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My GMC, a little update

jj

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When faced with little metal wheels and soft dirt, a couple of sheets of 3/4" plywood can be your best friend. Makes a nice temporary "paved road".
 

Gunfreak25

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Yuma, AZ
Thanks! That's what i'll probably end up doing again. I used some half inch plywood and even that worked beautifully to get the motor pulled. I'll get the pics in a few minutes, need new batteries for the camera. I did get everything cleaned up though, got more painting done and organized a lot of nuts and bolts into labeled containers. I'll probably just keep this post alive with updates instead of my old post when I was first inquiring about picking up my little GMC.
 

Gunfreak25

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Yuma, AZ
I spent 3.5 hours today in the 115 heat dragging this motor on my hoist through the soft dirt. I was determined to get it moved from the back of the truck, to the front. I can't believe I did it either, moved it inch by inch. Literally, but I did it!!!!! Before the sun went down I snapped up some pictures. Remember, there's lots of stuff that's been removed or disassembled for one reason or another. The truck is 100% complete.

I'll make updates when I can, but I have a lot of work at home to catch up to. Gotta make money to keep the restoration going. But I promise I will keep everybody up to speed with lots of pictures to come. That includes finishing my wheel services, motor mounts, air compressor mount, etc.
 

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Gunfreak25

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Yuma, AZ
I was able to fiddle around with the GMC air compressor this evening, how I will fit it onto the 6.2. I'm coming up with some pretty slick ideas, it shouldn't be that difficult to do. My biggest concern was with the unique radiator hose inlet on the top of the 6.2 motors. I think it will be right in the path of the air compressor belt. So, I just learned about that flex radiator hose I didn't know existed. Pretty slick stuff, it has a corrugated steel interior so it forms where you want it, with a rubber exterior to keep it watertight. That should take care of any potential issues with the belt chaffing on the hose.

I'm just awaiting the arrival of my crank pulley to do further work. I will be taking pictures of the process with lots of blueprints made. That way anybody looking to do this in the future will really have it made.
 

armytruck63

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Location
Redlands, CA
The upper radiator hose is protected by a little metal "rub guard" when this engine is used in a CUCV. I can post a picture if you need one.
 

Gunfreak25

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Location
Yuma, AZ
I figured if the compressor belt interferes and flex pipe won't solve the issue, I could form some thin metal hanger that would "push" the hose in a direction that will provide some clearance. Pictures would be appreciated, to get an idea. Thank you! :beer:
 

armytruck63

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Location
Redlands, CA
Here are pictures of the "rub guard" for the radiator hose on a CUCV. You'll notice it's doing its job here. This belt is stretched and will need replacement soon. I hope the pictures make sense - it's a little hard to take pictures of this at night on my driveway. The piece is semi-circular and held on by the hose clamp. The belt shouldn't rub against the guard constantly, but if the clearance is tight the guard will protect the hose from a bouncing or broken belt.
 

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Gunfreak25

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Location
Yuma, AZ
A few more pics this evening. I decided to keep the generator and regulator. I will have to redo the mount since it was on the 455. Easy enough though, and it saves me $100 which helps me get on the road quicker. I cracked it open this evening, easier to open than a can of beans. It needs new brushes and bearings.
I'll clean out all the junk, solder new wires in and put it back together. The wrappings on the copper windings are like new! I see no reason to replace them.

I have a little transmission work to do later so I propped it up on the 6.2 crate.
Needs new TC seal, pump seal, shifter shaft O ring, filler tube O ring, filter change and I'm going to install a drain plug on the pan. The temp sender will go on the cooler lines.

For those interested you can also see how the prev owner used the stock Hydramatic yolk on the Th400 output. They also used a 2 core radiator from a 60's Chevelle. Simple flat stock mounts. It may or may not cool this vehicle.
It needs a rodding/recore anyway.

Later i'll show how to take apart, clean and reassemble the wiper motors.

My parts shipped today, I can't wait to polish the manifolds up. Humvee's used stainless steel headers!
 

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greentoys

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byron, minnesota
When i repower something I ocasionally end up needing a very long, odd shaged radiater hose. I make up some shrpe corners by using copper plumbing fittings. then connect them with the proper lenght of radiater hose.
it may work for you.
I have a M37 with a 5.9 Cummins and 75 Plymouth Duster radiater with hoses made that way.
Ray
 

Oldfart

Active member
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Location
Centennial,CO
When i repower something I ocasionally end up needing a very long, odd shaged radiater hose. I make up some shrpe corners by using copper plumbing fittings. then connect them with the proper lenght of radiater hose.
it may work for you.
I have a M37 with a 5.9 Cummins and 75 Plymouth Duster radiater with hoses made that way.
Ray
The M37 uses bent metal tubes as well to make some bends around the fan blade. ~~ When you get ready to fit the engine/transmission in place, it would be easier if you had the front clip removed or at least the fenders and inner panels out of the way. You should have some extra length (shorter engine) to consider placement options. It is cheaper to use the existing rear propeller shaft set up, but you need to consider a fan shroud to make sure you draw air over the radiator (reason for moving the engine forward.) ~~ I think your project has the makings of a significant repower for the old Jimmys. The government is putting lots of the 6.2 HUMMV's take outs on the market along with their stock of 6.2's relating to the CUCV's. The 302 GMC sixes are getting harder to find and they are a little on the under powered side for such heavy trucks. There could be an after market for mounting kits for this engine conversion (would need to design so as to keep placement of old GMC transmission or allow for conversion of transmission to something else). Such kits exist for converting M37's to Chevy small block V8.
 
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Gunfreak25

Well-known member
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620
113
Location
Yuma, AZ
Thanks for the PM Oldfart, and your input on here. Your CUCV story was especially inspirational. A lot of people have been saying it will be a real dog with a 6.2. They forget that a vehicle designed with pure WWII technology, 1920 tire design and a single circuit braking system was designed with 1 purpose in mind. That is to move lots of weight over bad terrain at low speeds. Pushing a nearly 60 year old vehicle past it's design specifications is just stupid and unsafe. A wise man once told me that a candle burning twice as bright, burns our twice as fast.

As for a fan shroud, i've got that taken care of too.

DIY Fan Shroud - Do It Yourself Hot Rod Kustom Website
 

Oldfart

Active member
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Location
Centennial,CO
Sunday evening I drove my M220 home from the Rocky Mountain Air Show. I slowed to 20 on a couple of long steep grades, but for the most part I was above 40 and there were some sections where I managed 55 MPH. The old dual range GMC Hydromatic just has a hard time downshifting soon enough to keep speed on hills. I would think stock tires and gearing with the higher torque 6.2 at essentially the same RPM as the 302 inline 6 should wind up with the same sorts of top speeds and better acceleration plus the ability to hold a higher speed on hills.
 
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