My first M998: Fixing her up

[1000eemonarch]

Here's what's inside the tank. Old school float level sender, and the pesky "sock"




Nothing exciting except for that "sock" thing. It appears to be made of brass mesh, is dirty, and looks very fragile. I'm tempted to give it a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner, see what that does. Will do some more investigating on this see where it goes... Replacing it would be nice, but if availability is a problem, I'm halfway tempted to use a hydraulic suction strainer if I can find a small/fine enough one that's made out of nice material. I've heard bad things about diesel and galvanized steel. Something like this:

 

[Milcommoguy]

The sock / strainer is available but can be pricey. I have seen $22 to $38 bucks. It is more than a filter. The round end has a sort of check valve / release should the filter clog, the little flapper will open due to a clog or if fuel gels in the fine filter medium. (Cold waxie fuel and assuming fuel pump can draw.

Simple enough, but can be a stinker to get off. With a new one in hand just go ahead and waste the old one, twisting, pulling add in a couple of naughty words. Once you get it off you will see the "one way" tiny barbs ( on filter connection) holding in on. New one easy, just be careful of fit up and have it pointing in the right direction. Maybe plastic so no banging on the workbench. OEM is the way to go. Once change good for another 30 years.

Guess some fuel is better that staying home, CAMO

 

[Milcommoguy]

Here's a quick picture of bracket that needs reworked. Well, sort of. the two ears or bosses that need to be cutoff of the old emergency brake caliper hanger. Look at all the pitted deep rust. You bid on the cleanest one on the lot. Fuel tank tells it ALL ! 1986 New to you, NOT!

If you still have the old brake disk / rotor, ditch it ... BUT keep has the spacer to driveline to differential. You will need it I cut it a 1/4 inch from each outside of the 4 holes, put it back in and done. Not worth the hassle to switch up U-joints or input yokes.

Use FUEL specific sealers - gasket makers.

Tanks can be cheap. Shipping is a deal breaker, CAMO


Got to eat a lot of noodle bowls to pay for this rig.
.

 

[1000eemonarch]

>> Here's a quick picture of bracket that needs reworked.

I may grind the ears off or get a new one, still on the fence there. It's cheap enough, but then again a cutoff wheel is way cheaper.

>> You bid on the cleanest one on the lot. Fuel tank tells it ALL ! 1986 New to you, NOT!

Do we have sister trucks??



>> If you still have the old brake disk / rotor, ditch it ...

Lucky there, all that stuff is gone.

>> Tanks can be cheap. Shipping is a deal breaker, CAMO

Yeah, the shipping, plus all the other "goodies" for the tank swap/refresh will cost way more than the tank itself... Oh well, part of the game, averages out...

Thanks,
Alex.

 

[TOBASH]

Here's what's inside the tank. Old school float level sender, and the pesky "sock"

View attachment 793366
View attachment 793367

Nothing exciting except for that "sock" thing. It appears to be made of brass mesh, is dirty, and looks very fragile. I'm tempted to give it a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner, see what that does. Will do some more investigating on this see where it goes... Replacing it would be nice, but if availability is a problem, I'm halfway tempted to use a hydraulic suction strainer if I can find a small/fine enough one that's made out of nice material. I've heard bad things about diesel and galvanized steel. Something like this:

There are lots of socks on the market, from what I just researched. If you wanted to go crazy you could weld or braze a "T" fitting onto your unit and then place 2 of those more commonly obtained socks/devices. If you're using Diesel fuel in the USA, I doubt that modification would clog up for 1-2 decades, unless you let your vehicle sit and grow tank algae.

 

[osteo16]

There are lots of socks on the market, from what I just researched. If you wanted to go crazy you could weld or braze a "T" fitting onto your unit and then place 2 of those more commonly obtained socks/devices. If you're using Diesel fuel in the USA, I doubt that modification would clog up for 1-2 decades, unless you let your vehicle sit and grow tank algae.

please send me a Sock link that doesnt cost $50 each.... Because thats all i see out there.. Happy for any info

 

[TOBASH]

please send me a Sock link that doesnt cost $50 each.... Because thats all i see out there.. Happy for any info

No one purchases a HMMWV to be financially responsible.

Try FleaPay. Several non HMMWV specific there.

 

[Milcommoguy]

The in-tank fuel filter, sometimes called a sock or strainer or that dirty thing ie in the tank part number R12338556 is a one time purchase that after thirty years ( figure one dollar a year) shouldn't be a deal breaker. Looking around the web I see them for 24 to 56 bucks. IMO, not a bad deal for one restoring the HumV fuel system to get another 30 years.

Note to just any old sock will work?? Best that they match, just like MOM said.

It sets low in the baffle / slosh box to get that last drop and has features I posted earlier.

As a funny... how did you guys / gals explain away the truck cost in the first place? "sold the boat" "found the money tree" " Trump kick me down some cash"

Buy OEM... Now go and pick up your socks, CAMO

PN> R12338556

No Humv want to wear a 30 year old Yucky sock. TIDBIT : If it doesn't look like this but new, you might have the wrong one. Many GM diesel 80's pick up trucks used the same one. Many look almost like it but WRONG tubing size,

 

[Augi]

A note on the new style sender:

The float is in the tube and there is a small hole at the bottom to slowly let the fuel in and out of the tube. That way when you accelerate or brake the level doesn't jump around.

