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Moving a 5ton gasser

gimpyrobb

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So lets say you want to move a 5ton gasser from its current location to one thats 4 hrs away. Would you flat tow it with a deuce with the glad hands hooked up(yes the brakes work) or would you try to put 395s on the middle axle, disconnect the rear(DS) and use the airswitch you installed to eliminate the front axle sprague, and hope to get 4mpg?
 

91W350

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Good one Gimpy, I think I would do the deuce tow, probably save on fuel and it is going to be slow either way. How old are the five ton's tires? If they are about down and out, you are not going to want more that 30-35 anyway. I take we are talking a five ton cargo or tractor and not a wrecker.....
 

73m819

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would not tow, even with the air hooked up, still to heavy, will went to push on curves, I would get it hauled, only left with no choice wiuld I drive, don't think doing the tire thing, ect. will help much. my old gasser m52 on 1100s got right at 6 going down the freeway on long trips doing 53/55. 4 mpg is what I get on the 819 around town, no 5t gets great mileage.

EDIT--I'm guessing from the above intel, that this is JWCs gasser that is for sale, that being the case drive it as is,
 
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I am going to add a little clarity to this thread. It wasn't supposed to be a hypothetical question. I was having a phone conversation this morning with gimp about this, and he was seeking more opinions.

The M51 (actually it is no longer a dump truck, but for simplicity we will call it the M51) runs, drives, stops fine. I am potentially delivering the truck to a friend who is going to adopt it. I have no doubt that I could drive the truck for the 300 miles to its new home.

However, I was discussing with gimp if there were other more efficient options that might be possible.



The justification for suggesting to tow instead of drive, is that:
  • will need a vehicle to return home after delivery. The towing vehicle could be used for the return trip, or would need a chase vehicle.
  • The chase vehicle needs to be a pickup truck or larger because the return trip includes hauling a moderate load of parts.
  • Towing may actually be cheaper in fuel cost than driving. May need to do some math here.
The suggestion to put larger tires on one rear axle was to try to gain a little road speed without sacrificing *relative* economy.:wink:
The front axle and other rear axle would be disconnected for the trip. The majority of this trip would be Interstate highway. Easy to swap a couple of tires, right?


Just trying to be efficient, without undertaking undue risk.
 

Chief_919

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I am going to add a little clarity to this thread. It wasn't supposed to be a hypothetical question. I was having a phone conversation this morning with gimp about this, and he was seeking more opinions.

The M51 (actually it is no longer a dump truck, but for simplicity we will call it the M51) runs, drives, stops fine. I am potentially delivering the truck to a friend who is going to adopt it. I have no doubt that I could drive the truck for the 300 miles to its new home.

However, I was discussing with gimp if there were other more efficient options that might be possible.



The justification for suggesting to tow instead of drive, is that:
  • will need a vehicle to return home after delivery. The towing vehicle could be used for the return trip, or would need a chase vehicle.
  • The chase vehicle needs to be a pickup truck or larger because the return trip includes hauling a moderate load of parts.
  • Towing may actually be cheaper in fuel cost than driving. May need to do some math here.
The suggestion to put larger tires on one rear axle was to try to gain a little road speed without sacrificing *relative* economy.:wink:
The front axle and other rear axle would be disconnected for the trip. The majority of this trip would be Interstate highway. Easy to swap a couple of tires, right?


Just trying to be efficient, without undertaking undue risk.
Towbar+ tow your return vehicle behind it.
 

Barrman

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As long as you don't have to do stupid stuff like the north bound I-75 drop into Ohio. Flat tow it. However, based on my flat towing M35's with M35's. 6-8 is all you are going to get with the Duece. Unless you have several barrels of "Gimpy's Own" fuel to use. Drive the 5 ton flat towing the duece. More stable drive, built in self recovery vehicle and if you get really nasty economy out of the Gasser, switch around.

Just take lots of pictures.
 

73m819

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All you guys say "tow with deuce" it is plain UNSAFE to tow a heavier vehicle with a lighter one, the towed vehicle will push the towing vehicle even with the air hooked up, the only time the towed vehicle will have brakes is when the towing vehicle applies the brakes as both work as one, no way to control just the towed vehicle brakes to straighten things out if needed, the towed vehicle will have control in an emergency, and once control is lost, you can not get it back

It is bad enough to flat tow a deuce for a distance with a TB that is NOT designed nor intended for distance or hi speed towing (flat towing is for a short distance, slow speed, emergency only) let alone towing a 5t at speed and a distance, a tremendous mount of stress is put on a TB just using it as intended/designed, Using with speed and distance is so far outside the envelope of intention and design, that at some point failure can be expected, just a matter when, then couple to that failure a towed 5t.

You guys may say i'm a old fuddy duddy, that we do this all the time, just remember the answer " we do this all the time" tends to bite you in the A$$
 
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clinto

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Slingload it under a stolen hot air balloon.

Problem solved.

Make sure to wear gloves.
 

mudguppy

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you should never tow-bar a vehicle heavier than the towing vehicle - period. don't care how many times you've done it w/out incident to date, it's a high risk operation on public roads.

again, the hierarchy of preferred towing methods (as i've been taught) based on risk, in descending order:
  1. Trailer load out
  2. Lift-tow w/ capable wrecker
  3. Tow-bar (slow speed)
  4. Strap / chain / cable (emergency / off-road only operations)
if you read any of the manuals regarding tow-bar operations the stated on-road speed limitation is very low (usually 15 - 30 mph) and never utilizes a tow vehicle smaller/lighter than the towed vehicle.
 

73m819

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I would drive the truck and drag a wheel chock since JWCs truck is fair to good condition , use the wc to bring the parts back
 
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Recovry4x4

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Translation. Ron refers to CUCVs as wheel chocks. His disdain for CUCVs knows no bounds. I rather enjoy my CUCV. Beats a yellow pickup any day of the week and the front seat is lots more comfy to sleep on than an old 819! LOL
 

73m819

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Translation. Ron refers to CUCVs as wheel chocks. His disdain for CUCVs knows no bounds. I rather enjoy my CUCV. Beats a yellow pickup any day of the week and the front seat is lots more comfy to sleep on than an old 819! LOL
BEEN there DONE that, trust me ANYTHING is better then the cab of a 819, and as much as I hate to say it and GOD please FORGIVE me for saying it, even a wc
 
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