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My first M35A2 filter change

WTF D00D

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I'll be looking up the TM later today to do this but I have learned that many may have suggestions on things to do/not do or look out for that the TM's might not mention.

Any recommendations or suggestions before I do this later today would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

swbradley1

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Go to Google and type:

site:steelsoldiers.com deuce filter change

Go through a few of the links provided.
 

Tlauden

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What filters?? All of them?? The air filter is straight forward, simple and not messy lol.

The fuel filters:
Get a bucket for your drippings when you drain your primary, the secondary and final filters I always take the deuce into a grassy area to change. This makes it easier because you don't need to worry about making a mess on your floor. As to the oil I assume your changing your oil too?? I've always gotten messy doing oil filters so make sure you have plenty of rags.



Watch for all the little pieces inside the filters that pertain to "holding" the filters in. IE: washers and that kinda stuff.

Take your time and don't rush. There is nothing "hard" about it, just a little time consuming and a wee bit messy lol.

Remember to get all the air outta your fuel lines once you change the filters. It helps to have a buddy inside working the switch. Open the bleeder at the primary and wait for it to spit fuel, do the same thing at the top bleeder of the secondary/final. I believe the secondary/final has 1 bleeder on top between the two.

Good luck!!
 

DieselBob

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If you are doing the oil filters and still have the stock setup you can pull the plug circled in the image and that will make sure the filters are empty before you loosen the cans. Saves a lot of mess.
 

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gimpyrobb

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If you haven't done the fuel filters yet, plan on taking the housings and washing the crap out of them, literally. You will usually find about an inch of rust and crust on the bottom. After digging that stuff out and scrubbing, I'll hit it with some brake cleaner to dry out the water and re-assemble everything. Make sure you test the drains while you have it apart. running a wire through them usually cleans them out.
 

Warthog

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When changing the oil filters, let the truck sit overnight with out starting the engine. This allow the oil to drain out of the filters.

If not then be prepared for a mess.
 

gimpyrobb

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When changing the oil filters, let the truck sit overnight with out starting the engine. This allow the oil to drain out of the filters.

If not then be prepared for a mess.
I always did this till I helped Rich bring that deuce home from Tx. The truck I drove sat overnight and when I went to change the filters, the housings were NOT empty. I posted up about it and it seems some trucks don't drain back for some reason. You might want to pull that plug just in case!
 

silverstate55

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Be prepared for leaking oil filter canisters around the base where the gaskets are supposed to seat...if they experience colder temps, the new gaskets might contract if they're not seated properly and you'll have a good oil leak from there. I lost about 1.5 gallons of oil recently when temperatures dropped and I started the engine early one morning. I've been told by other members that if you have a good-condition canister gasket, leave it in place & seat it good & snug to the canister so it doesn't leak during temperature swings.
 

frank8003

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This is where you find out IF that the intank pump is dead.
I suggest that before taking apart any of the three fuel filters you first goto the fuel tank and see the block with the large outlet copper tubing to the truck. On the outboard side is a hex key driven pipe plug. Remove it and place the accesory switch on/off for two seconds. Go and look. If you don't have fuel that squirted out then do not open any part of the fuel system. If it squirts then change the filters.
If she don't squirt then something is wrong with the intank lift pump and when you get done changing the filters she won't run anymore.
 

frank8003

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View attachment 394872
and a picture for the General.
If you had a gauge and screwed it in there then one should see 3 to 7psig from the lift pump.
If you get zero and/or it don't squirt then don't mess with the fuel system.

This is where you find out IF that the intank pump is dead.
I suggest that before taking apart any of the three fuel filters you first goto the fuel tank and see the block with the large outlet copper tubing to the truck. On the outboard side is a hex key driven pipe plug. Remove it and place the accesory switch on/off for two seconds. Go and look. If you don't have fuel that squirted out then do not open any part of the fuel system. If it squirts then change the filters.
If she don't squirt then something is wrong with the intank lift pump and when you get done changing the filters she won't run anymore.
 
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