Multifuel not fully warming up, 160 F thermostat

[Rattlehead]

I've seen a lot of various posts, equally divided with some saying their truck is very hard to warm up, and others saying theirs runs up pretty good to 180. Well my deuce has always stayed on the cold side, around 160F, unless I had the cover buttoned up good and was on the highway and in warmer weather, but then you had to babysit it with the cover and/or flap.

I know diesels don't warm up well unless they are loaded. Still, I kept thinking the thermostat must be stuck open or something. However, upon looking at a t-stat out of the engine, it didn't seem like it would be prone to do so. Ordered a new one recently, finally put it in tonight. When I removed it, I looked for how it could be sticking, scratching my head, then I finally noticed that its marked as a 160, whereas the new one is a 180. Duhh, well it was working as designed!

What application would want to run a 160? And I don't believe that sticking in an earlier opening t-stat helps keep an engine cool, as many hot rodders do. After all, whether it opens at 160 or 180, there better be enough radiator capacity to hold it there once it opens or theres another underlying problem.

Anyhow, the 180 is in, and hopefully the multi will be happier running where it is designed to run. I know I will be happier not having to babysit the winterfront cover so much.

Pic didn't turn out in the 160 stamping, but I am posting the t-stat and housing pics just for reference for those who haven't opened one up yet. There is a rubber seal that the t-stat body rides in, and separates the bypass circuit from the full flow circuit. Though there's a big flow path right through the center of the t-stat when it is in the closed position.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Hmmmmm, food for thought. My Deuce doesn't run over 160*, unless like you said it has a load on it. Put that 180* in and tell us if she runs any better.

 

[ida34]

I have had a tstat for a year now. I just need to put it in.

 

[bottleworks]

Mine ran cool unless under load also. I replaced the radiator cap and now it maintains its temp around 180 deg. The old cap was worn out and wouldn't hold pressure. The spring tension on the new cap was a bit higher compared to the old. It is a New Star brand cap.

 

[cranetruck]

Thermostat should begin to open at 180°F and the radiator cap should be 7 psi.
The multifuel runs cool, period.

 

[BFR]

Rattlehead, do you have a personel heater? Mine was installed incorrectly when I got the truck and was effectively bypassing the t-stat. I can tell a noticeable difference in how long it takes to reach operating temps now.

 

[Rattlehead]

I have a personnel heater, but it didn't really matter if flow was going through it or not. Here's a past link of my setup for controlling coolant flow through the heater core, coolant filter, and one empty spot for a water to water heat exchanger, which I plan to run a secondary coolant loop to the camper for air or water heating. Guess that will really test the system out! Might have to start looking for the arctic hood quilt to help keep the motor warm, in addition to the front cover.

http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=10238&highlight=

 

[ida34]

I have a bigger question. Why are you worrying about this on a 70 degree day? This sounds like fall work to me. Spring work should be getting it ready for the trail ride.

 

[mcmullag]

thermostat talk

I wonder about this too. Mine is running 160 degrees.
For best combustion and hoping to not build up deposits on stuff in ther,e of unburned fuels, don't you want the water temp in any engine coolant jacket to be right up there where the engineers designed it to run? Didn't cars in the last 20 years creep up to 195 degree thermostats for fuel efficiency purposes, the complete burn in the cylinder......
I am thinking that is why the correct thermostat is important.

g.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Re: RE: Multifuel not fully warming up, 160 F thermostat

Thermostat should begin to open at 180°F and the radiator cap should be 7 psi.
The multifuel runs cool, period.

So cool, is cool Bjorn?

 

[SasquatchSanta]

RE: Re: RE: Multifuel not fully warming up, 160 F thermostat

mcmullag wrote:

I wonder about this too. Mine is running 160 degrees.
For best combustion and hoping to not build up deposits on stuff in ther,e of unburned fuels, don't you want the water temp in any engine coolant jacket to be right up there where the engineers designed it to run? Didn't cars in the last 20 years creep up to 195 degree thermostats for fuel efficiency purposes, the complete burn in the cylinder......
I am thinking that is why the correct thermostat is important.

I agree 100 percent!

