Multifuel engine filter interchange chart

[bills79jeep]

Why isin't this a problem with gasoline engines? I have never heard of anythink like this in a car.

 

[Monster Man]

I'd think it would be a problem in a fuel injected vehicle to a certain extent. Fuel injected cars are running like 50psi though, and with return lines (I'm not sure the deuce has any) so that's probably the difference. With carbs it's no big deal because the float bowl compensates for all the air pockets, and boy is there air in a mechanical pump/carb system! Dirt also won't damage a carb the way it will an injection pump

 

[cranetruck]

From my notes and observations over the years:

Change your fuel filters every 200-300 hrs. Clogged fuel filters will give your engine less umph (=not reach full rpm with "gas" pedal floored with engine loaded).
The primary should be drained often, at least weekly. It traps water. You should be able to clean and re-install the primary filter.

Water will not mix with diesel, but sink to the bottom. You may want to open the drain on the tank itself to check for water. In cold weather it will turn to ice.

Water is very bad for the injectors, a drop of water will instantly turn to steam and can damage them.
By-passing the density compensator will not increase the efficiency of the engine, no difference in mpg's. The fuel delivery may increase some. I don't see any reason for bypassing it unless it is a source of trouble. Increase fuel delivery with adjustment screw instead and benefit from the compensator. It increases the amount of fuel if the density is less than that of diesel to keep the engine power output the same.

I agree that mixing fuels is much better than running on any one by itself (except for diesel).

My mpg is about 9.5 empty (16,000 lb) and about 8.5 with M103/M105 trailer. 10 mpg is entirely possible for these trucks.

The engine is more efficient when operated at 185 deg F compared to 170 or so. Use your radiator/winter cover at ambients below 40. Change coolant every 1-2 years.

I could go on, but this should be enough to chew on for a while.

 

[Westech]

Yes!! the cover is a must!! I just drove to the G/F's house in Oshkosh ( about 100 miles away) and boy did I suck the fuel!! I never got it up over 140 till I was almos home and it went up to 160 and what a differnce. It went from 50 - 55 mph to maxed out the spedo after it got a little warm. I cant wait till summer and I can get the thing hot and see what it can really do. over 60 mph at 2700 rpm and it sounded great!

 

[cranetruck]

My engine would not be happy at all at 140, I'd never hear the last of it. If you don't have the radiator cover yet, just take a piece of plywood, drill a few holes and tie it in. Find the right winter covers on ebay for 30 bucks or so. Well worth it!

 

[Deuce-bigalo]

Wow - as usual, you guys are walking encyclopedias about the deuce!! I personally am amazed the amount of information there is to learn about these trucks and still even more amazed by the wealth of information each of you has!! Thanks alot for answering my 'stupid question' - now I know about the multi-fuels capabilities!

John

 

[Kaiserjeeps]

Hey guys, I noticed you are using Fram oil filters. You might want to read this oil filter study. Simply put Fram is absolute junk. :skull:
Here is the link
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html



Here is a new addition. I have not read all of it yet.



http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/



I would hate to see you guys develop damage in your engines. Check out the articles. Pretty good reading.

Have a good weekend.

 

[Recovry4x4]

No Frams on my junk! I prefer Baldwins but use Wix when I can't find Baldwins.

 

[Desert Rat]

Same here! Fram has the best marketing but just a shell for a filter, no element to speak of at all. I use Bosch on the cars and Balwin on 'Storm. Truck pro ran out so I'll have to use Wix this time. Oh well, better than a Fram. 81% of what you buy in a Fram is marketing stratigies to get you to buy more Fram junk.

 

[bomar76]

In response to a statement about algae in fuel, this was asked:

Why isin't this a problem with gasoline engines? I have never heard of anythink like this in a car.




Because there are little furry things that just LOVE to flourish in diesel fuel that don't live at all in gasoline.

In any enviorment where diesel sits for an extended time (boats are notorius for this) the little critters can grow.

A great argument for buying fuel from high volume outlets (another good reason is you will get winter blend fuel when you need it) that don't have diesel laying around in the storage tanks forever.

Algae will happily grow in your vehicle tank too if you let it set long enough, so another great reason to take your trucks out and drive them frequently. Fresh fuel is a good defense aganst plant life.

If you pull your filters and find black goo in them it's a sign of algae.

Diesel Fuel Biocides are available just about everywhere for that problem...but even the dead algae will clog filters.

 

[bomar76]

No Frams on my junk! I prefer Baldwins but use Wix when I can't find Baldwins.

I am a Fram nonbeliver also.



I had a Fram oil filter split and dump 5 quarts of oil on the highway in a nearly new car.



If they came with a free $100 bill they would be overpriced.

 

[baja_power]

I am a Fram nonbeliver also.



I had a Fram oil filter split and dump 5 quarts of oil on the highway in a nearly new car.



If they came with a free $100 bill they would be overpriced

[color=#000000></FONT>[/i]

<FONT][/color]If you P!ss me off again, I will buy a fram and install it the next time you drive it :devil:





:tongue:

 

[Monster Man]

By-passing the density compensator will not increase the efficiency of the engine, no difference in mpg's. The fuel delivery may increase some. I don't see any reason for bypassing it unless it is a source of trouble. Increase fuel delivery with adjustment screw instead and benefit from the compensator. It increases the amount of fuel if the density is less than that of diesel to keep the engine power output the same.



[/quote]
very solid advice. The whole time, I thought the reason for bypassing was for efficiency, but I heed all advice from the guy that knows his deuce in and out and has done tests on everything.


So maybe mine was bypassed because it is malfunctioning? I'd like to be able to run anything if I have to, so maybe I better check out my compensator

 

[cten]

Do these look like the correct Baldwin part #'s.

PF902-secondary fuel
PF906-primary fuel
Air filter-PA1620
Oil Filter-P20-HD

Regards,

 

[cten]

Does anyone have a part# that is good for this item?

M35
Fuel Filter - Pre-heater
10935646
2910-00-884-1211

Do not know if this may help anyone also.

Donaldson Filters

Secondary Fuel x 2 P550540
Primary Fuel P553261
Air Filter P181107
Oil Filter x 2 P550132

 

[Longhunter7]

BTT!

 

[bomar76]

I took the GREAT info that Lance (Monster Man) posted from MV mag on filter interchanges and redid it into an .xls (Excel) spreadsheet to make it more userfriendly.
The Primary filter chart is sadly lacking though even on mine for interchanges.
I can't post .xls file here, so if anyone wants a copy email me (bomar76@hotmail.com) and I will send you a copy.
Need more primary filter # to add to the chart, and would happily add air filter and flame heater filter listing to it also.

 

[jasonjc]

A note on the compensator i read/hard some where that the army depot bypass some of them becase of a promly with them leaking fule into the eng and mixing with eng oil (not good) Any one else hear of this or do i need to call mythe busters.




Also i got a set of filters off ebay it had 2 Baldwin PF810 (not PF902)

will these work???

Thanks