On my truck with the original float ball on the arm the gauge oscillates +/- a quarter tank taking off from every stop light if the tank is half full.

Augi

 

[1000eemonarch]

>> A note on the new style sender:
>> The float is in the tube and there is a small hole at the bottom to slowly let the fuel in and out of the tube.
>> That way when you accelerate or brake the level doesn't jump around.

Yep, that's kinda what I was thinking... I do think the new style fuel sender is a worthwhile upgrade.

Thanks for all the advise on fuel tank parts, I'm getting a new fuel sender and a whole pile of parts for the fuel tank, will post a list in a bit.

In the meantime while waiting for fuel tank parts, the cleaning process continues.... Nothing better than hosing down dusty CARC for a satisfying Friday afternoon. Amazing how much dust and random junk collects inside and on these things!

 

[1000eemonarch]

So, the goodie pile for the fuel tank includes:

NSN 2510-01-444-3360 Shield, Fuel Tank
NSN 2910-01-412-0047 Shield, Fuel Tank/Tcase (the two sheet metal pieces that bolt to the side of the tank, different than old fuel tank)
NSN 6680-01-484-5367 Kit, Fuel Level Sending Unit (New Style) (this better include the gasket)
NSN 4730-01-189-8854 Strainer, Body (the strainer "sock" on the fuel pickup tube)
NSN 4820-01-210-3488 Valve, Vent Fuel Tank
NSN 5325-01-210-2870 Grommet, Nonmetallic Valve Assy, Fuel Tank Vent (that's the rubber bushing for the vent valve above)
NSN 5340-01-244-5765 Plug, Drain, Fuel Tank
NSN 4720-01-212-8269 Hose, Nonmetallic Fuel Fillerneck To Tank, 5.5 inches
NSN 5340-01-301-7929 Bracket, Mounting, Rear axle differential (yes, I could have cut the ears off the old one. Apperently I like burning money lol)

in addition to the stuff I have already:

NSN 2910-01-447-391 Tank Asm, Fuel (new style)
NSN 5330-01-194-0473 Gasket, Fuel Tank Access Plate

I'm thinking there will be a few pipe fitting and things I'll toss at it as well, there appears to be a pipe plug I'll have to install on top of it.... Lets see if all the parts above are actually correct once the show up!

Thanks for all the input on what to address.. And yes, getting a new strainer sock is worth it. The old one is nasty (honestly the design is kinda lame IHMO). If I wanted to get fancy I'm sure I can find a cheaper or a more awesome replacement, but at the moment I'm keeping it simple and just replacing it with stock.

 

[1000eemonarch]

Oh, more on the strainer sock.... It looks like there's some different variations of it. Saw this one, and seller claims the same NSN number as the regular one:



Looks kinda fancy compared to the standard one. Priced the same. I'm still trying to understand the manufacturing technique (looks like fine metal mesh that's spot welded to machined stainless steel pieces). The regular one appears to be a mix of plastic and maybe brass, I'll find out more as I destroy it haha..

Whatcha all think on the "fancy" metal sock vs the plastic one. Wonder if the same NSN number covers different manufacturers and styles....

 

[TOBASH]

Hey! Just put a sock in it already!

 

[1000eemonarch]

>> Hey! Just put a sock in it already!

Hahah I'm working on it! Just fun to explore, learn and sniff the flowers along the way,,, I sent the seller of that metal sock a message asking for details, I bet he looks at it and is like "what an annoying shopper" lol

I was sitting there thinking about buying both, comparing them and trying to send back the one I didn't like. Then I thought about making my own (the talk of brazing/soldering/welding fittings and fancy metal screen strainers...). Yeah, really, like too much OCD on the sock already? We haven't even started talking about doors or anything hardcore yet.

 

[1000eemonarch]

Getting ready for round two of pressure washing... Stretch wrapped and taped all the fuel lines and stuff down there...



Tempting to lift this thing with a forklift at odd angles to make washing easier...

 

[1000eemonarch]

Yep, this makes washing her easier.... (Getting ready for hate comments re the safety aspects of this)




I need another front lifting shackle...



And yes, crawling underneath it like that is a no-no....

 

[1000eemonarch]

Looks much nicer under there now!

 

[1000eemonarch]

So, while waiting for fuel tank parts and other goodies, starting to think about the alternator. The 60A in it overcharges....

The way I'm understanding this is:

Wire 568A is the "enable". With this wire disconnected, the alternator does not produce output. With it connected, battery voltage quickly goes above 30V.
The voltage adjustment screw makes no difference.
Wire 2A is a bit of a mystery to me. It goes to the protective control box and to a frequency switch inside, right? So that tells the box that the engine is running? So shouldn't affect alternator output (not related to my problem), right?

Should I do anything else to test this thing? I mean, it seems like the regulator on the alternator is bad.... or am I missing something?

I did buy a 200A Niehoff dual voltage alternator to play with... It may or may not need repair, but I figure it maybe more fun (ie. a better investment of time) to repair the 200A and install that rather than repairing the 60A.

 

[TOBASH]

Going back to the original replies... Stop spending money until she is titled and registered.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

RWH, any other materials suitable to make a sock?

I know you probably wouldn't do that RWH, but the AMG can't be the only manufacturer that used socks?

I haven’t found anything available, but frankly, for the time and effort, it’s not worth it.
Your going to install it one time in the life of the truck most likely.
there are other crossover part numbers and they were used in civilian vehicles as well, but so far
every crossover number shows no stock.