ALFA2
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Those are great looking wheels on that Deuce !
ALFA2
ALFA2
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I did the same thing but rather than screws I just stapled into the centerpoint of the tire, it gave enough of an edge for the tape measure to catch on and pulled out easy when I was done.since i do this by myself, i put a screw in the tread of each tire at the axle level. you can then hook a tape measure on one screw and measure to the other. then roll the truck so screws are at axle level on other side of axle and measure again. instant results.
Yes, just a t-50 staple gun is what I used. You just want to put the staple in about 23" up from the ground on each tire which should be your axle centerline with these 46" tires, measure across to the other wheel's staple and record it, then roll it forward/backward until the staples are again 23" off the ground and measure across again.Take the measurements and subtract the front one from the back one and thats what you are at. .... at this point I guess its up for debate what the best toe in would be for these wheels. I measured mine this summer on the NDT and it was about 1/8"Thanks, that' simple.What kind of staple, t50 from a gun, electrical staple?.Or was that just a stupid question on my part?.
Hi Bones, thanks for the kind words. I actually am a bit behind you. I honestly havent even driven the truck with the wheels yet. Originally had sold my own adapter plates so it took a while before I had some for me again. Other than that I was slowly collecting tools & parts (big torque wrench, 3" axle socket, bearing packer, inner & outer hub seals) for hub flip that I finally just got that done last week. Glad I did it too since I found I had 3 bad seals and 2 brake drums that were covered in grease inside, and one other one that was wet with oil. I never thought the brakes felt good before and this would probably explain why they didnt. I think I used more brake cleaner on this one project that I have in my entire life.... easily 10 cans. A couple cans into the project I decided to stop wasting brake cleaner and use gasoline to pre-clean the drums & hubs. I bought one of those torque multipliers to get the stock wheels off, what a great tool!Excellent. As usual, you are a great help to the folks on here. By the way, your wheel adapters are working perfectly, good job engineering them.Did you have to do the caster mod to stop the swaying, I will start on that this morning.
Good day sir.
Bones, I gave this some thought after your message but just couldnt think of any good way to make new correctly angled (or adjustable) perches for a price reasonable enough to entice folks to buy verses just getting the grinder out or buy the shim kits. But you did motivate me to add this as an option for people: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?98220-MRAP-ADAPTER-PLATES-to-fit-395-85r20-10-Lug-MRAP-Wheels-to-Deuce-2-Styles-Prices&p=1266176&viewfull=1#post1266176On the spring perches I removed all the front metal flush with the center locating notch with an angle grinder and finished up with a bench grinder and file for flatness. Removed about 0.1875 or less from each perch. Since the axle is dimensionally rough from one side to the other, the caster will be a little different on each side. If someone had access to machining equipment, hint, hint, a nice set of cnc machined spring perches, not using the old ones but new material,properly angled and ready to bolt on would go well with your adapters.
Good day sir.
did you take .187 from the high side? I found about .140 takes you back to level on my set. It drives great now, still a slight bit of play in the wheel, but its a truck not a BMW.My brakes were covered in grease and oil as well last year when I replaced them. The insides of the wheel cylinders were full of rust pudding so I replaced all the wheel cylinders, shoes, seals and rubber hoses front and rear as well. Added a remote reservoir while at it. The most difficult part of the brake job was adjusting the shoes and they still need to be a little tighter. On the spring perches I removed all the front metal flush with the center locating notch with an angle grinder and finished up with a bench grinder and file for flatness. Removed about 0.1875 or less from each perch. Since the axle is dimensionally rough from one side to the other, the caster will be a little different on each side. If someone had access to machining equipment, hint, hint, a nice set of cnc machined spring perches, not using the old ones but new material,properly angled and ready to bolt on would go well with your adapters.
Good day sir.
Hey Bones,Two for the front and one for the center rear axle I understand to stop the skipping and hopping when turning