My GMC, a little update

[m1010plowboy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X7PzZJXbi8

Welcome home General

 

[Gunfreak25]

Well I thought finishing that box of AIR PAK parts would a great way to kick off re-entering the GMC zone. A Mr.Nathan Bequette from Precision Rebuilders was who I had written down as a parts source and guru on the model 2500685 AIR PAK. Wouldn't you know it, he is on Facebook and for the past couple day's has been helping me gather the parts I need to slap the AIR PAK back together. I should have the parts ordered by tomorrow if he gets back to me.



A piece of advice from Nathan, if your AIR CAN ever has any deep pitting it can be filled with JB weld then honed clean. He does it on any that come in pitted. He does not however, recommend using JB weld on any hydraulic side cylinder bores. That would be stupid.

 

[nattieleather]

Glad you got back on it... pics pics we need pics!

 

[USMC 00-08]

And part numbers!!

 

[Gunfreak25]

Nathan is mailing my AIR PAK bits tomorrow. For the price of postage I might add. So a big hats off to Nathan Bequette and Precision Rebuilders.

Hit NAPA this morning. 2 wheel bearings and 2 races for $117. That's $20 cheaper than Memphis Equipment. Here are the part numbers

BR39590 Wheel Bearing, Cone type $33 each
BR39520 Bearing, Race $20 each

I will be working with Nathan to put together a parts kit for our AIR PAK's too, along with individual part numbers and price lists. Nathan is experimenting with a way to sleeve pitted air can's which are hard to get.

 

[hendersond]

Tom,
Hit me with a list. I got wheel bearings and brakes coming out my ears here.

Can ya take them back? I can save you 110$ and they will ship before noon Friday!

I stripped a truck this summer. Got a bunch of stuff that needs a home!

 

[Gunfreak25]

Dan, I certainly can!! They are still unopened. I need 2 rear wheel bearings and their corresponding races for 1 wheel hub. All the other wheels looked great except that one which had pitted bearings. I'll shoot you $20 for postage brother!! Very much obliged....

List? You got it Dan......

-Tailight stop and marker light bucket assemblies. I can rebuild the wires inside but mine had rotted guts. Need 2 of each.

-Master cylinder, mine was pitted beyond hone-ibility (yeah I made that up) and the one Dave graciously sent is also a little rough, but more honing might clean it up. I have a kit also provided by mr.Dave-o



Let me know what you got and what ya need $$ for the pieces. Man, you guys take the cake. Always.

 

[hendersond]

OK I'll start digging the taillights outa the garbage. I'll get everything set out in the next couple hours and let you know what I got. I'll need your address.

 

[hendersond]

I think I gota couple masters too. met me look.

 

[hendersond]

I found the bearings and race sets. Want 3 or 4? Also found the master, It worked when removed, so it should be good.
Are you looking for taillight buckets, lenses or the bulb mount crap?

 

[m1010plowboy]

G749 Air Pak

Tom,
I got wheel bearings and brakes coming out my ears here.

OUCH! That's gotta hurt.

I have a G749 Air Pak Kit Gunner if you need comparisons or details.

 

[hambone]

Are there any master cyl. kits and air-pak kits available? I may need one. Thanks, Hambone

 

[Section8]

Gunfreak,
Would you happen to, or anyone else, know how to take a master cylinder apart?
I have tried to take mine apart to see if it is pitted and need a rebuild but I can only get as far as removing the rod and the line bolts.
I cannot figure out how to remove the cone to get at the springloaded cylinder.
Plus how in the heck did the master push fluid if, from what I see in my master cylinder, there is no give in the cone or venting holes as such to push fluid through and not have fluid every where since mine had a solid metal rod that bottomed out in the cone once depressed.
I aint the smartest so make big pictures with them perty crayons for me.
Thanks

 

[SturmTyger380]

Awhile back I gave Nathan a call and he was helpful and we e-mailed back and forth but then he stopped and I lost contact. Since then I found an NOS kit after I had bought a 5 ton kit. I was going to take pictures of both to compare but been doing other things.

Gunfreak if you could come up with a list of parts with numbers and a way to order from Nathan's company that would be great. When I asked him the question about the difference between the rubber seal of the hydraulic cylinder on the air side vs the fluid side he said it didn't matter and they could be the same. Have you heard the same?

 

[Gunfreak25]

Today was a big day. Got my refund on my wheel bearings, and dropped the block and crank off for machine work today. Also picked up a new phone last night so I am able to take 720p HD video now along with pics again.


Section8, there is a snap ring (more of a spring wire clip) inside under the dust boot that must be removed before the piston and spring come flying out into your face. It's possible it's dry inside and the rubber boots are sticking to the bore and binding, or it's just so fithly or rusty inside it doesn't want to come apart.

SturmTyger, as far as the difference between the air side and hydraulic side control valve piston seals he said one is just harder than the other to resist galling from foreign matter and the sheer pressure of the hydraulic fluid. The V lips on the seals are installed opposite of eachother and they are interchangeable by all means.

He also said when using the neoprene rubber air piston cup seal (the big 4" one) it is not necessary to use the rope wick which is only there to absorb air tool oil to keep things lubed. He replaces the wick with a metal expander ring which is further expanded by the flat coil spring that looks like a dip stick. He uses a grease on the piston and doesn't see the need to really lube it very often as the neoprene is pretty self lubricating unlike the old leather seals.

 

[Gunfreak25]

Sorry I didn't see this sooner Dan, I mostly need the light bucket guts since mine were totally corroded and flaking apart but a couple of my buckets themselves also have broken off screws inside and it would be easiest to just use another bucket. So whatever you can spare.

I only need 2 sets of bearing/races but if you want to add another spare set I won't complain! Hit me with postage of course it's the least I can do for you.

Little wash down today to celebrate re-entering the OD green zone. Pic below

 

[SturmTyger380]

He also said when using the neoprene rubber air piston cup seal (the big 4" one) it is not necessary to use the rope wick which is only there to absorb air tool oil to keep things lubed. He replaces the wick with a metal expander ring which is further expanded by the flat coil spring that looks like a dip stick. He uses a grease on the piston and doesn't see the need to really lube it very often as the neoprene is pretty self lubricating unlike the old leather seals.

That sounds like he really knows what's going on with these. Do you think he might ever offer a kit with the updated parts? Alan

 

[hendersond]

It sure is a good thing you did not send me your address or I would have sent out the bare light buckets today like I promised!

Truck looks good. It will be a large flat rate priority box. There should be room. Anything else or do I need to take up the space with old underwear and sox?

 

[Gunfreak25]

I totally forgot Dan! I've been non stop since this morning and am winding down for the day at 9:20. Bout my usual bed time these day's. You can skip the socks but I do need new chonies. The elastic in mine are plum worn out! Leave out the ones with bacon strips.

PM headed yer way.

 

[hendersond]

I totally forgot Dan! I've been non stop since this morning and am winding down for the day at 9:20. Bout my usual bed time these day's. You can skip the socks but I do need new chonies. The elastic in mine are plum worn out! Leave out the ones with bacon strips.

PM headed yer way.

Funny how you used to post all night long. Its just us northerners now in the middle of the night.
I'll fill the gaps with something worthwhile... and heavy.