Gunfreak25
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5 inches, this was the distance between the front and rear mounting holes.
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
My GMC, a little update
- Thread starter Gunfreak25
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Very smart. Makes you want to build a drillpress that works upside down doesn't it?
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Master's Cylinder
Master Cylinder is on it's way. Check condition and let me know if it works.
If it does we celebrate, if not plan "B".
Tracking number is in you PM.
Strange weather days indeed, wind blowing trucks off highway, highway signs over and nearly all the hair off my head. Snow, cold and rain I can handle, the wind is an unusual bear........ The Coming Global Super-storm.....brrrrrr.
Do you need a hand posting pictures?
Master Cylinder is on it's way. Check condition and let me know if it works.
If it does we celebrate, if not plan "B".
Tracking number is in you PM.
Strange weather days indeed, wind blowing trucks off highway, highway signs over and nearly all the hair off my head. Snow, cold and rain I can handle, the wind is an unusual bear........ The Coming Global Super-storm.....brrrrrr.
Do you need a hand posting pictures?
Stan Leschert
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Dave, You never cease to amaze me!
Gunfreak25
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Okay, playing hookie from the workbench to post up a few pics and a little pic info for Digger Dave, we know he gets a wad in his panties when pictures don't get posted. As he always say's, "document everything!!". From L to R:
-Tcase moved back
-Showing Np231
-Two flat bars made to extend linkage. I'm calling these "adapter plates". Measurements if anyone wants them. The Tcase shifter rod itself has square edges which mate with the square ends of the flat bars which keep them from swiveling up/down. The bolts used are 3/8 course Grade 8 and take the place of the old clevis and cotter pins. The rear bolt is torqued to 40 ft lbs to further prevent movement. The front bolt is secured with two nuts torqued against one another so the rods/bolt can still slide up and down in the linkage fulcrum. Easy stuff.
-Rear pic of Tcase
-Side pic, you will need some angle iron brackets to connect the rear mounting bolts. The front 4 are simply not enough. 2x5 angle will do, 2x4 is too short. Must be 7/16 plate or even 1/4. I picked up some angle today but have NO time left in my schedule.
-Inside of shifter tower. On the front left corner is a push button starter switch I installed with some aluminum angle iron I formed in the vice to make a bracket. Is secured using existing top plate screw. The original 3/8 clevis pin connecting the original starter linkage rod is replaced with a long 3/8 bolt to act as the "finger" for the push button switch. The head is ground smooth and the end is drilled to retain a cotter pin like the original clevis pin. Works beautifully.
-Pic showing starter switch depressed with hand lever (it is so cool!!)
-Brand new gear reduction 24V starter installed with proper bolts and homemade starter support bracket. I was not paying $17 for a piece of 1x1 angle 4" long with 2 holes drilled in it.
-Powertrain length is no longer an issue. See all the room I have up front between the HMMWV fan and radiator. Moving the original Transfer back was a great idea!
When time permits I'll get the rest of the linkage stuff made and posted. Okay, out of time. I am currently taking in so much gun work I am backlogged. I am taking in more than I can send out at a given time which is a good kind of problem I guess.
The to do list is getting shorter.....
-Tcase moved back
-Showing Np231
-Two flat bars made to extend linkage. I'm calling these "adapter plates". Measurements if anyone wants them. The Tcase shifter rod itself has square edges which mate with the square ends of the flat bars which keep them from swiveling up/down. The bolts used are 3/8 course Grade 8 and take the place of the old clevis and cotter pins. The rear bolt is torqued to 40 ft lbs to further prevent movement. The front bolt is secured with two nuts torqued against one another so the rods/bolt can still slide up and down in the linkage fulcrum. Easy stuff.
-Rear pic of Tcase
-Side pic, you will need some angle iron brackets to connect the rear mounting bolts. The front 4 are simply not enough. 2x5 angle will do, 2x4 is too short. Must be 7/16 plate or even 1/4. I picked up some angle today but have NO time left in my schedule.
-Inside of shifter tower. On the front left corner is a push button starter switch I installed with some aluminum angle iron I formed in the vice to make a bracket. Is secured using existing top plate screw. The original 3/8 clevis pin connecting the original starter linkage rod is replaced with a long 3/8 bolt to act as the "finger" for the push button switch. The head is ground smooth and the end is drilled to retain a cotter pin like the original clevis pin. Works beautifully.
-Pic showing starter switch depressed with hand lever (it is so cool!!)
-Brand new gear reduction 24V starter installed with proper bolts and homemade starter support bracket. I was not paying $17 for a piece of 1x1 angle 4" long with 2 holes drilled in it.
