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My 1984 Chevrolet Suburban K20 4x4 3/4 ton CUCV clone #2 - AKA: M1007 or M1029

K9Vic

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I figured I would start this one from the beginning and follow up each weekend on my building of my second CUCV Suburban clone. It will be in my driveway Saturday May 5th and will begin the process of cleanup and the few mechanical issues. From there it is adding the front and rear CUCV bumpers, shackles and such. I already have the parts and will be adding a M1008 rear bumper again like my first build. However this time I am going to see about working it better so I can keep the class-V receiver hitch. I think I will be able to figure it out, just take my time and plan it well.

1984 Chevrolet Suburban K20, 4X4, 700R4, 6.2L, rear A/C & heat, power windows/locks and bucket seats w/console. The only part I do not like is the rear tailgate as I would prefer cargo doors, but I can deal with it. It also has auto hubs, but those will be replaced real fast with manual hub lockers.

It was a ranch/farm truck that was parked about 2 years ago after it did not start. So the guy was selling it pretty cheap as it did not run, so I snapped it up. He let me work on it at his ranch to see if I could get it started and after about an hour I did. I replaced the fuel filter as there was no fuel in the IP, but the fuel pump was flowing fuel fine when I pulled the line. After that I bleed out the system and had fuel in the IP now and still did not start. Well I knew the wait to start light was not coming on so I knew that the GP system was also an issue and may have been the true cause all along. The filter may have been fine and the fuel just evaporated in the system. Well anyways I do not know the civilian GP system as well as the CUCV, but I did find the relay and bypassed it. After letting the GP warm for about 10 seconds I tried again and it started right away. So pretty much what I did with previous M1009 I bought I had to fix the GP system and all was well. However I pretty sure I am going to have to replace the IP as the glass ball was not in the valve when I looked. I will not know until I can take the cover off to inspect or see how it runs over time. I have a replacement, so not a big deal.

So I will be able to drive it back home and begin Suburban CUCV clone #2 that will actually be a 4X4 3/4 Ton as to what I really wanted the first time but could not locate one for cheap. Well Karma was good to me and I found one.

Short video of it running after sitting for 2 years. Took a while to bleed in, but seemed to be OK.

http://youtu.be/WgFc0NU-qK0

See my first build thread here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?95436-My-1990-GMC-Suburban-CUCV-clone-AKA-M1007-or-M1029

Here are a few pictures, I did not take any real good ones but it gives you the general idea. I will add more over the weekend, will probably just do the mechanical this weekend before I start on the bumpers.

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Crash_AF

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Out of curiosity, why is everyone against the tailgate trucks?

And you're lucky, your truck looks **** good compared to mine. Mine's a half ton, A/C's been taken off, but it has a Banks kit. And it's a tailgate truck. I'm swapping to 3/4 ton axles, buckets to replace the bent bench, and adding in the tinted glass from my parts truck.

Hopefully I'll get the bucket conversion done this weekend. Might try to do the tilt column swap at the same time.

Later,
Joe
 

11Echo

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Correct model designation.

The square body civilian GM units from 1973-1986 were K model 4x4 and C model 2wd. Beginning with the 1987 model year a square body 4x4 was a V series and the 2wd was an R series.
 

Warthog

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Wish my 1987 V20 burb with barn doors was running when I bought it. All cylinders where in the 120psi range.

I like yours. It even has cruise control. [thumbzup]
 
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11Echo

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Wish my 1987 V20 burb with barn doors was running when I bought it. All cylinders where in the 120psi range.

I like yours. It even has cruise control. [thumbzup]
Since you are editing for model designation, there were no C-K trucks built in the 1987 model year. GM made a break that year to ready the new C-K light truck platform introduction for 1988 model year. Your 1987 Burb 4x4 would be a V20.

** edit **

Thanks for the heads up on the V20
Warthog
 
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K9Vic

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Why do I want cargo doors? Well when I want to get into the rear cargo area I just want to open the doors and reach in easily. I do not want to roll down the window, lower the gate and crawl into the cargo area to get stuff. Plus these regulators break and I just spent 2 hours fixing it because I needed it to work as a storage area for parts while I work on it. So cargo doors are much better, but it is a PITA to change over and I have access to dozens of them at the local junk yards,so I an not interested in any.

The title says K20, my last Suburban was a R/V model so this is where I was mislead. Thank you for the correction Warthog.

It is a 700R4, this is one reason why I bought this one over a TH400 that was also out there (1985 K20 4x4 with a bad transmission). Yeah it is a weaker transmission, but I would rather have the overdrive for road trips and I plan to add a good trans cooler over the OEM one. It was an option for the 700R4, the standard transmission for the 3/4 ton was the TH400; or at least the year of my 1990. My 1984 also has 3:89 gears as the axle code is GM5, where the 1990 I had was 3:73 axle code GT4 if I recall.

I tested the cruise control, but it did not seem to work. I will worry about that after I get it running better and new tires. But yes the cruise will be nice for the road trips.

