MULTIFUEL HARD / NO START

[MILKMAN9211]

Alrighty so I am brand new to the Military Truck scene, so if I do not come across clear, I appologize. I bought an M35A2 not running, probably not the best idea, but they are very hard to come by where I am located in Louisiana and I got it for what I thought was a fair price. The truck had not ran in about 2 years or more and the fuel system was HORRIBLE! Typical "i changed the filters" was nonsense because all three were far from new. I am having issues with getting it up and running and need a little guidance... PLEASE HELP!!! =(

So here are the things I have done so far:

*Cleaned out and removed all rust from all three filter housings and cleared the drains on the housings
*Emptied the fuel tank and cleaned it out several times being sure to try my best to get all surface rust out
*Cleaned the fuel pump and screens around it
*Cleaned out the battery compartment and wrapped all wires in wiring loom and electrical tape since they were beginning to crack
*Changed both grounds to headlights due to dry rot and falling apart
* Replaced all three fuel filters and replaced the gaskets
*Cleaned air filter housing and put a new air filter
*Fresh clean Diesel (10 Gallons)
*Ignition switch bad, bypassed for now with a heavy duty momentary switch (ordered new keyed ignition switch)
*F250 power seats


So I bled all three fuel filters and I can tell the fuel pump is defiantly working! When I crack the bleeder at the top two filters, diesel is plentifully coming out in a strong stream with no air bubbles. I am also hearing and seeing the return line circulating and dumping back into the tank. I checked the fuel lever behind the fuel shut off lever and it was initially at the 6 o clock position. I tried to move it toward the 7 o clock toward the front of the truck however it wouldn't budge. I removed the cover and tried moving it at the fuel plate/armature and was able to work it back and forth, but it was very stiff! I sprayed it all down with some KROIL and it began to get a bit easier but was still pretty stiff. I put everything back together and tried to start it up.... I prepared myself for a run away with a large lid near the intake coming off the turbo and I was very close to needing it! =0 When I hit the ignition, the truck seemed to start almost instantly and immediately went to full throttle like a run away would. I immediately pulled the engine stop and began jumping from the driver seat to prepare to choke it out at the turbo and luckily the truck died when I pulled the stop lever.

I then started seeing a stream of antifreeze spewing from the radiator on the inside portion near the fan blade. I checked before hand and never saw any sort of obstruction and the blades were all in good shape and not bent, still not sure what punctured the radiator.... so I attempted to start it a few more times and got NOTHING at all! I am a youtube mechanic with plenty general skills and knowledge but I feel like I am going down a wormhole with this thing. I also noticed that the FDC bypass had been done on this truck.

Can anyone please give me some advice on what I need to check or where I need to go from here? I think that fuel lever is too stiff and it is just not moving as freely as it should. Really appreciate any help at all you guys! I will post what pics I can to help yall determine my set up. I am also still unsure of the year of this thing =/ but that's something I will figure out later down the line.

 

[Elk1111]

The fuel lever should move easily and freely. Take it apart and clean it till it snaps back and forth easily. The two screws holding it with wire might be too tight or it’s gummed up inside. If the truck started easily but won’t start now you probably lost the button under the hydraulic head. There’s some videos and instructions on this sight about removing the hydraulic head and reinstalling the fuel button. Spray Kroll on everything for a couple days before you start the project. Old parts don’t break free easily.

 

[ODAddict]

Ten gallons isn't much for the truck after it has made its way through the lines and filters. It may be below the pickup line. Is it possible that the truck is merely out of fuel? Before doing a deep dive, it may be easier to add more fuel and bleed the system again.

 

[HDN]

Welcome to the hobby! Unfortunately, I have nothing to contribute to your fuel issues but wish you best of luck. Fortunately there are plenty of multifuel owners here to help!

However, once you get those resolved, I suggest flipping the hubs on the rear axles of the truck if you plan on keeping the singles and carry any meaningful loads in the back. The axles weren't designed to run singles dish-out on the back without the hubs being flipped as they put stress on the wheel bearings that they weren't designed to handle in that configuration.

Nice truck, by the way

 

[Floridianson]

Yeah I do believe you got lucky and that fuel control unit assembly wasn't really stuck hard and the shutdown cable was able to pull it back to the no fuel position. Only once did this happen to me when I was checking out a truck at GL at their yard and hit the starter switch and it took off but I yanked the cable shutdown and she shut down so I got lucky too. As said remove that fuel control unit assembly and leave it soak in something that can eat up tarnish maybe even overnight soak. Then soak it in some kind of lubricant and see if that'll free it up. As said it must move very free after reinstalling the fuel control unit assembly. I'm guessing you might have caught it fast enough and the button is still in place. The shutdown cable does not contact the fuel control unit assembly when you push it in. You might get lucky and it's just lightly stuck in the no fuel position and that's why it won't start.