-Powertrain length is no longer an issue. See all the room I have up front between the HMMWV fan and radiator. Moving the original Transfer back was a great idea!
When time permits I'll get the rest of the linkage stuff made and posted. Okay, out of time. I am currently taking in so much gun work I am backlogged. I am taking in more than I can send out at a given time which is a good kind of problem I guess.
The to do list is getting shorter.....
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Master Cylinder
Too Funny Stan, tracked the Master Cylinder and it just left Vancouver.
Probably out your back door. I could have hauled it to Kelowna last year, had
your guy pick it up last month and it would have been in Vancouver a week
earlier.
The MC in question was supposed to come with me when I drove down the first
time........imagine, me forgetting something.
Gunnerfreak, don't get in such a hurry you can't get pics up. Still want to see it go together.
Too Funny Stan, tracked the Master Cylinder and it just left Vancouver.
Probably out your back door. I could have hauled it to Kelowna last year, had
your guy pick it up last month and it would have been in Vancouver a week
earlier.
The MC in question was supposed to come with me when I drove down the first
time........imagine, me forgetting something.
Gunnerfreak, don't get in such a hurry you can't get pics up. Still want to see it go together.
Gunfreak25
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Forgot to add. The shift tower is only temporarily mounted to the frame with welded on brackets to keep it in position. A custom cradle will be fabbed up utilizing 2 bellhousing bolts and some of the Np231 bolts to secure the shift tower solidly to the powertrain. I think this will provide a much better "feel" vibration wise at the shifter knob compared to if it were mounted to the chassis itself.
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Master Cylinder
Good timing Tom, I was about to drink.
Good timing Tom, I was about to drink.
Gunfreak25
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Not in a hurry on the GMC, in a hurry to get work done indoors. It will be weeks before I can get back to it but the good side of it is, when I do I should be able to knock a whole bunch of stuff off the to do list.
Gunfreak25
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Well I got dooped. I sent payment for a York 210 compressor in January and never received the compressor. Now the guy ignores my emails and phone call's. Oh well. Move on.
Found another York 210 for a few bucks more but it is complete down to the fittings (hard to get) and clutch. Probably have it in a week or so. No, those toes are not mine. I own nail clippers.
Found another York 210 for a few bucks more but it is complete down to the fittings (hard to get) and clutch. Probably have it in a week or so. No, those toes are not mine. I own nail clippers.
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hippiedude
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Man that truck is looking GREAT !!!!!!!!!! 
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Starter switch
Finally had the opportunity to look at the pics closely. I understand you're busy
with "Stock Smithing" a bunch of guns so to avoid panty wadding I am going
commando until you get back at the truck.
Even if I need to wait until fall.
The switch is simply genius. That's much easier then chasing a switch down the
linkage under the truck........dry, hidden....awesome.
When we built the pontoon boat from a couple of aluminum drop tanks I was
taught the importance of separating metals. You know more about metal then
most however for the millions that will read your post in the future.........
Big word of the day is "galvanic corrosion" Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Thanks for the updates Gunfreak. Work safe.
Finally had the opportunity to look at the pics closely. I understand you're busy
with "Stock Smithing" a bunch of guns so to avoid panty wadding I am going
commando until you get back at the truck.
Even if I need to wait until fall.The switch is simply genius. That's much easier then chasing a switch down the
linkage under the truck........dry, hidden....awesome.
When we built the pontoon boat from a couple of aluminum drop tanks I was
taught the importance of separating metals. You know more about metal then
most however for the millions that will read your post in the future.........
Big word of the day is "galvanic corrosion" Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Thanks for the updates Gunfreak. Work safe.
Gunfreak25
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Both of you goofy Canadians are going to make me pee myself I am laughing so hard. Mock my words, Seatyger, M1010Plowboy, Gunfreak25 and Stan Leschart will meet up in the next year or two for some 6x6 action and elbow bending.
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Nice work Tom. Cannot wait to see more. Pics appreciated!
Gunfreak25
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For those who are unfamiliar with the 6.2's fuel inlet/outlet system. It is very simple. Fuel runs from the stock in tank pump, through the stock fuel line on the frame rail under the steering box where it stops at the shutoff cock. Run a hard line from this cock to a good firewall mounted diesel fuel filter, from the filter it goes straight into the back of the injection pump via plain rubber fuel hose for flexibility.
Fuel return is just as simple and starts at the little 1/4 steel tube on the right side of the motors timing cover area. From here you run a return line along the passenger side frame rail, behind the cab and connect it to the unused port ontop of all GMC fuel tanks.
The unused port has a 3/8" NPT pipe plug with a square head. I removed this plug and installed a 3/8" reducer bushing that would accept a smaller fuel fitting elbow. I went with a compression type fitting which will accept 1/4" copper tubing. Below are pics of the two fittings you can find at home depot.