I have a set of Smittybilt XRC seats that I got from 4 Wheel Parts on clearance from a demo they had for dirt cheap. So I am going to see if they will fit in the Suburban better over them being too high in my K5. I think the Suburban seat brackets are lower, so they may work. They are really comfortable seats and they are 100% adjustable to any reclining position. Being black with a tan interior does not bother me and I may Bullet line the floor again eliminating the carpet.

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Recovry4x4

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The tailgates are such a pain to load over and if your truck is lifted, a pain to get in the back. I have a 91 burb and I would kill to have panel doors. Have the back to do the swap, just lack the time and skills.
 

Danger Ranger

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The 'Burban looks great bud, I will be watching this build. They always turn out pretty sweet.



11Echo-- nice 430 in your avatar (I assume its a 430W?)
 

K9Vic

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The 'Burban looks great bud, I will be watching this build. They always turn out pretty sweet.
Thanks, I hope this one will turn out better than my last one. Going for the same look with the dual antenna and winch in the front and will probably make a roof rack as well. Since it already has the factory one I will be able to fabricate something using those mounts on the roof line.

About the additional comments on the tailgate, I figured with how long it has taken me to find a Suburban 4x4 3/4-ton diesel I can deal with it. But if I can change it over without to much work I will do it.
 

11Echo

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The 'Burban looks great bud, I will be watching this build. They always turn out pretty sweet.



[\Quote]11Echo-- nice 430 in your avatar (I assume its a 430W?)
Thanks!
It will fool people because it's a 1959 430T that has had the front end swapped.


** edit **

Thanks for the heads up on the V20
Warthog

**edit**
You are welcome Warthog. Glad top contribute when I can
 

Skinny

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Never knew the 700R4 was an option on the 3/4 ton model. Always thought they got the TH400 until 91' when that was the only year for a 4L80E in the straight axle body style. Keep a build thread...that's a nice rig!
 

K9Vic

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Never knew the 700R4 was an option on the 3/4 ton model. Always thought they got the TH400 until 91' when that was the only year for a 4L80E in the straight axle body style. Keep a build thread...that's a nice rig!
When I got my 1990 I read that the TH400 was standard in the 3/4 ton, but you could order it with the 4-speed 700R4. My 1984 was ordered with the 4-speed and towing package from the build sheet on the fender. It has a large trans cooler and not the 4 core radiator like our CUCV have.
 

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K9Vic

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Weekend #1 (May 4/5) over and spent it all working on the Suburban. I checked into the fuel system and the IP did not have any fragments in the upper "bowl" that would lead to a bad IP, it was very clean. So I do not think the IP is bad and my slow response may have been old fuel as it sat for a near 2 years. I will have to drive it to see how it goes.

I did find that the fuel pump is leaking, not surprised as it would seem to be original and caked with grease. I will go the electric fuel pump and already have the parts on order. So that will be next weekends project.

I started to clean out the interior some, removed the door panels so I can check the window regulators. I lubricated them all and found that only the right rear does not work all the way, but that is not important window. I did not put the lower carpet sections back on, just more places to hold dirt. I did spend about 2 hours getting the rear window to work right, it was very dusty and dry back there. I thought the motor was out as it did not roll up, but after the cleanup it worked.

When I removed the driver door panel I was also going to see about fixing the dent. Well too my surprise the door was dented and fixed before as there are dent puller holes that were patched. After a closer look at the paint on outside I can see over spray on the emblems, but only on the driver side. I fixed the dent, but there are now small hole fill marks that I need to fix, but not a big deal.

The glow plug controller is the older pre-85 crappy system that fails all the time and only worked for me once. It is small tube like plug that goes where the CUCV temp sensor is with an external relay. It is like the CUCV system in a way, but the controller is on the temp sensor and that is the weakness of this older system. So I will bypass it with a manual switch like we do with the CUCV system. I tested and it works great after installing new 60G glow plugs.

I also removed all the side molding and found that there are mark holes there, so they will have to be patched. I have to be careful when removing the emblems as they are worth keeping or selling. I plan to keep the 6.2L diesel emblems on it and paint them over green. I think they will look cool like that.

Next weekends plans..
Fuel pump electric.
GP bypass with manual switch.
Clean interior.
Loose chrome mirrors & rain gutters.
Install front CUCV bumper, shackles & grille.

Pictures.
 

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K9Vic

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Side note, can anyone explain this fuse panel to me? My 1990 was nothing like this, but that did not have power windows, locks or 700R4 trans.
 

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Warthog

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Barrman installed the later style GP controller on his 1984 USAF Burb. There are instructions on how to do this. I'll see if I can find them.

I have the factory wiring diagrams for a 1984 Burb. I'll see if the fusebox is included.
 

K9Vic

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Barrman installed the later style GP controller on his 1984 USAF Burb. There are instructions on how to do this. I'll see if I can find them.

I have the factory wiring diagrams for a 1984 Burb. I'll see if the fusebox is included.
Thanks, I read about people doing that on other diesel forums but no one said how to actually do it. The wiring diagram will help to figure that mess out, but when I remove the dash and cluster to clean I can better trase everything.
 
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