 

[MILKMAN9211]

Yall have no idea how much I appreciate the input!!! I'm off tomorrow so hopefully I can break down the assembly and get everything free moving. I soaked everything with Kroil last night and this morning. I will update further. Thanks again Elk1111, ODAddict, HDN, & Floridianson.

 

[Floridianson]

Well thank you for the thank you. Something else you might want to do is get some power service injector cleaner plus and double up on the amount used for the amount of fuel you have in a tank. Need to eat some of that varnish tarnish up that gathers on the fuel control unit assembly and the plunger.

 

[MILKMAN9211]

SHE IS ALIVE!!!

So I started off with replacing my original push start button with a CAT Equipment keyed ignition from Am*zon which worked out perfect. Then I soaked everything down around the hydraulic head as suggested and inside the shut off cover and the shut off cable. I found the fuel lever was still moving but took allot of force even after soaking in Kroil 9 days in a row reapplying. I pulled out the fuel lever with the nipple attached to the back which was very tarnished. I cleaned it up and worked it until it broke loose and was moving freely. The hardest part of all of this was not being able to see anything due to the heater blower motor being in the way =/

Luckily after watching a couple Yo*tube videos from Tactical Repair, I was able to get everything lined up as intended and put all back together with safety wire. Everything moved as needed freely, and after 2 start cycles she fired up and purred like a kitten. The diesel exhaust aroma was very satisfying! It built air pressure quick and I didn't hear any major leaks.

Her maiden voyage had to wait however, because I had no brake pressure. Bled the brakes and added some DOT5 to the system and she was ready for her first drive in almost 8 years. Took her down the road and she ran wonderful. Last night I went put 25 gallons at the truck stop and got quite a few head turns.

Thanks again for yall help and input! I am excited to have a running DUECE!

 

[msgjd]

welcome to the fun .. be careful with your "engine stop" lever .. always pull it out E A S Y , try not to yank it hard nor beyond what it takes to kill the engine.. You can lose the fuel button in the HH that way , and those are a PITA to put back in place

 

[MILKMAN9211]

welcome to the fun .. be careful with your "engine stop" lever .. always pull it out E A S Y , try not to yank it hard nor beyond what it takes to kill the engine.. You can lose the fuel button in the HH that way , and those are a PITA to put back in place

NOTED!!!! I definitely am not trying to take that thing apart if not absolutely necessary

 

[msgjd]

NOTED!!!! I definitely am not trying to take that thing apart if not absolutely necessary

it's not a hard job, but it is hard to get at, hard to see the registering mark, hard without a "Soldier B," and certainly a time suck .. Have had to re-button 3 so far ... One was my own fault and two were bought "dead" that way .. If it ever happens to you, there are very helpful posts and pics here on SS ..

You will like your multifuel, they are a good engine in a deuce-and-a-half.. They are well-matched for the job they were designed to do with that truck, including OTR operations... But it's no secret I don't like them in anything bigger

 

[HDN]

it's not a hard job, but it is hard to get at, hard to see the registering mark, and certainly a time suck .. Have had to re-button 3 so far ... one was my own fault and two were bought "dead" that way .. If it ever happens to you, there are very helpful posts and pics here on SS ..

You will like your multifuel, they are a good engine in a deuce-and-a-half, they are well-matched for the job they were designed to do in that truck, including OTR operations... But it's no secret I don't like them in anything bigger

Are there any particular tools that would make this easier? Or any that could be created to help out?

 

[msgjd]

Are there any particular tools that would make this easier? Or any that could be created to help out?

1: Creating a "Soldier B" to bar over the engine is the most helpful thing.. Many of us have little to no access to one when we need it

2: I find a 90-degree compact screwdriver works best for the cover plate when the multifuel is in a deuce.. There's a bit more room to work when it's in a 5T, though, but still a pain to see/work through the louvers in the inner fender

3: A magnetic flashlight (needed in daylight as well) that stays in the right place , yet not interfere with your work

4: Some people R/R the fender to get better access to it, which sure would make things easier, but is time/effort worth it ?

5: Fine red marker to re-highlight the registering mark if it's faded (or missing)

6: Some of the injector line nuts to the upper (back) quadrant of the HH are difficult to access with a regular wrench, one of those deals where it will only turn a hair, flip the wrench, turn another hair, flip the wrench, and on and on, seemingly forever.. I do not know what else would work better for those nuts, not much room for anything there.. Perhaps a split 12-point crowsfoot, or split 12-point wrench bent to 70 to 90 degrees at end ? I didn't experiment, only dealt with it with normal wrench , as slow and tedious as that was .. Maybe the TM Dash-30 has a special tool list . Never looked.