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My M1009 has died new curve ball thrown Updated

cucvrus

Well-known member
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113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
The top fuel pump is incorrect. The spring over the lever and the slight curve in the lever make it incorrect. It will fit on the CUCV perfectly but the eccentric on the engine does not depress the lever far enough to get fuel delivery. If you hold this pump in your hand and depress the lever it has no resistance until deep into the depression cycle.

The fuel pump on the bottom is the correct one. Note the spring will be under the lever set back into the housing and the lever is short and straight. The resistance is immediate on lever compression and the pumping takes place within the first 3/4" - 1" of compression. I hope that helps.

I attached the correct one from Autozone. https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/fuel-pump/delphi-diesel-fuel-pump-chfp906/489890_0
1675639251554.png
 

Salty dog

Active member
112
175
43
Location
Spring, Texas
The top fuel pump is incorrect. The spring over the lever and the slight curve in the lever make it incorrect. It will fit on the CUCV perfectly but the eccentric on the engine does not depress the lever far enough to get fuel delivery. If you hold this pump in your hand and depress the lever it has no resistance until deep into the depression cycle.

The fuel pump on the bottom is the correct one. Note the spring will be under the lever set back into the housing and the lever is short and straight. The resistance is immediate on lever compression and the pumping takes place within the first 3/4" - 1" of compression. I hope that helps.

I attached the correct one from Autozone. https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/fuel-pump/delphi-diesel-fuel-pump-chfp906/489890_0
View attachment 890355
I appreciate all the help
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,437
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
You can clearly see the difference. Does it have resistance immediately upon compression of the lever? I mean immediately. It must have that. The eccentric on the cam will not compress any farther to get the delayed resistance on the curved lever pumps. Good Luck. I stock 2 of the correct pumps because they had been difficult to find.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,721
19,768
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Do you guys recommend using RTV with the paper gaskets or just the paper gaskets by themselves? I am getting in the gym tomorrow to install the correct pump if my arthritis isn’t too bad
.
Everybody has an opinion, but a little RTV to hold the gasket in place while you put on whatever pan (valve cover, timing cover, water pump, etc) in position REALLY is a way to hold gaskets so they don't slip. At least that is my opinion...
 

shepherm

New member
29
5
1
Location
Mustang, Oklahoma
Do you guys recommend using RTV or just the paper gaskets ? I am getting in the garage tomorrow to install the correct pump if my arthritis isn’t too bad
Unless I'm trying to seal a hard corner I never use RTV anymore.. Its such a mess to clean up and there are a ton of better products out there for coating paper gaskets. For the paper gasket you can use something like Permatex "super 300" or "High tack"
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
Gaskets go on dry as much as possible. Coating gaskets causes gasket extrusion.

RTV and Anaerobic gasket makers are the best and most current options for form in place. All of the other stuff is obsolete at this point.

For the fuel pump, I used no gaskets, just anaerobic gasket maker. I don't suggest RTV because it's permeable and can seep oil if they're submerged. The bottom of the pump adapter plate pools oil and would be a poor candidate for a RTV.
 

Salty dog

Active member
112
175
43
Location
Spring, Texas
Had some time to work on the lift pump, arthritis and a torn rotator cuff have kept me sidelined. Was able to get the pump bolted up but can not get the solid fuel line to connect. Any tips/ help would be appreciated
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,437
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have always removed the #2 alternator and laid it aside. I also remove the P clamp that holds the hard line to the block. It gives you a bit of wiggle room to get that flare nut started. I change the fuel pump from the top side and only go under to loosen and tighten the 2 M6 push rod cover bolts. That is my advise. I have changed many of these pumps. Good Luck.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
942
690
93
Location
Rochester NY
And I'd like to add, no one likes to cross thread stuff and cross threading the fuel line is a real PIA. So instead of just hoping you have it lined up and going to town with it try holding it in place and turning it backwards, YES backwards counterclockwise at least one full turn, do that slowly and many times you can feel the first thread drop into place, NOW you can go to town! Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosy!
 
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