Until I installed an electric fan on and removed the water pump fan I had a heck of a time gettng my deuce to warm up enough so the defrosters would work in the winter up here in cold country. I can tell a marked differents in performance between 160 degrees and above 180. The engine runs smoother and has more scoot at or above 180. I don't start getting nervous until the temp gets above 195. I "think" you're of at 200 BUT I try to stay under 195.

When you stop and think about it, on a cold winters day there is a huge difference in tenperatures, and therefore expansion rates, between the bottom of the piston liners and the fire deck. I can't help but believe that an engine that was broke in (worn in) at a certain temperature suffers when that temperature is lowered 20 or 30 of 40 degrees. It would be ineresting to know the dimensional difference between pistons and cylinder wall taper on a 190 degree engine versus a 160 degree engine.

To my way of thinking this is amplified when an engine isn't allowed to warm up on a cold morning. Not Good.

With the new LDS engine I'll probably have to put the water pump fan back on in the summer BUT the electric fan sure does the trick in the winter.

 

[cranetruck]

Re: RE: Multifuel not fully warming up, 160 F thermostat

....
So cool, is cool Bjorn?

Yes, but when you put the engine to work, the temp creeps up to where it belongs and the thermostat can modulate the temp. Over 195°F the T-stat is fully open and there no real control.
The only time I have had the temp stay over 195 was when hauling a load of lumber up a long 6% (approx) grade with my radiator cover in place.
Long periods of idle or light work will hold the temp below normal op temp.

I keep my custom radiator cover in place at all times except during periods of extra heavy loads.

Don't know how important the proper airflow is around the motor, but read somewhere that just removing the side panels upsets the airflow and shouldn't be done.
A radiator shutter could work, by limiting the flow of air. If you ever hit the road, you'll notice that just driving downhill will change the op temp drastically and was one of the main reasons for installing the radiator cover more or less permanently regardless of season.

 

[Global-M621]

RE: Re: RE: Multifuel not fully warming up, 160 F thermostat

A 160* tstat is probably fore marine applications..
Marine engines that are cooled by seawater must be working at a lower operating temperature because bad tings happen to saltwater at higher temperatures. I think it deposit salt in the engine. If freshwater cooling is used the operating temp should be the same as in a truck.
An engineer at Volvo Penta once told me that the wear on an engine that runs to cool is approximately four times as high as running normal temp.

 

[jim-m35a2]

Mine ran 300 miles and the temp needle never budged off the 162 degree mark. I thought it should be running around 180.

Jim
________
Palco Sports X Five Tactical Blowback

 

[imported_Squirt-Truck]

I continue to be amazed by how much variance we have in these trucks. Squirt is at 180 degrees after 15 minutes and a mile down the road. Two miles and she is at 200 degrees. I run her at 200 for hours on the road, burns clean and runs strong, she will hit 220 in the mountains, does not burp any coolant, and rumbles merrily along. The 200 degree number was where she ran with a full load a few weeks ago, at highway speed. For what its worth, during a long mountain descent, she only cooled to 185 degrees where the thermostat started to control, never got any lower.

Oh well, that is part of the fun of this hobby..

 

[Flea]

Who else besides Bjorn is running a plywood/covered radiator? I've got a cover on mine with about a 4"x12" opening in the radiator, and running around, I still have trouble getting past 160*. I think I'm gonna pull my t-stat this weekend when I change the oil and see if it's 160 vs. 180. Does anyone know if a 190 or 195* t-stat is available? I do 90% unloaded and short-range driving... the higher temp the better, as long as it's below 210-220*. In my experience, diesels love to be operating at or above 200*.

 

[Michael]

I am in the middle of changing my thermostat. I don't seem to have the seal pictured at the top. Also, according to the TM, you are suppose to discard it and replace it. Where do you get the seal? Anybody have a NAPA number?

 

[neilhendrix]

Pulled and repaired the Radiator last week. Leak fixed and boiled out. Replaced ,new compressor belt. Road test for leaks and temp went to 180. I think I even got the fan back on right( thanks MD) .

 

[snoplay]

MINE RAN AT 160F , Turned the IP up 1/2 turn went to 170F all the time, 850F on the pyro loaded and pulling long hill and WOW what performance difference