My CUCV spin on fuel filter mod

[yamabro]

I'm going to tackle this conversion

Thanks for all the helpful info

 

[gsparks]

Hey all, I was glad to find this thread. I am having similar fuel leaking problems on my 84 1028. My trucks filter base has a water sensor on the back and a purge unit on top of it. Both have wiring to them. If I go with a spin on type filter what do I do with these wires. Simply disconnect them from their connectors or something else? Again, the advice above has been very helpful. Thank you to all you guys. I will appreciate any advice.

 

[gsparks]

same leaking problem

hello everyone, I was happy to find this thread. Thanks for all the advice. I am having similar fuel leaking problems on my 84 1028. I have decided to go with the spin on filter. My existing filter base has a water sensor on the back and a purge unit on top. Both have wiring attached to them. What do I do with this wiring? Simply disconnect them or something else? Again thanks for all the useful info, any advice would be appreciated.

 

[cpf240]

Either disconnect them and do nothing, or use one of the spin-on filter bases that has options for things like the heater and water-in-fuel sensor. I don't think I've seen any spin-on setups that have the fuel pressure sensor, but you don't need it anyway as its not used for anything but the STE/ICE diagnostic tools.

 

[Recovry4x4]

For what it's worth, the Stanadyne FM100 filter base is a pretty good candidate for the spin on conversion. What makes it even better is that there was a major dump of WIX elements for that base a while back. Gimpyrobb has over a thousand of them. I'm switching all of my trucks over to that base solely as an economic issue. I can buy a lifetime supply of filters for the cost of maybe 12 box filters and the bases are in the $50 range. You can add heaters and water sensors and all kinds of stuff to these bases. There have been more than a few folks who have done the switch right here on Steel Soldiers.

 

[hatzie]

The top loading FM100 from the CIVVY 6.5L engines is a nice filter unit. I have one on all three of my diesel trucks. They don't leak and the filters are inexpensive and very available.

 

[redwhiteandblue]

The top loading FM100 from the CIVVY 6.5L engines is a nice filter unit. I have one on all three of my diesel trucks. They don't leak and the filters are inexpensive and very available.

Is that a spin on type? Do you have a part # or make/model of vehicle it comes out of and year range? Thanks.

 

[hatzie]

Is that a spin on type? Do you have a part # or make/model of vehicle it comes out of and year range? Thanks.

The GM FM100 is a top loading filter arrangement bolted into the rear of the intake valley. They are used on the 1992-2001 GM T400 CK pickup trucks and the 02-04 Hummer H1 with the 6.5L engines.
This link is an expensive new one without the mounting brackets, drain hose, etc that you'd get from a blown motor in a yard. http://www.thedieselstore.com/template/productOutput.php?partNum=STA29367#.UWl3lMpqKyA

 

[axshon]

Thanks everyone for a great thread. I'm getting ready to do this mod on my 84 M1009. Couple quick questions though:
1) I'm going with the WIX 24770 base but I'm not sure about which filter to use. I plan to run 60/40 Diesel/WMO starting soon. Can I still use the 3 micron 33005 (NAPA 3005) or will I have to step down to the 12 micron 33405 (DAPA 3405). Is there a reason no one has mentioned the 6 micron 33426 (NAPA 3426) that is similar diameter?
2) I've seen pictures of the bleeder valve on one of the output sides but I haven't seen any pictures of the setup for the marine squeeze bulb primer on the input side of this base. Anyone care to enlighten me?

 

[85CUCVtom]

I don't have any experience with the squeeze bulb but, I did use a brass ball valve on one of the holes on the WIX base. I put a couple feet of rubber fuel hose and drained towards the ground along the frame rail. I just crack the valve, crank the motor and she bleeds out. Just gotta remember to close it.

 

[rsh4364]

Gonna do this upgrade soon,thanks for all the input.At idle my 1009 sounds like it has a full race cam,jumps,shakes and spits out black smoke,

 

[chesapeake]

I figured I would tag on to this thread instead of starting a new one. I am going to make the conversion tonight if I get home in time. New spin on base, filter and fuel lines from the base. I have a question about repriming the system.

When everything is together, the new filter is full of fuel and on the base, How do I bleed the remaining air out of the system? From what I have researched on here,

Disconnect the pink wire from the IP
Open the fuel cap
Don't turn over for more than 20 sec, let it rest and try again,
If I am missing something please let me know. Also, how do I know when stop priming

Thank you

Ted

 

[Sam27]

Should have some sort of a valve at the filter you can open for this purpose. I have a little petcock thing on mine. Personally, I just opened that valve and cranked it until fuel was coming out, then shut it. If it starts, that's okay, but I don't think it will. Don't crank it forever and burn something up. Maybe someone else will chime in with why this is abusive, but it has worked for me. I had to do it a lot before I fixed my fuel filter.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

When everything is together, the new filter is full of fuel and on the base, How do I bleed the remaining air out of the system?

Two words: Electric pump.

 

[Pawnshop]

I clamped off the fuel lines before I disconnected them and filled the filter with fuel before I installed it, I got lucky and my truck just fired right up and ran. Your mileage may vary!

 

[chesapeake]

Thanks all. I'm replacing both rubber lines or I would clamp them off. Fuel mileage or results of clamping lines

 

[TechnoWeenie]

I used the Attwood Marine fuel filter/water separator from Wallyworld. It's a 10 micron fuel filter/water separator. http://www.walmart.com/ip/FUEL-WATER-SEPARATOR-KIT/11071204

I added a ball valve with a nipple on it, and attached a small hose. I can stick the hose into a bottle, leave it open, and start the truck, then get out, shut the valve off, and dump the fuel from the bottle back into the tank.

I bolted together 2 L brackets, to extend it from the firewall to put it at the perfect position. I wanted the filter close to the heads, to get whatever heat it could, since there is no longer a heater. I will be putting in a heater through the spare input port (now capped) eventually.

 

[chesapeake]

I got mine done a few days ago. I used the Wix 4770 base and a Wix 533005 filter. I got the 3/8"x1/2"npt barbed fitting from Ace. I got the 1/4"x1/2" npt barbed fitting from EBay. I wrapped the threads with regular old thread tape. Because my filter is so long, I had to cut a piece of steel to make a new mounting plate and attach it to the existing plate.

New fuel line from the filter to the IP. On the IP side, if you will run the fuel line on until it can go no further it makes the clamp much easier to tighten. To do this I just reached between the engine and the intake from behind. I also ran a new 3/8" fuel line.

I did this because the truck started dying about 3-4 secs after I fired it off. Then it would take forever to get fuel back to the engine. I had an air leak. This conversion fixed my problem.

Make sure to fill the filter up to the threads with fuel before you install. Also I added fuel to the lines before I put them on the base. The truck turned over for about two seconds and hasn't died yet

 

[RiverMtnMan]

X2 as chesapeake. Same issue, would die few seconds after it fired. Did this same setup earlier this year and all is well!

 

[85CUCVtom]

You have to have a way to bleed the air from the system. Add a valve of some sort.