at a time and check for either a stuck lever which would cause the fuel rack to be stuck in the fuel-off position, or metering pumps that are stuck in the "compressed" position ( identified by the spring being almost fully compressed )
Normally the distance from the mounting plate to the tip of the metering pump should be 2 1/4" something less indicates the pump is stuck compressed.
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Fuel goes into the IP's thru the rubber hoses. You can remove one and see if fuel squirts out when the fuel pump is running.
If so then reattach the hose and then loosen the hard line on top of the IP. Turn the set over with S1 and see if fuel weeps out when attempting to start it.
If you got fuel at the rubber hose but not from the hard line then you may have a stuck fuel rack. If it's stuck in the STOP position it won't allow the IP's to pump any fuel.
You can check that by removing the plug on the governor body. Shown below.
Once removed you can spot the end of the fuel rack to the right in the opening.
See if that moves out of sight when you manually rotate the lever on the side of the governor that the fuel solenoid moves when cranking.
If it doesn't you may want to give it a nudge while holding the solenoid in the run position to see if it's stuck and can get it to move.
If so then reattach the hose and then loosen the hard line on top of the IP. Turn the set over with S1 and see if fuel weeps out when attempting to start it.
If you got fuel at the rubber hose but not from the hard line then you may have a stuck fuel rack. If it's stuck in the STOP position it won't allow the IP's to pump any fuel.
You can check that by removing the plug on the governor body. Shown below.
Once removed you can spot the end of the fuel rack to the right in the opening.
See if that moves out of sight when you manually rotate the lever on the side of the governor that the fuel solenoid moves when cranking.
If it doesn't you may want to give it a nudge while holding the solenoid in the run position to see if it's stuck and can get it to move.
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Got it, thank you’ll Klopp & Ray. I will post an update after the tests are performed.
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I made this video on a scrap LPW2 engine to show what exactly is going on inside with the injections pumps and the rack. Hopefully it will be a little helpful for you in your inspection on the pumps. Possible that the pumps were not put in correctly by the whomever refurbished it. I have a unit rebuilt out of the same place I think with a few hours that was dead.
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Colt , much appreciated. That definitely helps with the inspection. Thank you.
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You're welcome. I hate to seem like a guy on here that just shares his own videos, but I feel like a video can be 1000x more helpful than reading something typed out or seeing a picture.Colt , much appreciated. That definitely helps with the inspection. Thank you.
Ray70
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You're 100% correct. I've tried explaining it 1/2 dozen times and it is difficult to put into text.... and probably even more difficult for people to understand.
Picture = 1000 words, Video = Priceless!
Good job Colt.
Picture = 1000 words, Video = Priceless!
Good job Colt.
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Without a doubt, to explain problems or solutions . On a side note. I ran into an issue with an 803a that I haven’t dealt with before . I’m not getting any power at S1 . The dead crank works . But absolutely no power on the panel . Any suggestions where I should start . CB1 fuse is pushed in, emergency stop is pulled out . No power at panel , lights nothing .
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Check for about 24 volts DC with respect to chassis ground at S10-3 and both used terminals on the S17.
All should have about 24 volts DC on them.
If they do then check the two terminals on CB1 for 24 volts.
If they do then check S1 terminals 2,4,6 & 8 for 24 volts.
Check S2-2 for 24 volts too.
All should have about 24 volts DC on them.
If they do then check the two terminals on CB1 for 24 volts.
If they do then check S1 terminals 2,4,6 & 8 for 24 volts.
Check S2-2 for 24 volts too.
Ray70
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If the above shows no 24v at CB1 or S1, check CR-1 diode, rear left corner inside control cube 2nd up from the bottom soldered onto the burden resistor panel.
If that diode is open you will have no 24V DC anywhere within the control panel.
If that diode is open you will have no 24V DC anywhere within the control panel.