mep802a starting problem

[CRV]

hi guys i have a starting problem with my 802a after i picked it up from auction i had to find a canister for fuel filter which i finally did installed all new filters primed system ,it did fill filters ok ,it cranks over great but will not start,it looks to me like stop solenoid is not pulling open are there any safty switches to check ,i will try to check it tomarrow by manuel holding the fuel lever open but had a storm come up and i melt in the rain [ wish i did i could stand to lose a few pounds ] anyhow though i would check and see if anyone else has an idea about my problem. many thanks in advance. DICK

 

[glassk]

2-95. FUEL SOLENOID.
2-95-1.
Testing.
a. Open left side engine access door and disconnect negative battery cable.
b. Measure from fuel solenoid housing (17, Figure 2-25) to nut (1 and note measurement.
c. Tag, disconnect, and insulate wire 113B from starter solenoid and connect negative battery cable.
d. Move generator set MASTER SWITCH to START position and observe that fuel solenoid linkage retracts.
e. Release MASTER SWITCH to RUN position, ensure fuel solenoid linkage remains retracted, and measure
from solenoid housing (17) to nut (1 again. Difference in measurement from step b should be 1 in. (2.54 cm).
f. Position MASTER SWITCH to OFF.
g. Repeat test several times to ensure proper performance of solenoid.
h. If fuel solenoid does not travel its full 1 in. (2.54 cm), the solenoid is defective and must be replaced.
i. Disconnect negative battey cable and connect wire 113B to starter solenoid.
j. Connect negative battery cable and close access door.
2-95-2.
Inspection.
a. Shut down generator set.
b. Open left side engine access door and disconnect negative battery cable.
c. Inspect fuel solenoid assembly for damage and loose connections.
d. Connect negative battery cable and close left side engine access door.






TM 9-6115-641-24

 

[Ratch]

I had to fiddle with mine a bit. I manually actuated it a few times, removed it and dis-reassembled it to free it up, and it's fine now.

 

[CRV]

Thanks glassk & ratch i will check these out and let you know how it goes ,hopefully i can get it working it looks like they are right expensive to replace but then again almost every thing is now adays.

 

[CRV]

Well good news and bad news so far,the fuel solenoid checks out good per glassk's instructions the fuel shut off lever was sticking a little and per ratch's instructions i worked it by hand a few times and it freed up and worked on its own. Bad news still wont fire up cranks fine fuel solenoid opens and locks fuel lever springs open but no putt-putt. I guess the next step is to check the injectors and there pumps but i need a little help on how to go about this,also the engine compression seems ok as the exhaust flapper valve kicks up and down as i crank the engine over.

 

[Ratch]

Are you sure you're getting fuel to the injection pump?
Mine behaved similarly when I got it, and one problem was the lift pump not pumping initially. I had to disassemble that, too. But in hindsight, I think I could have just removed the input to the lift pump, poured some diesel in it to lube it, and tried from there.

 

[Ratch]

Nevermind, just reread your first post and saw that your lift pump seems ok.

I'd say crack the feed lines at the injectors and see if they leak fuel when cranking.

Btw, make sure you ground the set before starting. I read documentation on these that some units had poorly routed genhead wiring that rubbed through and energized the entire chassis.

 

[CRV]

Ok i will give that a try,my brother is suppose to give me a hand on this he worked on vw, and dodge cummings diesels were he worked before retiring my golden years are more like rusty years i pretty much know how to do the work but my mind says yes and my body says woaaa!! Thanks for reminder on grounding i put two seperate grounds on my jc15 onan that i use for my house aux.power.

 

[m-35tom]

the shut off sel only allows the fuel rack to go to full fuel, so if an injection pump is stuck, the rack will not move, and it will stay at off. conversly the sel forces the rack to go to no fuel (well, tries to force it). the easiest way to check this is to remove a injector line from top of a pump. remove the top of the pump, and remove the check valve. with a mirror or a scope you can see the plunger and it has a slot on one side so it will be easy to see if it is turning when you manually operate the shut off. the govenor will have nothing to do with any of this since it is trying to go to full when it is not running. also the shut off has nothing to do with engine speed, it is just on / off. when you do try to start it, be prepared for a run away. you can stop it by just putting your hand over the air intake on the manifold and holding it there until it stops. ( remove the hose first so you can if needed )

 

[zarathustra]

I had a similar problem.

The solution was:
Take injectors out and have them cleaned and tested. Mine needed cleaning and one new injector tip
Took both lift pumps out -- NOTE -- Take 'em out one at a time, and always leave at least one pump installed....
My injector pumps would not rotate. I took each pump apart; removed the piston, then polished the pump piston and pump 'cylinder' with some chrome polish.
Re-assembled them and the engine started. The first time it started I had to crank it a bit, but from then on it started like my old '54 cj3b jeep -- two revolutions and it's running.

Take the pump apart carefully. First thing is the upper portion which just unscrews. Some parts are likely to fall out of the unit, so note the order in which they come out. That part is intuitive.. If, as in my case, no parts fell out, all that means is that they, too are stuck and you'll need to remove them and clean 'em --- I used lacquer thinner.

If you stand the pump vertical and look at the side of the pump the external pin that goes into the rail will most likely be stuck in the far left position...

Next, with the pump stuck in the far left position, look down into the pump and note the notch on the piston. Also note the relationship between the notch and the port where the fuel enters. Once disassembled, it is possible to assemble the pump 180 degrees out, but if it is assembled 180 out the relationship between the notch and the port will not be the same as original with the pin to the left. It is really quite simple, and once you've finished the first pump you'll feel like an expert when doing the second one.

The way the piston is held in the pump is by "forming" the bottom edge/lip of the housing so as to prevent it from coming completely out of the housing. So when removing the piston, "form" the housing so that the piston can be removed, and "re-form" it after re-installing the piston in the pump.

The ONLY difference between "forming" and bending, is that when one "forms" he knows what he is doing, and when one "bends" he doesn't.

When re-assembling, I made use of an old wooden chopstick as a tool for holding the piston in place when installing springs.

As a side benefit, since the chopstick had been modified to use as a tool, I "just had" to go back and get some Mongolian Beef at the local Chinese restaurant ---

 

[CRV]

Well guys for me this is going to be an education i thank everyone for the great suggestions i only wish i had a service manuel for the engine i have parts manuel for the mep802a and a couple of different operation manuels.
The chinese food sounds like a good idea. Let you guys know how this turns out.