My first CUCV M1028A1

[clinto]

Congrats!

Are you going to show it off with us in October?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?106072-Official-2013-SS-Ga-Rally-Info-thread

 

[chesapeake]

Congrats!

Are you going to show it off with us in October?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?106072-Official-2013-SS-Ga-Rally-Info-thread

Thank you. Yeah I will do my best to come. That sounds like a lot of fun. It would only be about 1.5 hrs from the house. I have family/hunting lease in Washington, Ga so Heavy's use to be a staple in my diet when we would go over and come back as a kids. I can't remember the last time I ate there.

 

[chesapeake]

It depends on which starter it has, the old bigger direct drive or the newer smaller gear reduction. Different brackets. The old style is discontinued and used is your option unless you make your own. The new style is still available at the dealer.

the part numbers should be in the wiki or FAQ

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?15551-Starter-bracket-bolt-size

Well I have a big old direct drive starter (It is old looking) Do you happen to have a lead on a bracket? If morning will post a WTB ad. Thank you for your help and advise.

 

[detroitmuscle1986]

How about some guages? Temp, oil pressure and such. Just a thought. I have an M1028A1 that also came from the mississippi National Guard. Our most recent project will be overhauling the breaks. Our rear shoes are nonexistent.

 

[chesapeake]

I have thought about gauges. I am concentrating on fixing and preventative maintenance.

I cut the diode out of the horn relay yesterday (couldn't tape up exposed wire so I hit it with liquid tape), finished the LMC light harness. Bought hubs, bearings, wipers, toggle switch for gp controller today. I will look at the brakes when I do the hubs. Replaced the headlight adjustment screws as well ( major work huh!!!!! Lol )

 

[Durango_USMC]

Take a moment to look around the steering components and the axle components for loose parts, cracks around the steering box, and anything thats amiss. My M1008 drove great for two months until I hit a pot hole and felt like the truck was going to tear itself apart with that death wobble. Dont forget to grease everything up.

Great looking truck though! I'm definitely a little jealous.

 

[clinto]

That sounds like a lot of fun.

You have no idea. Go check out the pic/video thread from the 2012 event: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?96264-Official-2012-Ga-Rally-multimedia-thread

 

[RetiredNavy]

If your headlight lens has oxidation on them, use toothpaste and a rag and wipe them like you are applying wax to your car. I saw my son do this to a recent car purchase and came out pretty good. Not sure about other lens though.

 

[chesapeake]

It does look like ya'll had a good time last year. I will do my best to get out there. I have a Customs test sometime in October, so as long as it does interfer with that we are good to go.

I have never heard of toothpast before. I will definietly try when I get home. I am taking my bearing back to Oreilly's. They look very cheap and were made in China. While my father was buying bearing for his Model G John Deere, I had him pick me up a a set of Timken bering. A he!! of lot more expensive, but at least if they fail it is my fault for doing something stupid.

I also ordered new door window and wing windoe weather stripping, sidemarkers and tail light gasket today. I am really hoping the weather stripping isn't going to be a pain. The youtube videos make everything look easier lol

 

[chesapeake]

I got the ORD bolt in steering brace put on today and I am half way through putting the manual GP switch in. I also ordered the OTC 7158 socket ( from searching the forum)so I can do my front bearings. I got it from eBay for $10.00

 

[chesapeake]

Got the starter bracket on tonight. Will update more tomorrow

 

[chesapeake]

My bracket came in from Boyds. The bracket to block bolt wouldn't go into the block. I took the following steps below to clean the threads. It was a slow process, but it worked.


I took a .30 cal bronze bore brush and twisted it in the threads. A haze of rust dust came out. I squirted PB blaster in there and worked it with the brush. I cleaned it with brake fluid. I then sprayed an orange kitchen degreaser in the threads and let it sit for a 10 mins. Then worked it with the bore brush again (I cut the tip of the brush off since the brisles were mashed down). Cleaned it with brake cleaner and repeated the degreaser (this time some of the brissles fell of and lodged in there). I tried the bolt and only got a couple of turns. I took a M8 x 1.25 tap and through a combination of the tap handle, my hands a and a pair of pliers, I got the hole cleaned. I would turn it till it became hard and then clean the hole and tap with brake cleaner. I would spray the tap with WD40 and go again. After three hrs, the bolt fit. I had to drop the starter a little to get the bracket on. I used all Grade 8/meteric equivalent harware. I put a lock washer on the bracket to block bolt and a washer and lock washer on the bracket to starter stud. I took it for a 20 min ride, but didn't have the time to check the install. I will check tonight and go pick up new starter bolts since these have been on without the bracket

 

[chesapeake]

I got my package from LMC today. I have added the gasket to the tail lights, new side markers and bulbs and finally finished the GP controller manual switch. On the switch, I just spliced it into the light blue wire. As you can see by the picture, I have power to the switch. When I turn the key on, I hear the the clunk of the GP. When I turn the switch on, I don't here the clunk. I am a little worried I might have messed something up. My new window and wing window seals came in today. That was the LMC package. Are they a pain to replace

 

[chesapeake]

Sorry the pictures are sideways. I took them withy phone and added them to the forum with my phone. No idea how to right them

 

[patracy]

It does look like ya'll had a good time last year. I will do my best to get out there. I have a Customs test sometime in October, so as long as it does interfer with that we are good to go.

I will be heading that way as well. If you want to convoy. I get onto I-20 at Temple.

 

[cpf240]

... and finally finished the GP controller manual switch. On the switch, I just spliced it into the light blue wire. As you can see by the picture, I have power to the switch. When I turn the key on, I hear the the clunk of the GP. When I turn the switch on, I don't here the clunk. I am a little worried I might have messed something up.

That sure doesn't sound right. Please diagram how you have the switch wired. If I remember correctly, splicing into the light blue wire should be fine, with the other end connecting to ground via the switch.

 

[chesapeake]

That sure doesn't sound right. Please diagram how you have the switch wired. If I remember correctly, splicing into the light blue wire should be fine, with the other end connecting to ground via the switch.

I have the ground going to a screw with another ground and 6 male prongs attached. It is locate under the dash driver side as close to the fender and under the dash as you can get. The splice was done using a wire splice. It has a place for both wires. You close the lid and it pushes a metal piece into both wires.

If I turn the ignition on and immediately try the switch nothing happens ( switch doesnt light up) If I wait for the GP light to go out and I heard the GPs turn off and try the switch, the switch light comes on, but no sound.

One more issue. My reverse lights done come on. When you put it in and take it out of reverse, they blink but that is it. Any ideas?

 

[chesapeake]

I will be heading that way as well. If you want to convoy. I get onto I-20 at Temple.

If I able to go. That sounds like a great idea. Thanks

 

[chesapeake]

Any ideas on the gp controller bypass issue above? Should I resplice it or take it out and put a three way in? I am open for suggestions. Also anything on the reverse lights?

I added new Silvestar H6054 headlights last night and wow! What a difference. They are not like the 55 watt HIDs on my jeep, but they are white light and and a lot better than stock. I clean sprayed the engine and undercarriage down with purple power last night and steam cleaned it. I going to doing again with a orange degreaser or my neighbors industrial degreaser.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Have you got a meter? Check continuity on your splice. Sometimes those don't "take" properly. They are great when they are good, but when they are not good, they are real bad.

Also, clean up that ground. It's probably a bit rusted.

Reverse lights? Might be a bad reverse switch.