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Mixed used oils for fuel

red

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I have access to a mixture of waste oils and haven't been able to find much info on these for fuel in a LDT465.

Gear oil (90wt)
Hydraulic oil
Diesel engine oil

These are mixed in storage containers, rough numbers would be 40% gear, 40%engine, 20% hydraulic oil. Would this be a viable option for fuel after being filtered and thinned with diesel fuel? The gear oil is my big concern (what I can't find info on), being how thick it is.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Yup, mix it down so it is close to the consistency of diesel and you should be good to go.

Just saw your location, cutting it down might not be needed since your in a warm state.
 

fuzzytoaster

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Filter it, get the water out, and burn it. If it seem to thick during the winter cut it with some diesel/gas but really it should be fine most of the year here in Texas.
 

red

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Great to hear. Was thinking a 3 filter setup with a water separator. 30, 10, 2 micron and pulling the oil from the top to the tank, leaving the bottom 6" or so.
 

Jeepsinker

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Think more along the lines of: 30 or 40 mesh screen filter, 10 or 12 micron filter with water separator, 5 or 6 micron filter, then a 2 micron. You'll get longer filter life and better serviceability this way. Whatever filters you decide to use, it is good practice to always have a mesh screen filter in line before all the filters. You can get them at tractor supply in the plumbing and agriculture fittings section. They should be right next to the sprayers and pumps and such.
 

Jeepsinker

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Also, your draw height depends on the size tank you are using. My 600 gallon tanks collect 4-6" of water in the bottom fairly quickly just from condensation. The smaller the tank, the less quickly and badly they collect water.
 

Wildchild467

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Great to hear. Was thinking a 3 filter setup with a water separator. 30, 10, 2 micron and pulling the oil from the top to the tank, leaving the bottom 6" or so.
That is pretty much how my system works using hydraulic filters. After i fill my converted 25 gallon propane tank, i pressurize it with air and that pushes the oil through the filters instead of using a hydraulic pump. I find it is more efficient than using an electric motor/pump. Plus with air, you can control the oil pressure on your filters. Another key thing i learned with my system is your hydraulic filter bases HAVE TO BE THE KIND WITH NO BYPASS AT ALL. Even a little oil will seep by these bypasses as your filters become more clogged and you will notice it will make you go through filters on your truck. Also, before you fill that tank with oil from the storage tanks, it helps when the oil sits a while before you filter it. this allows all the water and particulates to settle to the bottom of the storage tanks. so don't move those tanks around and let gravity do a lot of your filtering for you.


So lessons learned from my system:

-use hydraulic filer bases with NO BYPASS VALVE AT ALL
-use air pressure to push the oil through your filters. as filters clog/cold temperatures thicken oil, it may filter A LOT slower... maybe even only drip. Air allows you to save money by not using electricity to power a pump and no pump out there will pump only a few drips a minute unless you have pressure relief valves and what not. Air is the best.
-Let gravity do your work. before you fill up your pressure rated tank (converted air tank, propane tank, etc) fill it with oil that has been sitting a while and never pull off the bottom of the tank where the sludge is.
- Put drains and ball valves on everything. If you have a drain on the bottom of a tank and it is a ball valve, put a plug in the other end of the drain ball valve for extra security in case the valve gets bumped. Also these drains on the tanks make a good periodic check to make sure you do not have water in your system.
- If somebody says they have a 55 gallon drum and it has all used oil in it and no water at all.... it will still have water at the bottom. 99% of the time every 55 gallon drum of used oil i have gotten has had water in the bottom. i believe it has to do with condensation of air into water at the top of the oil. warm humid air gets to the to of the cold oil in the drum, it condensates and goes to the bottom of the oil drum. so the key is to cap off these large oil containers.
- Mice love to drown in used oil. I dont know why, but they love to fall in used oil tanks and drown. so screen your before it goes into your tanks if you don't know if there might be a mouse or sludge in the oil bucket. for example: somebody gives you a 5 gallon bucket full of oil. they say it does not have water in it and it is all clean. don't trust them... it will bite you some day. when you pour oil into your holding tanks, pour it through a window screen. you will be amazed at what comes out. its better to catch a dead mouse in a screen than to have it get clogged in a drain valve. Dead mice are NASTY.


I hope this helps. These are all my lessons learned. I am very happy with my system and it took several variants of my design to fine tune it to where I am happy with it. it does cost money to build, but if you do it once and are happy with it, that makes all the difference. If you are happy with it, and it works well, that is the main thing.
 

Wildchild467

Well-known member
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Location
Milford / Michigan
Also, your draw height depends on the size tank you are using. My 600 gallon tanks collect 4-6" of water in the bottom fairly quickly just from condensation. The smaller the tank, the less quickly and badly they collect water.
I agree 100% Water always gets in large tanks like that.
 

Wildchild467

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,052
57
48
Location
Milford / Michigan
Think more along the lines of: 30 or 40 mesh screen filter, 10 or 12 micron filter with water separator, 5 or 6 micron filter, then a 2 micron. You'll get longer filter life and better serviceability this way. Whatever filters you decide to use, it is good practice to always have a mesh screen filter in line before all the filters. You can get them at tractor supply in the plumbing and agriculture fittings section. They should be right next to the sprayers and pumps and such.
I agree here as well. Serviceability is the key to making the system user friendly. I screen the oil before it goes in my main pressure/filtering tank and i have drains on everything (except my pressure tank and i really need to get one put on it) in case of water intrusion. Ball valves are great to have because you never know what will have to be taken apart to service the system. Also if anything is under pressure, use good hose with good clamps, you don't want to have a blow out. In colder temps, use hose bigger than 1/2". the hoses on my system are 3/4" and any suction hose is 1". Oil does not like to move at all when it is 50 degrees. Shear strength is amazing.
 

red

Active member
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Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
Agreed, trying to save money on fuel, don't want to lose the savings buying filters constantly.

Currently there is over 1000 gallons sitting there, mixed.

Have some 55 gallon drums that I'm thinking of using with the setup.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
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