That is the fuel system in a nutshell. Use rubber coated line clamps wherever you can to secure any hardline tubing to the frame rails to keep vibration/chaffing down. These can be found at home depot as well.
Yes I know, the wood blocks under the motor mounts. I found that raising the motor another 3 inches would help in some areas with clearance. So I have to make a new set of mounts. No big deal.
Fuel return is just as simple and starts at the little 1/4 steel tube on the right side of the motors timing cover area. From here you run a return line along the passenger side frame rail, behind the cab and connect it to the unused port ontop of all GMC fuel tanks.
The unused port has a 3/8" NPT pipe plug with a square head. I removed this plug and installed a 3/8" reducer bushing that would accept a smaller fuel fitting elbow. I went with a compression type fitting which will accept 1/4" copper tubing. Below are pics of the two fittings you can find at home depot.
That is the fuel system in a nutshell. Use rubber coated line clamps wherever you can to secure any hardline tubing to the frame rails to keep vibration/chaffing down. These can be found at home depot as well.
Yes I know, the wood blocks under the motor mounts. I found that raising the motor another 3 inches would help in some areas with clearance. So I have to make a new set of mounts. No big deal.
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nattieleather
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Hmmwv motor I see. I thought you had a CUCV one, but now looking at the manifolds you have a Hmmwv one. How do you plan to make the glow plugs work?
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Air Hydraulic Cylinder
I wrote a letter to Bendix to ask about saving our air paks.
They gave me this [FONT='PrimaSans BT,Verdana,sans-serif']Precision Rebuilders @ 636-629-1444
I have not made the call yet but was told these guys could help us out with kits or parts.
(Insert fat balding guy on knees with hands clasped icon)
I'm swamped but thought I'd give the number up if someone gets a chance to call them.
[/FONT]
I wrote a letter to Bendix to ask about saving our air paks.
They gave me this [FONT='PrimaSans BT,Verdana,sans-serif']Precision Rebuilders @ 636-629-1444
I have not made the call yet but was told these guys could help us out with kits or parts.
(Insert fat balding guy on knees with hands clasped icon)
I'm swamped but thought I'd give the number up if someone gets a chance to call them.
[/FONT]
Gunfreak25
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The truck is staying 24V and I am going to make a harness for the glow plug's. Although in reality, I should only need them a few times out of the year because it never gets below 40 here.
Good Find, Dave! There is also Brake Systems Inc here in the U.S that rebuilds them and stocks parts. (503) 236-2116. The man to speak with is Dale who has experience in all the Military air pack's as well as all of the civilian air pack's used over the years in different vehicles.
Good Find, Dave! There is also Brake Systems Inc here in the U.S that rebuilds them and stocks parts. (503) 236-2116. The man to speak with is Dale who has experience in all the Military air pack's as well as all of the civilian air pack's used over the years in different vehicles.
Hello Junior,
After our last phone conversation I will be going to take the tools out to the trucks this weekend to remove the 'Stubby' shafts for you. I have some ear muffs for the Kids in case the bolts cause me to lessen the layers of skin on my knuckles.
I realize your young and all and probably dont have near the experience making an a$$ out of yourself like we do here but you dont have to be shy and only request the short stubby ones. You can have the longer ones as well in case your measuring was off! Or need to cut or add etc.
The girls here are more impressed with the big ones and it shouldnt be any different down there? If your nervous about receiving shafts in the mail and your neighbours seeing them being delivered I can have them wrapped in discreet plain paper wrapping!
Whatever works for you Kid, Just let me know and we'll get them off and on their way on the 3:10 to Yuma!
PS- Thanks for the 6.2 Tech reference information. You saved me a lot of time I dont have to waste on the interweb digging through mounds of useless crap to get to the required stuff.
After our last phone conversation I will be going to take the tools out to the trucks this weekend to remove the 'Stubby' shafts for you. I have some ear muffs for the Kids in case the bolts cause me to lessen the layers of skin on my knuckles.
I realize your young and all and probably dont have near the experience making an a$$ out of yourself like we do here but you dont have to be shy and only request the short stubby ones. You can have the longer ones as well in case your measuring was off! Or need to cut or add etc.
The girls here are more impressed with the big ones and it shouldnt be any different down there? If your nervous about receiving shafts in the mail and your neighbours seeing them being delivered I can have them wrapped in discreet plain paper wrapping!
Whatever works for you Kid, Just let me know and we'll get them off and on their way on the 3:10 to Yuma!
PS- Thanks for the 6.2 Tech reference information. You saved me a lot of time I dont have to waste on the interweb digging through mounds of useless crap to get to the required stuff.