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MTVR air dryer purge valve sticking open

Navy dude

Member
114
21
18
Location
Jenkintown, PA
I'm losing air pressure through the valve on the bottom of my air dryer. I pulled the rubber 90 degree boot on the bottom to gain access, and can push the valve closed to build pressure. when the pressure periodically relieves, the valve sticks open again. I searched all over, wondering if anyone has any fixes in mind or if I can replace the valve (part number) or if that might not solve the problem. If I could find the whole air drier assembly I am sure it is expensive. Maybe I can get lucky and avoid a huge expense....? Please help, and thank you!
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Mason, TN
What air dryer do you have? There are a few variants

Purge valve is held in by a snap ring. Has an o ring on it. Basically lube and reassemble if the oring isn'tjunk. This was an issue on the 5 ton air dryers.

Post a pic of your dryer and I can tell you what purge kit you need
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
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Location
Georgia
You need the MTVR annual service kit that rebuilds both your aftercooler and drier.

Air hits the aftercooler first and hits the drier second. I have part numbers for the service kits at home


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Navy dude

Member
114
21
18
Location
Jenkintown, PA
1601597000106.jpeg
Truck is stored away from home, but snapped this pic today, maybe you can tell the model..? Thanks for the rapid responses. I’ll look up those part numbers, you guys are great!
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
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Georgia

I touch on it vaguely in my video, that specifically in your picture is your aftercooler for the air system, it has a purge valve, and your drier itself has a purge valve.


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MAdams

Active member
380
127
43
Location
San Dimas, CA
This washer gets a groove pressed into it from sitting and can no longer seal. I temporarily greased it and added a shim behind it to get me home


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Navy dude

Member
114
21
18
Location
Jenkintown, PA

I touch on it vaguely in my video, that specifically in your picture is your aftercooler for the air system, it has a purge valve, and your drier itself has a purge valve.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was just going to write that after Elijah sent the numbers I pulled up the parts online. I do see it is the aftercooler.... this is all new to me. So thanks again. Does the fact that is is the aftercooler stuck valve change my course of action? Buy both kits and install should fix the issue? Man, I have been excited, due to so many hoops it took nearly a year from the time I won the truck until I got it legally on the road. Hopefully this will be what I need, was hoping there might be a quick trick but that is never the way. By the way, the truck is a 2002, but is 2011 overhaul if that might mean anything to you as far as the model, Wes, thanks. Excellent video too, understand the basics a bit after watching.
 
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Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,184
113
Location
Georgia
I was just going to write that after Elijah sent the numbers I pulled up the parts online. I do see it is the aftercooler.... this is all new to me. So thanks again. Does the fact that is is the aftercooler stuck valve change my course of action? Buy both kits and install should fix the issue? Man, I have been excited, due to so many hoops it took nearly a year from the time I won the truck until I got it legally on the road. Hopefully this will be what I need, was hoping there might be a quick trick but that is never the way. By the way, the truck is a 2002, but is 2011 overhaul if that might mean anything to you as far as the model, Wes, thanks.
Yes, don’t do just one, service both at the same time. Less headache. Takes about an hour to do both.


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Navy dude

Member
114
21
18
Location
Jenkintown, PA
Just a quick follow up. I got both the aftercooler and air dryer rebuild kits, will get to those this week. The main issue was my aftercooler purge valve not seating back fully after the purge, and then air pressure continuing to fall. I bought a new aftercooler purge valve as well, about 30 bucks. Since it looked like the easiest fix to make, I slapped it in in about 5 minutes. I didn't have a 1" allen wrench so used a 1" nut to extract the old valve and re install the new. I packed a bit of paper towel as wadding in my socket and did the same in the valve itself otherwise the nut I used would fall in one way or the other and not have enough bite to turn the valve. It works like a champ now. For reference the part is Haldex RN60F purge valve kit for pure air.

The old valve spring seemed fine, and the two o rings were intact. The new kit comes with the proper grease and instructions call for lubing both o rings and the piston itself. The piston was clean but completely dry... its quite possible that the old valve would still work had I simply lubed it up but not taking any chances.... no fun watching air pressure continue to drop on the road, and having to exit the truck and manually push valve back in to hold pressure long enough to get home.
 
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Navy dude

Member
114
21
18
Location
Jenkintown, PA
I am not sure about the sealing washer you took a picture of. If that is inside the valve assembly of the aftercooler, I didnt take it apart as the new valve assembly came as a unit. I wasn't sure if what you have pictured came from the aftercooler or the actual air dryer. Either way I saw no milky-ness in the valve or piston. It looked newish, clean and bright. My truck was an oshkosh overhaul with no miles on it, maybe the aftercooler had been addressed at some point already, although obviously wasn't working properly!

I'll respond more helpfully once I pull the air dryer apart and install rebuild kit.
 
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