More engine problems (Documentation of testing fuel system, failure of Hyd Head)

[patracy]

I couldn't see the red mark on my gear either. But there's a line on the tooth at least though.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Like this

 

[gimpyrobb]

Ehh, its hard to see with the dropped resolution. Maybe I can get a pic of a different HH.

 

[m-35tom]

You have to know the #1 cyl is on compression stroke, TDC. (both valves loose, #6 valves at overlap) Then line up the timing pointer on the IP (under the cover with 4 bolts). Now turn the engine backwards 20° exactly. (my bad earlier, it is 20°) That puts the plunger at the bottom of it's stroke, and lines up the notch in the drive gear cover. All this assumes it was a running, propperly timed engine to begin with. Even if the tooth is no longer red and many are not, there is a fine scribe line in the center of the tooth. You need a mirror and a light to see it.


edit: I looked at one of my old IP's that is apart to determine that the HH has 30 teeth, so 10° apart and since it turns at camshaft speed, that is 20° crank degrees.

 

[dutchguy]

I can tell you from experience that the line, or red tooth, on the HH driven gear, shown in Gimpy's photo (not the IP timing mark) needs to be EXACTLY lined up with the pointer, or you will pooch the stamped piece covering the drive gear that seems to be intended to keep you from screwing this up. And ditto the #1 cylinder on compression TDC.

 

[orren]

You have to know the #1 cyl is on compression stroke, TDC. (both valves loose, #6 valves at overlap) Then line up the timing pointer on the IP (under the cover with 4 bolts). Now turn the engine backwards 60° exactly. (my bad earlier, it is 60°) That puts the plunger at the bottom of it's stroke, and lines up the notch in the drive gear cover. All this assumes it was a running, propperly timed engine to begin with. Even if the tooth is no longer red and many are not, there is a fine scribe line in the center of the tooth. You need a mirror and a light to see it.

Thanks Tom for the info. Unfortunately, I can't even see the scribe line either with good light and a mirror.
How do you know you have moved the engine 60*? Would it work if I moved the engine ahead 300* so
I can use the starter to move it?

Thanks for your patience.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Better pic

 

[patracy]

Thanks Gimp, that's what this thread needed!

 

[RAYZER]

Better pic

Some of his girl friends red nail polish

 

[m-35tom]

Thanks Tom for the info. Unfortunately, I can't even see the scribe line either with good light and a mirror.
How do you know you have moved the engine 60*? Would it work if I moved the engine ahead 300* so
I can use the starter to move it?

Thanks for your patience.

No that would not work at all, you would be out of time 180° at the HH. Now I am wondering if I remember how many teeth are on the HH, so 60° may be wrong. My brain is getting rusty, I'll look it up tomorrow to be sure.

 

[jsthnt@gmail.com]

Thanks for the info. This might be what is wrong with General Granite. I have been losing power slowly since I have got it and I have tried everything that I could do cheep. I even added a turbo thinking that might help. I will have to save my pennies and try a new HH.

 

[gimpyrobb]

No that would not work at all, you would be out of time 180° at the HH. Now I am wondering if I remember how many teeth are on the HH, so 60° may be wrong. My brain is getting rusty, I'll look it up tomorrow to be sure.

I can count the teeth on the one in the pic once I wake up later.

 

[m-35tom]

orren, see post #103, it is now correct. Another way is that when you are positive you are at TDC of the compression stroke of #1 cyl and have the IP timing mark lined up, there should be a tooth lined up with the little cast pointer in the shutoff window. If this was a running engine, the next tooth to the rear would be the one with the scribed line. So now turn the engine backwards so that tooth is lined up. The easiest way to turn the engine is to put the trans in 5th and the transfer in neutral, and use a bar in the 'u' joint behind the trans.

 

[gimpyrobb]

orren, see post #104, it is now correct. Another way is that when you are positive you are at TDC of the compression stroke of #1 cyl and have the IP timing mark lined up, there should be a tooth lined up with the little cast pointer in the shutoff window. If this was a running engine, the next tooth to the rear would be the one with the scribed line. So now turn the engine backwards so that tooth is lined up. The easiest way to turn the engine is to put the trans in 5th and the transfer in neutral, and use a bar in the 'u' joint behind the trans.

Fixed it for ya!

 

[m-35tom]

Fixed it for ya!

Thanks Chris, I am really getting senile??

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have to write stuff down too!

 

[gringeltaube]

So, did you wake up.....??? ... then FIRST, count the teeth (no, from that gear, of course) .... then post it, and THEN write it down!

G.

 

[gimpyrobb]

If you look at post 104, Tom says it has 30 teeth. I didn't bother counting mine.

 

[welldigger]

Well I discovered my engine is "making oil". Pulled the fuel shut off cover from the IP and kicked on the fuel pump. There was a nice steady drip coming from in there. I knew something wasn't right since it started taking FOREVER for my truck to crank.

Anyways, where is a good source to acquire the 3 o-rings needed to fix this problem? I would call my normal parts stores but they don't believe in being open on Saturdays apparently.

 

[Heath_h49008]

I can't find a great thread for this question, but this thread seems closely related, so here I go.

Ever have a truck "Fix itself" when you didn't think anything was wrong?

This is my first M35A2, but I'm an ASE parts tech and state licensed mechanic. I drove her almost 200 miles home and she was gutless, but the clutch was getting oiled from the milkshake in the trans and she was running on a mixture of god knows what in the tank. Still, she made almost 60mph on the highway and has always run great, and started easily. I noticed a small oil leak, and she was idling too low, (500rpm unless I used the hand throttle to bump it up) and wouldn't free-rev to more than 2500-2600 rpm and while tracking that issue down, I found the governor cover on the back of the injection pump was loose and missing the safety wire. When I tightened the screws and re-wired it, I suddenly got back my idle to 650, and she free-revs to 2800+ in a short pump of the pedal. Never really noticed her missing, knocking etc... life is good. I still have to bump the hand throttle to keep it out of the "death rattle" rpm levels, but so do a lot of guys from what I read.

Wed after she has sat for 5 days, I fired her up and she was the smoothest, most healthy sounding I have ever heard her. She jumped up to 750rpm at idle and just purrrrrs. Took her for a short drive and she has power... I felt like I was driving a truck instead of a tractor for the first time since I've owned the beastie.

The question I have is, what just happened? Stuck injector? Rings reseat? The outside temp was warm... but it's been warmer without this effect. No change in fuel, or anything swapped, and I went under the hood and made sure the throttle lever was all the way forward in its "rest" position. So it isn't the hand throttle sticking.

I'm stumped! I'm not complaining... but I want to know what just happened.

Any help would be appreciated, and if this isn't a good thread for it I will move it or start a new one. (Just wanted to keep the clutter down as much as I can.)