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Moving Injector Pump..

Thumper580

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I hate to even ask this question, but with my luck I felt I better. The IP is currently retarded and I want to align the hash marks.
I bought the curvy wrenches and the tool to actually move the IP. Three - 12point nuts are loose.. I have an extension on the IP tool for leverage. Doesn't seem to want to move... When moving the IP are you also turning over the motor? If yes, then that explains the difficulty moving the IP......

Please confirm if this is the case. I assume so since it is connected to the crank by the timing chain. I preferred not to break anything without confirming. Thanks.
 

Barrman

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There is a gasket between the IP and the timing cover. That might be preventing the movement. It will move if all 3 nuts are loose.
 

Gcelevator

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No, the injection pump does not move the engine. Either someone put silicone or some king of gasket maker between the engine and the pump or the nuts are still too tight. It could also be the injector lines preventing the pump from moving or a combination of all together.
 

Thumper580

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If it is loose... It can be a bit difficult to rotate due to the 8 steel lines all locked in. Could need a little tweaking, but watch the preloading of lines. It will not be like a gas engine distributor.

Like wrestling with 8 cats, CAMO
I agree... Eight tight injector lines won't want to move very easily. That's probably the majority of the resistance.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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You don’t need a tool to move the pump, just a breaker bar in a spot that won’t vent or break anything on the pump, use the engine block as a leverage point, your not going to move the pump all that much to advance the timing.
 

Thumper580

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My fear is, not knowing what monkeys had their hands on it before, the hash marks are 3/16-1/4" offset to the retarded side. Concerned if the tight injector lines can handle the amount of rotation without over stressing them. Also if someone put gasket sealer on the IP gasket "gluing" the IP in place.
 

Milcommoguy

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Breaker bar works too. Here's a tool from the Camoteksystems lab I made years ago to tweek pump timing. The two pins fits right into the indexing holes with no slipping or hassle. Takes the fuss and fight right out of those lines. Like RWH states a little is a lot.

IMG_1131.jpg IMG_1133.jpg


Why is it called a breaker bar? CAMO
 

Thumper580

Active member
269
210
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Location
Virginia
Breaker bar works too. Here's a tool from the Camoteksystems lab I made years ago to tweek pump timing. The two pins fits right into the indexing holes with no slipping or hassle. Takes the fuss and fight right out of those lines. Like RWH states a little is a lot.

View attachment 885742 View attachment 885743


Why is it called a breaker bar? CAMO
I have the proper tools. It's more a question of right now my hash marks are 3/16" retarded and whether 8 tight injector lines can take moving the marks 3/16" back into alignment without over stressing them.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Breaker bar works too. Here's a tool from the Camoteksystems lab I made years ago to tweek pump timing. The two pins fits right into the indexing holes with no slipping or hassle. Takes the fuss and fight right out of those lines. Like RWH states a little is a lot.

View attachment 885742 View attachment 885743


Why is it called a breaker bar? CAMO
Is this tool compatible with your blinker assembly system? Does this tool have a users guide? Is this tool 24V compatible, or does it need a power inverter?

😉😜🤪

Great idea. Similar to brake system tools I’ve made. Try using a piece of thick solid steel and drill and thread two screws and insert two screws for similar tool if you don’t know how to weld.

Thanks for sharing.
 

Milcommoguy

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Location
Rosamond, CA
I have the proper tools. It's more a question of right now my hash marks are 3/16" retarded and whether 8 tight injector lines can take moving the marks 3/16" back into alignment without over stressing them.
It should move 1/4" +/- of center and that's a lot of degrees. It can take a little muscle leverage to rotate and hold it there while the lines spring back one way or another. while holding and tightening one of the flange bolts. I don't think this should be all that hard. First time may seem lines are a tweeking a bit... ever so little.

Worried about stressing? Go full advance and bring in back to mark. Pump mounting is slotted, won't go to far.

Now if it were an jet engine, might want to relive the lines stress at the fittings and that's another story IMO.

All timed out, CAMO
 
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