• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

My 4l80E install in my 1009, current progress

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
I do not beleive there is a stock controler for the 4l80e and 6.2 becasue I do not think they were ever available in production vehicle, I do not beleive the 6.2 was ever used with a 4l80e since the 6.2 was replaced in I think 92 with the 6.5 and the first of the 4l80e was in 92 also. I could be wrong on this. I know you can use the 6.5 controler but I believe you have to swap the engine wiring harness and I thought that would be more trouble than it was worth plus I would have to find one from a junk yard and hope it was not cut up. The 6.5 computer controls the engine and transmission in one computer and thus not really sure how it would work on the 6.2 without turbo. Using the stand alone controler seemed to be the right option for me since I did not want to search junk yards. I tried this for the axles and found nothing left in any of the local yards. I also did not want to experiment with the stock wiring harness. The time and money chasing this stuff down did not see worth it to me. You also get some added functionality with the TCI hand held. You can input tire and gear ratio to get an accurate speed reading and you get trans temp and other info eliminating the need for additional gauges which can get expensive.

The stock transfer case will work fine, the 4l80e has the same output shaft as th400 my problem is with the 5 inch lift and moving the transfer case back almost 2 inches. I did the lift so I could do the cross over steer and since 4 inches is minimum for steer, I used a 4 inch lift with the ORD shackle flip and in order to recenter the rear axle I also needed the zero rate which gives me the 5 inch total lift. since I put the zero rate in the rear I needed one in the front also and thus I moved the front axle forward so that I would only have to trim the front of the fender opening behind the bumper and not the back. I dont think I am going to need to trim the rear fenders any, but i hope to check this for sure this weekend.
I was planning on changing the transfer case to a 205/203 doubler from the beginning but was hoping to put it off for a little while due to the cost of the doubler. I decided to go with the ORD magnum box because it will actually be shorter than the origional 208 t-case allowing me to re-gain some of the length that I lost when I installed the longer 4l80e trans. In addition to being shorter it is also infinately clockable so I can make the 205 hang down a lot less than the 208. The icing on the cake for the magnum box is the fat shaft which allows you to use the two boxes in any combination without breaking the shaft. when using the 203/205 combo you have to use the 203 low first then double it by adding the 205. Using the 205 in low and the 203 in high can break the shaft between them.
If you only had 3 inches or less on the lift then the 208 t-case could be used with the slip yoke. The 208 can be used with the 5 inch lift but I would have to change the rear of the 208 to a fixed yoke. I do not want to spend any money on the 208 so I have elected to let the truck sit until I can get the doubler t-case installed. checking with ORD, it will be mid feb. before they will be shipping me my magnum box. I have a lot of other stuff to work on until it gets here and another vehicle to drive so it is not a big deal. I am itching to get it on the road and test it out.
When I get it on the road I will definately post the performance of everything at that time.
 

martindc1

New member
22
0
0
Location
La Crosse, WI
Napa and Rock Auto list an automatic transmission controller for a 4 speed automatic in a 91 K3500 with a 6.2. But I don't know about anything else of it beyond looking at it on their websites. The price is around $125 but by the time you add wiring harnesses and whatever else you may be looking at a price of around what you paid without the added functionality that you mentioned.
 

chevyCUCV

New member
598
5
0
Location
Massachusetts
91-93 6.2 or 6.5 will have factory 4180e behind it
Will have a trans controller

Cheapest option for 4l80e. Seen complete trucks for 1000. Keep drivetrain, turbo your truck and od for cheap.
 

PETE BALLARD

Member
205
0
16
Location
Plainfield,Il
just checking back in - it looks as you have been very busy doing other stuff. wanted to ask - when looking for a 4l80e is there a difference between cases 2 wheel vrs 4 wheel drive or is it just the addition of an adapter housing? after reading your thread it has helped me decide going the 4l80e way might be best alternative. thanks for the info - pete
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
the only difference is the rear output shaft and housing adapter between two wheel and 4 wheel. The housing addapter bolts on to the exterior and can be changed without rebuilding the trans. to change the output shaft, you have to rebuild the trans. I had a two wheel drive unit and bought the rear housing and output shaft from a trasmision parts place in houston tx. The parts were only $65. I can give you their info if needed.

The only difference in the cases is early model and late model (i think 96 was the first of the late model). I have heard mixed reviews on each. the differnce is where the trans cooler lines connect. early models the two connections were in the front of the trans behind the bell housing. The later models split the two connections, one in the front of the trans and one in the rear of the trans. This was done to make it cool the rear trans part better. Per my trans guy the later model is better. I have read on the internet some people still like the early model.

