• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

MTVR Manuals

patracy

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
14,640
4,820
113
Location
Buchanan, GA
I can put you in contact with TASCOM if you want to see if they'll remove them from restriction. They certainly have no problem contacting me when there's something posted up that is restricted.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,724
19,776
113
Location
Charlotte NC
I can put you in contact with TASCOM if you want to see if they'll remove them from restriction. They certainly have no problem contacting me when there's something posted up that is restricted.
.
Whatever information you might want to share - maybe as a PM? - and I will be happy to call or email or both asking. You know... With the southern sweet tea drawl and blessin' their little pea pickin hearts for their help. :) Worst they can do is say no.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,724
19,776
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Looks like there might be an issue with the air lockers.
.
Bummer.

Maybe some gauges in line to see if you are getting air. Definitely hard to fix what you don't have information on. Wonder if there is a box on the frame that feeds the lockers? I thought I had read somewhere that most of the air system in those trucks used "factory" standard parts... Not made special for the military possibly.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,724
19,776
113
Location
Charlotte NC
They quit again. I'll advise. It will be a few days before I can work on it.
.
Wonder if something simple like corrosion in the air actuators or maybe general crud got in the system? Maybe a few drops into the lines back at the differentials and maybe a drop or two at the 3 lines on the firewall would limber it up a bit? You know how it is, truck made it to the sidelines and maybe got used here and there - and she had no real "owner" so nobody drained the air tanks. Maybe something simple like moisture is the source of the problem and a little oil will limber it up.
 
Last edited:

Hypecannon

New member
6
3
3
Location
Az
Just now seeing this. Most of the MTVR manuals are on CD in the newer Interactive Electronic Technical Manual format. They did release some PDF type manuals when the trucks first come out. Let me look around when I get to work tomrrow and I may be able to help. I know I can get the IETM version but it takes some getting used to when it comes to navigating those vice the old type manuals. I know I have the operators stuff but I'm sure your looking for the maintenance manuals.
I’m looking for the electrical for troubleshooting my rear end lights will not come on everything else as far as the lights works on the front blinkers headlights inside just the rear are not coming on looking for troubleshooting step-by-step guide please thank you in advance
 

Hypecannon

New member
6
3
3
Location
Az
Sorry for the late response. To answer a few....

the manual I posted is more of an operator manual

electrical and wiring diagrams are really not available to the average joe. You need an Oshkosh laptop, which we had in the Marines, to really diagnose any real issues. The days of fixing stuff with a light pointer are gone.

I posted the manuals serval times on this board and was told by the moderators that they may take them off. So if they are not on this site then they took them down even though they realease these trucks to the public. To me it is a safety issue and owners should have a manual or they could possibly kill someone.

I was in the Marines for 24 years and just retired within the past year. I grabed a electronic version of the manual while they were still handing them out there disk. Now it’s all laptop and computers to fix trucks.

also, if the ECU on the side of the CAT motor is shot, the truck won’t start no matter what you do. last I check they are a few thousandto replace
I’m looking for a electrical troubleshooting manual for the MK 23 I could send you my email if the administrators won’t allow you to give it to me I really need help in this area thank you in advanceMost likely it’s a ground issue the rear lights won’t work a few other little electrical problems but nothing else everything else is good
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,724
19,776
113
Location
Charlotte NC
I’m looking for a electrical troubleshooting manual for the MK 23 I could send you my email if the administrators won’t allow you to give it to me I really need help in this area thank you in advanceMost likely it’s a ground issue the rear lights won’t work a few other little electrical problems but nothing else everything else is good
.
So, if the problem really is a grounding issue a good way to troubleshoot that is with a length of 14 gauge wire. Maybe about as long as your truck... Take that piece of wire and go directly to one of the ground posts. Preferably the one that attaches to the truck frame. You can attach it with a pair of vice grips - or buy yourself a set of replacement clips for a small battery charger. I have seen them in the local parts houses - maybe you will too.

Battery Clips 01.jpg Battery Clips 02.jpg

Attach one to each end of your wire. Attach your piece of wire with the clips on it and drag the other end to the back of the truck. On the back of the tail light, I would expect to see a bolt - maybe not - I don't own a 7-Ton :-( If you don't have a bolt to clip the ground wire to, remove the light cover. The metal sockets that hold the bulb is metal. Attach your test ground to the outside of that socket and see what happens. If it really is a grounding problem you should see light. If not, the bulb could be bad. There are a couple of lights and sockets so all of them should light up.

IF YOU REALLY have a grounding problem, the bulbs should be dark. Not exactly black, but not bright and clear.

If you suspect a bad bulb, go steal one out of a working front light - and see what happens. If that doesn't work, take the bulb from the back and test it in the front of the truck. If the back bulb works up front at least you proved the bulb to be good.

----

So, you mentioned a ground. If the stuff above didn't solve anything it may be time to start at one of the back lights and follow the wire to the front. You might have a pinched wire or a cut wire. It is a pain, but it needs to be verified.

Guessing that you have already looked in the fuse block / circuit board to make sure that you have "no empty holes" or missing breakers? A lot of these trucks need for that board to get cleaned really well. BE SURE to DISCONNECT your batteries before cleaning with Contact Cleaner. That will be the best $5 you ever spent. It might even be worth removing each breaker one-by-one and scrubbing them with a tooth brush or a brass brush.

One other thing: Under the dash is the flasher on that truck. Not sure why, but I have seen two that were crumbling under there. Worth a look...
 
Top