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Mntsnow's recovery and building of The Beast

Scott88M

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Those cameras/monitors look great. I might consider the same setup eventually. I'm picking my truck up next Friday, funny thing yours had flat fronts mine has a couple flat rears.
 

MtnSnow

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I'd guess a leaking brake diaphragm.

Engine off and aired up, have someone else hold down the brake pedal while you listen at each one.
Or it might be the ABS/limiter valve at the front of the truck as that also happened to a member here just last week.. When I was looking for leaks (only found one very minor one in the constant supply side (which I did fix) and did find one hose on the passenger side front (rear most hose on the frame) that has some slop in the fitting (swivel?) but the nut is tight..

Anyways with Wife aka Soldier B being ill today I wasn't able to do the demand/supply air side testing so I just tiddy'd up the wiring I did for the Monitor & Digital voltage meter this afternoon.... she doesn't get to park in the garage until she plays soldier B for me! lol
 

MtnSnow

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Found that the ABS/limiter valve was bad. (the plastic sealing balls had cracked and broken apart) I was pretty sure it was what was bad so I ordered a replacement and that arrived in the mail today. I'll hit the parts store in the morning to get a couple of new air line compression fittings and some air line as one of the existing lines has been severly overtightened and thus ruined that air line upon removal as it twisted while working on switching them out tonight when I got home from work. But I should have it back on the road for the weekend.
 

MtnSnow

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Back on the road! Hit one of the local Semi truck service places and got the needed 1/2" OD synflex air line and a couple of replacement air line connectors so I could do away with the original brass ferule type connections on the line I had to fix. Down the road I'll start working on replacing all of the lines as a preventative measure.
 

MtnSnow

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Finally got some time to work on the beast today.
First, I fixed two very small air leaks on the CTIS controller inside the cab on the bulkhead next to the transmission shifter column (one was the black box (pressure sensor) with the electrical connector on it that is next to the two air lines of which the 2nd leak was on one of them).
Next I bumped the fuel rate at the top screw by 3 turns and tightened the governor springs 4 clicks but I think I'm going to back them off a click or two as it's now idling at 850rpm but it will now rev to 2650rpm when parked. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow and see how it performs under load.

On the agenda for tomorrow, I plan on jacking up the front end and testing to see if the transfer case/front axle plumbing is correct (I think it is but want to make sure) and if not correct I figure I will just plumb the dash front axle switch directly to the transfer case front Axle Engagement Air Cylinder which is on the back side of the transfer case (next to the parking brake cable's lever) and totally get rid of the auto-engagement switch
 
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davo727

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Sounds good, feel free to give part numbers and pics of these updated items :)


Back on the road! Hit one of the local Semi truck service places and got the needed 1/2" OD synflex air line and a couple of replacement air line connectors so I could do away with the original brass ferule type connections on the line I had to fix. Down the road I'll start working on replacing all of the lines as a preventative measure.
 

MtnSnow

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Davo,

Yes I can see the monitor quite good during the daytime. where I have it mounted I have yet to have the screen wash out from sunlight.

As for your other question about airline sizes mainly 1/2" and 3/8" is what I have needed to deal with so far but I do see some vent lines like the fuel tank and such that look to be 1/4"...as for total feet needed I don't know yet....lol

Edit - The abs limiter valve that was leaking air that I had to replace was/is a Bendix LQ-2 Limiting Quick Release Valve found at the front of the truck in the center just forward of the pumkin.
 
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MtnSnow

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Well the transfer case is working just fine so all I did was pull the "big washer" so the auto-engagement when placing the transfer case into low is bypassed.

Driving the truck back over to my storage place I can say I do like the increased responsiveness that it has from bumping the fuel but I think I'm going to purchase higher RPM governor springs as I don't like the high idle speed from tightening the springs and I couldn't get it to adjust down unless I put the springs back to the stock setting. Off to find out what springs and what is involved in changing them...
 

MtnSnow

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Well today was a productive day. First I finally got the rusty fuel strainer section off of the fuel tank (took Heating it with Mapp gas torch AND an air chisel to get it to finally turn!) It had some type of thread sealant/pipe dope on it.. Anyways inside the tank looks good! (whew!) Tomorrow it's supposed to rain so I have the regular fuel cap on it of course but I'm headed over to a friends shop so I can use his sandblaster to clean up the inside of the fuel strainer. I was able to do the outside of it with a wire brush pretty good. Then on to my next project as some of my ordered parts arrived on Friday (PacBrake GSK) and today (2 gauges) so I got back to work.
I Well I have to say I am totally happy that I went with the Pakbrake 3k/4k GSK (Governor Spring Kit) # hp10029 includes springs to do either 3k or 4k. I used just the 3k set of spring and set it like they suggested (.040-.050) I ended up with .042 and .046 for my settings) and my idle is perfect at 600-650rpm and my RPM hits 2800 spot on!

Here is a short vid of it running/reving...sorry for the parking brake alarm in the background

So final setup at this time for bumping up the power on my 8.3 is 3.5 turns on the top fuel screw and the PacBrake GSK using just the 3K springs and no over-preloading of the springs which gives me 2800rpm.

The I proceeded to play contortionist and also installed a new battery/voltage gauge as well as the new transmission temp gauge. I have to say they were a pain in the butt as my dash does not want to come out so I had to do them twisting my hand(s) up behind the dash and do it mainly by feel. Ohh and I think I found a slight leak on the hose(s) going to the gauges as while I was doing the other gauges I could hear a very very faint sssshhh...lol

Eventually I want to get the dash out completely so I can replace the Coolant temp gauge and touch up the other working gauges and of course while at it repaint the dash nicely as well as check those air line fittings on the gauges & spring brake override so Question...
Is there any helpful tips/secrets on how to get the dash out/removed??
 

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MtnSnow

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Not planning on doing those speeds since the tires are only speed rated for 55! but I am one of those that like a bit more available on tap even if I don't always use it :driver:
 

MtnSnow

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None at all. Just have to be smart about it. Keep the cap on so no direct flame into potential flammable fluids. Heat only the part you want to expand a touch and of course don't heat it to red hot levels...Just some heat to help free it up. Working on diesel fuel tanks is much safer than working on gasoline tanks in this regard.
 
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