The changes to the transfer case are only needed depending on if you lift the truck. I went 5 inches and the slip yoke does not work. With no lift you would only have to shorten the drive shaft and the slip yoke would be ok. If you have access to a machine shop, you can modify the existing adapter between the th400 and 208 t-case and use it instead of the 4 wheel drive adapter on the trans. I have not done this but read on the ss forum where others have. You also have a lot of options on the trans controler. I have had major issues with getting a good unit from tci but it appears that I now have a good unit and like the functionality of it vs. the other choices.
 

PETE BALLARD

Member
205
0
16
Location
Plainfield,Il
question for chevycucv - can the ECU and wireing harness from a '95 be made to work or go with the stand alone controller. this just came up that i have access to a 95 with a 6.5 (blown up) with a fresh trans
 

PETE BALLARD

Member
205
0
16
Location
Plainfield,Il
thanks for your help rich, you have complied some great information for the rest of us to draw upon. BTW the other mods that you are working on LQQK great and you have a great sense of attention to detail - nice work!!!
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
I got my tranny back from being rebuilt for the second time. The POS tranny controller from TCI over pressured the tranny and messed up the electrical plug connection and made it leak really bad, it also blew some internal O-rings and seals. They had to take it apart and put it back together ($450). All that was needed was a new rebuild kit. I was also able to verify that the previous trans builder did put new parts in and did not screw me on that part of the job.

One thing that I found out was that the 4 wheel drive 4l80e tranny's do not have the rear speed ring. The four wheel drives use the speed sensor in the transfer case. I converted a 2 wheel to a 4 wheel and my tranny builder kept the speed sensor ring so I had no problems. If you get a 4 wheel drive 4l80e, and plan to use an aftermarket controller (stay away from TCI) you must have this speed ring added.

I am going to try and get it installed this weekend. I received my US shift trans controller so hopefully everything will work once it is back in the truck.

My TCI trans controller cost me $750 plus $450 on the rebuild. Thus I threw away $1200 using TCI. Stay as far away from this company as possible. I would take them to court but I do not have the time.

US shift quick one controller was less than $600 shipped to my door, hopefully I will have better luck with this controller.
Will update as progress is made.

Rich
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
4l80e running good

Got the trans installed and a little driving in for the first time in about two years. Had to take a lot of long breaks from the project due to work.
I do not have a trans lift but have become very good at installing just using a floor jack. The trans, magnum box, 205 t-case are all connected and mounted to the cross member then installed into the truck. There is a pile of junk on the left cross member to counter balance the t-case and allow it to center balance on the jack. it is actually very stable once you get it centered and weighted right.

I installed the Bauman electronics opti shift unit. It was much easier than the TCI wiring harness. The unit worked right the first time out of the box. I need to adjust the shift points but I had no problems putting about 30 miles on it. Everything was great with the trans. but found a leak at the t-case so it may have to come back out.

I ran the truck mostly around 45 mph or less just letting it go through the gears, at the end I did get it up to 65 mph and was running about 1850 rpms with torque converter locked up. I still need to calibrate the rpm signal so the rpm could be off a little but not much. speed was based on controller output, which is based on tail shaft speed of trans, tire size and differential input into the controller, I think it was accurate based on the other traffic flow.

This was the first test on the new tires and they did great. I used 12 oz of dyna beads in each tire. They are GM aluminum bead locks (Hutchinson) with inserts. Michelin xzl 11X39 r16, running 40 psi. very smooth ride, I was surprised how quiet they were. No road hum for very aggressive tread. It is a shame they don't make these tires any more.

I have steering problems but that is next on the list. I have a PSC hydro assist kit sitting on the bench up next for install. Besides the t-case leak everything ran much better than expected.

I have to work the rest of the week so it will have to wait for the weekend.

Rich
 

Attachments

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
Got the Transmission installed. Had to pull it one more time to fix leak between the magnum and 205. I did not get one of the bolt holes sealed good.
Ran the truck a few miles tonight to get all the fluids warm. At this time I have no leaks that I can find. I put some fresh cardboard under it for the night so we will see if any thing leaks. I think it is going to be to cold tonight to be much of an indicator.
I do have a small leak I need to find on the new Hydro assist steering that was installed last week. Just a small drip so I probably have a fitting not tight enough.

