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Mid Winch Install on M818

Jakelc15

Active member
718
37
28
Location
Hanover Pa
Started working on it. Got a lot more to do. Hopefully this info will be useful to someone else too.
In using a front winch mounted behind my cab. I have to move the air lines, Pogo stick, and trailer wire connector.
I'm using some of the factory rack bracket and tying some new brackets into the frame.
I plan to make a fairlead that will clip into the 5th wheel but for now I'll pull off my heavy tow bar mounted like gin poles.
 

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Jakelc15

Active member
718
37
28
Location
Hanover Pa
Hey Jeff
I know I could swap the housings from side to side. But the input has to be on the back. If it sticks out the front it may interfere with 5th wheel trailers. The truck is really kinda short for this mod.
Still have that PTO for me?
 

Jakelc15

Active member
718
37
28
Location
Hanover Pa
Yep going hydraulic.
I made the spreadsheet from info in the Tm's and NSN descriptions.
I like the 939 series trucks, especially the brake system. But I wouldn't give up my 809 series with a manual trans!
A 939 bolster truck would be cool, I've never even seen a 815
 

Jakelc15

Active member
718
37
28
Location
Hanover Pa
I have a hydraulic valve from a bulldozer. It's a 4 bank. Was blade up/down w/ float, blade angle, blade tilt, rear winch.
I'm using it as plow up/down/float, plow angle, wetline out the rear for my dump trailer and rear winch.
The valve has a main relief valve and the winch section has it's own relief valve. So I can run the plow and dump trailer at 2000 psi and lower the winch down to just below breaking shear pins.
I guess I'll make some 5 ton sheer pins. I made some to spec at work for the Deuce I had but they don't do me any good now.
 

m16ty

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Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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I wouldn't fool with a shear pin. Just set your relief to open at max pull and be done with it.

That's the beauty of hyd, you can set the pressure at the relief and not have to worry about breaking anything and won't have to replace shear pins.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
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Cincy Ohio
No need to make the 5ton shear pins. Doghead has a big box full of them and sells them for a reasonable price. Might want to PM him.
 

Jakelc15

Active member
718
37
28
Location
Hanover Pa
Winch input shaft seal info for m809 and m939 20,000 lb winches

5330-01-150-9691
Mil # 17657/55-542465 and 12200656
National/Timken # 450291 or 450291VG
Skf CR seal # 17653
2.875x1.75x.4375 per mil spec
Single lip nitrile seal
National seal is actual .468 w
SKF seal is actual .375 w

Skf alternative 17645 double lip
Seals are 2.879 od for press fit
Skf speedi-sleeve 99174
 

Jakelc15

Active member
718
37
28
Location
Hanover Pa
I worked on this a little today.
Made the mount for the hydraulic motor to drive the winch. Put the PTO on a few days ago. I think I'm going to try to find a rear accessory drive to put the pump at the rear. More room toward the rear. Anyone have one?
I tried to top off the gear oil and found the drum seal leaking.
Hope to get the hydaulic tank fabbed up this week


Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 

Jakelc15

Active member
718
37
28
Location
Hanover Pa
It is just a little smaller than ideal. It actually makes more torque than the 939 series motor. It is slower than the 939 though. Should produce a 19,000-20,000 lb pull and will take 18 min. to pay out 200' of cable.
 

Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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2,220
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Location
Sunman Indiana
It looks like you're running a 1:1 ratio on your sprockets?
If your motor has more torque but less speed, have you thought about over-driving it, to balance the difference out? Maybe to the point where you don't have to regulate the pressure down?
 
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