Will get some pics posted soon. I had to make a mount for the remote reservoir and the line from the reservoir to the pump had to go through the drivers side Alt belt. I am going to plumb a drain on the reservoir so that I can drain it when I need to change the Alt belt.

truck runs good. need to set the computer so it shifts in all gears a little higher speed.
I am waiting on my parking brake cable so that I can get it inspected. It also needs an alignment which will be done when I get the inspection.
I hope I can get it done before the weekend.
I will post pics and some data on how it runs. I think a turbo is needed next.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
Got the truck on the road.
The parking brake cable works well, The transfer case brake it self rattles a little but does hold ok for a parking brake.
Got the transmission adjusted and it shifts well.
At 65 MPH, the speedo reads 54 and the rpms are right on 1800.
It has a little wobble to it at highway speeds, nothing uncomfortable but I may try to put the sway bar back on the front with a drop/disconnect kit.
At 60 everything is smooth, 65 there is some vibration in the tires, at 75 the vibration is worse. Going to add centramatics soon so it should fix this.
65 is my normal highway speed. I do not plan running much faster than this very often.

The OPTI shift controller is much easier to install and program than the TCI. TCI cost me an additional $1000 on my tranny. It over pressured the trans causing leaks at the electrical plug and it blew some internal seals. Stay away from TCI, they would not warranty it and I ended up throwing it in the trash. After spending $400 to have the trans rebuilt a second time and buying a OPTI shift controller everything is good now.
I did a little off road driving, nothing real serious but I did find some places to flex the suspension and I was happy that I had no rubbing in the fenders.

The 4l80E upgrade should have only cost about $1800. That's for core tranny, rebuild, controller and new torque converter. I did all of the install labor.
I think it is a better investment than a gear vendor. The 4l80e is a one ton tranny and not a transfer case add on. From the prices I have seen on a gear vendor the 4l80e is cheaper. I have a Ord Magnum box and NP 205 t-case, in a 1009. I did not have the length to add the gear vendor.

I need to get some new pics up, the 1009 looks really good on 39's.

I installed the PSC hydro assist kit, I have a small leak in the system that I have to fix but other than this leak, all other leaks have been fixed.

Rich
 

evldoer

Member
141
1
16
Location
Leroy WI
Well I'm glad to hear you can finally enjoy the fruits of your labor. That was a long project drawn out by faulty products and faulty customer service.
This should now be a truck you can get into and run anywhere. I'm curious to hear what kind of milage you can pull out of it.
Thanks for sharing the story. I learned a lot.
 

True Knight

Active member
673
179
43
Location
San Pedro, CA
Question about your TCI controller: what programming did you do when installed? I just answered the set-up questions that the program asked for (such as tire size, HP estimate, engine red line...) and used the suggested program values. I only slightly adjusted 1 or 2 of the shift points and kept the shift harshness values at the stock values. It's been over 4 years and over 26,000 miles put on my set up with no problems.

It appears that you got a newer controller from TCI. I wonder if this was one of those cases of newer isn't always better...
 
Last edited:

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
My controller only asked tire size and gear ratio. The first controller they sent me had an EFI program and not a trans program. The second one had a trans controller program but did not work. The took the second one back and reprogramed it and sent it back and it was still bad. One of the three screwed up a freshly rebuilt tranny. Got the tranny rebuilt again and the second rebuilder confirmed the first rebuilder did nothing wrong. The tranny was over pressured by the controller. I bought the US shift OPTI shift, it was easier to install and it programs with a lap top which makes that really easy also.
I put about 200 miles on it in three days and one of the oil cooler lines failed so I am now looking for new lines.
very happy with the truck so far.
If done without mistakes, this tranny and controller can be done for about $2k. When I get the oil lines fixed, I will get some action videos posted.

Thanks,
Rich
 

True Knight

Active member
673
179
43
Location
San Pedro, CA
Sorry to hear you had so many issues with it! I must have got the last good model controller that they made. But yeah, once you get the problems fixed you'll be very pleased with the results!
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
22
20
Location
CT
Reading this made me glad I did an NV4500 however as was posted using a 93 obd1 setup would have probably been easier and cheaper.
Google Bobby Martin db2 conversion
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
I replaced the oil cooler lines, AC Delco from rock Auto. Almost a perfect fit. I had to make a new clamp on the end at the motor. The bends in the new lines made the old one short.

Been driving the truck a lot. I have been adjusting the shift points and I am close to getting it dialed in. Shifting a lot softer now.

Here is the basic data:
45 mph = 1500 rpm in 4th.
55 mph = 1650 rpm
65 mph = 1800 rpm
75 mph = 2000 rpm

I need to rebuild the steering column but the hydro steer is great. Takes a little getting used to because the wheel does not return when exiting a turn. You have to turn it back.
The truck runs great at 60, has some vibration at 65 and enough vibration not to push it at 75. The wheels need better balancing.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks