My M1031 Contact Maintenance Truck project

[Skinny]

Before you buy anything, you should ask yourself what you want to do with the truck. I converted over to 120/240 because I wanted house power back up. This required changing out the compressor motor and doing some rewiring in the panel. Just a good decision to make and standby if purchasing new equipment.

Sounds like you need to just bite the bullet for a new controller. You are in the same boat as me...fried controller. At least stock setup teased me with proper operation for year before losing its mind!

 

[b4thundr]

I have old boxes that I've taken outta trucks. I was gonna try n make some of them work, but I still haven't found time!

 

[Skinny]

Probably a waste of time at that. I personally like making old things work since it is the definition of recycling or probably more like restoration. For such a key component of the generator function, having a questionable controller is not piece of mind. I will be looking at your APECS controller shortly...again. Mine was working fine and then went x's for eyes a few weeks ago. Looks like it burned a piece of circuit board up right after the two main resistors that are after the 12v power feed coming in. Not sure what other damage it did but I'm done trying to keep this thing functioning!

The metal box would make a really nice switch or fuse panel though

 

[b4thundr]

Yeah I hear ya man, the 4500's just work period. Three years in the farm service truck and works great every time!!

 

[CUCV_ut]

Hello

Thanks to everyone who replied, sorry I've been gone for so long. It's been a very busy summer. I finally did just abandon the old system and get rid of the 3 control boxes. I had a friend end up giving me a Woodward DPG controller that was used on a marine generator. I normally would have gone with the new APECS controller since it is state of the art and extremely rugged, but I couldn't resist trying the free one first. I called Woodward to ask about the current output and what actuators it would work with and they said that it would handle the original actuator just fine. This model uses a simple RJ-11 port for serial communications, so I just built a cable from an old phone cord and a DB-9 connector. When you first try and set it up you should definitely unhook the actuator since the default setting on these are about twice as high as you would want to run your engine for the generator. Unless you love tinkering with settings for days I would really suggest getting the APECS controller that is already setup from the user on here. While installing it I decided to keep the original relay / safety system. I had it functioning this spring, but still needed to fine tune some of the settings to keep the frequency from wandering. It was actually working good. When I had some time again this month I went out to work on it again and got another surprise. When I engage the governor it revs up then drops back down to idle. I thought maybe there was something wrong with my controller but then noticed that it was putting out full power to the actuator but it wasn't moving. Does anyone have any experience with the actuator? Can it be taken apart and cleaned up? If you try and move the arm on it by hand it is very tough to move, like it has some major spring tension pushing it back to the idle position. Has anyone every replaced their actuator with a different model?

 

[Keith_J]

Throttle actuator uses variable current so if you have an issue with it, check all microswitches as they must transmit 5-10 amperes and mine were dirty, leading to the same issues with lack of actuator authority. As in frequency dropping off with heavy loads.

Yes, there is considerable spring force returning the throttle closed.

I would like to install and APECS controller in mine, just have not had a reply from B4Thunder

 

[CUCV_ut]

Thanks for the hint about checking the switches, those are always a pain. I'm still fighting the Drive selector switch, right now I removed it and taped the switch in the right position. I'll also hook up the actuator to 12v and check the current to see if it is getting choked through all the various switches. The reason I wanted to fire it up and get the kinks worked out is because I finally got an air compressor installed. I kept hoping I would find someone who would ship one, but I couldn't find anyone with one that would. I ended up finding a 3 phase one locally that was brand new. It's not ideal as it is one for a fire sprinkler system, but I figure I could change out the pump eventually if I want to go higher pressure. It actually fit quite nicely right next to the belt guard for the generator.

 

[b4thundr]

I've been thinking of upgrading the air compressor but buy the time I'm ready to use it it's built up pressure. But running a 3/4 or 1" impact is a challenge.

 

[dependable]

If you are still working on the governor this manual might help.View attachment 1031 governer manual.pdf

 

[amgeneral72]

I've been thinking of upgrading the air compressor but buy the time I'm ready to use it it's built up pressure. But running a 3/4 or 1" impact is a challenge.

Seems to me the compressor in mine puts out lots of air. Iv thought about just adding a larger tank.

 

[AndyC]

Going to add an old air tank on mine from a M35 for more volume!

 

[CUCV_ut]

It's been a couple years since I updated this thread, but my M1031 is still my favorite truck and I've made a few more upgrades. I've gotten the generator to work reliably and have been focusing on the air compressor and lights. I always seem to be working on stuff when it gets dark and the box can get very dark. I tried some cold cathode compartment lights like you would find on a fire truck, but they just didn't put out the light. I finally ended up building a frame to flush mount some grote LED dome lights like you might find on a bus.


Towards the front of the truck you can see one of the older lights I tried. I do still use those in the large compartments where the generator control panel is and am going to put another in the welding torch side.

I liked AndyC's suggestion about adding an air brake tank from another truck.

My truck was missing the whole air compressor setup when I got it. The air tanks are great because they are aluminum so they're lighter weight.
Here's a picture of the whole side of the truck.

I used 1/2" air brake line to plumb in all the tanks and regulators. My air compressor is a fire sprinkler system compressor. It would only let me turn the air up to about 70, but I changed out the pressure switch and now it runs 100-120psi. It has ok flow but not like a shop air compressor. I've had this Sullair ES-5 compressor in the back of the truck for a while now. I've just gotten around to working on it. It's the smallest electric rotary screw compressor I've seen.

I added a 30 amp breaker to the panel and a 30 amp 3 phase 5 wire outlet.

I've tried powering up the compressor a couple times but it seems to blow the 30 amp breaker sometimes. I'm curious if any of the electrician gurus out there can give me some advice. The compressor has a 9 wire motor and was originally wired for 480v. I changed it to a low voltage WYE configuration (T4-T5-T6 tied together, T7-T1 to L1, T8-T2 to L2, T9-T3 to L3). Would that be appropriate for the generator in the truck or should it be wired in a delta?

 

[CUCV_ut]

Never mind on the Y vs. Delta wiring question. I had it correct the whole time. The compressor has a transformer to take the 3 phase and convert it to 120v (can't just use one phase to neutral because the compressor has just the 3 hots and a ground, no neutral). When I re-connected the transformer to select 208 instead of 480 volts I had one wire on a spare terminal so it wasn't connected to anything. Once I fixed that I had control voltage and tried the compressor for just a second. I had to swap two of the hots because it turned backwards. It ran but seemed to not be putting out air, after about 10 second I heard the loader click and it started blowing fast. I plumbed it into the existing air tanks and it was impressive. The specs say it puts out about 18 CFM at up to 125 PSI. The thing that impresses me the most is that it runs cool and it's very quiet, can barely hear it over the generator noise.



I'm debating removing the compressor and motor off the old compressor and mounting this on the tank but I'm not sure it wouldn't crush it. I did have a new problem when the compressor shut off, the lack of a load caused the engine to rev up and then trip the overspeed and shut off the controller. The old 1.5 HP compressor didn't ever do that, probably because it drew considerably less current. I'm wondering if I have the change speed rate setting in the woodward DPG set too slow. I slowed it down some because I was having a problem with the engine reving up when I engaged the governor then shutting down because it was over speed. It seems like that issue is caused by a touchy safety switch on the transfer case, maybe a current flow problem.

 

[dependable]

Nice work. What bulbs did you use for those original lights? I have a couple that came with mine, with no bulbs, would prefer to convert them to LED also.

 

[CUCV_ut]

Hello

By original, do you mean the flood lights mounted to the wall? I had the same problem with no bulbs. I looked up at the tool load list in the technical manual and searched every bulb listed until I found the spare bulbs for the floodlight. The NSN is 6240-00-553-1881 which translates into a commercial bulb number 300R3FL120V. That's a 300 watt 120v R40 style flood reflector with an E39 mogul base. If you search for the commercial number you can find them, they're probably $17 each. They do make a mogul to standard base adapter that will let you use light bulbs with the standard base in those lights. You could then use a LED flood bulb, but it wouldn't fit just right. I chose to track down the original bulbs as the fixtures have a seal the bulb touches which makes it weather resistant so water doesn't run in there if you're out in the rain. The lights are also good for keeping you warm while working on stuff.

 

[CUCV_ut]

I was tinkering with the woodward DPG governor control yesterday. I was adjusting some of the settings to see if I could stop it from shutting down the governor when the compressor stops and the lack of load causes the engine to rev up. I finally adjusted the %over-speed setting up about 10% more and now it doesn't trip the over-speed. When the compressor is on the voltage sags slightly and comes back up pretty quick. I watched it when the compressor shuts off- the voltage kicks up to 150v for about 3 seconds then drops back down to 120. Has anyone else measured their voltage when the compressor or welder shuts off? Is that normal for a generator to have a couple seconds of higher voltage when the load drops?

 

[Keith_J]

Voltage sag should not cause issue with frequency (RPM). Reduce the over speed threshold if the frequency does not exceed 65 Hz, the over speed should only protect for frequency over 70 Hz, that is the limit of the rotor. (3000 RPM). Even then, you have a good tolerance. These are tough rotors.

I had issues with the governor on mine not having enough "authority". All was fixed with one notch of authority on the under hood bellcrank. The actuator could not open the throttle enough. I might tune it one more notch on the shaft.

 

[CUCV_ut]

I was able to finally mount the rotary compressor in the truck. It came with a nice welded stand when I bought it, and it fit right above the generator. In the picture I still have the older blue air compressor, but I removed that to make room for the welder.

It seems the truck never has quite enough compartments, so I found a shelving unit from a van. The floor jack and military scissor jacks fit in the bottom compartment of the shelf quite nicely. I'll probably put the lng tools shown next to the end of the self in the bottom compartment too so I can strap the ibis tek tow bar where they are.


Once I removed the blue air compressor, I made a shelf out of a couple 2x2" with 1/2" OSB on top. I simply painted it desert tan to match the interior of the body. This fits just right in the welder compartment to make the floor level with the bed of the truck. It will be nice to have the welder sit level. It also gives me enough room to have the wire feed unit next to the welder. I have yet to try the welder out on the generator. It's a CST-280 miller and a 3045 FC wire feeder.

Does anyone know where I could find the welding gas bottle brackets that were used in the truck? I'd like to keep them original if I can find a set. I'll need to find a spot for a shielding gas cylinder as well. The shelf where it went above the generator originally was already missing when I bought the truck. I'm also on the lookout for a couple military extension cord reels.

 

[Keith_J]

I have the tank racks in my 1031. I'll get dimensions and pictures soon. I need them for my argon, acetylene and oxygen. Probably going to put the argon above the generator. I've already put the compressor above the generator to free up floor space. Made a rack from 1" square tube..that is a heavy compressor.

If your governor is working correctly, the generator will run your welders. My Dynasty 200 is perfectly happy on 208 three phase even though Miller doesn't list that voltage (120, 240 or 480, single or three phase). Even 200 amps shielded metal arc doesn't pull the frequency down. The governor was incorrectly installed from the factory, once I pulled the splined arm off the actuator and clocked it a few degrees, the governor was able to hold RPM under any load.

Next mod will be to increase the motor pulley on the compressor. The compressor is rated to 1200 RPM, it now spins about 900. Should be able to make it a solid 7 CFM at 100 PSI. That and a larger tank will mean better impact performance. Air is a must for me as I am installing an Air Lift rear suspension..I have too many heavy tools.

 

[CUCV_ut]

I've been out using the 1031 and just upgraded the go-light on top. I'm having a problem with the cab corner on the passenger side starting to rust, which got me looking into if there could be a leak in the roof. I found the dome cover that goes on to protect the go light and decided to get it installed.



Hopefully when I sealed that if there was a leak it will be fixed now.

My next thought on the truck was that it feels heavy. I'm sure mounting the compressor and shelves inside probably raised the center of gravity slightly too. I was thinking about converting it to dual rear wheels. I shouldn't be too hard to bend up some sheet metal to extend the fenders out. I've researched it on here and I'd appreciate if someone could check my thought on the conversion. For the front axle I would need dana 60 hubs for a dually and new rotors, or I could use adapters I've seen pictures of. I believe the rear axle is the cab and chassis GM 14 bolt. I've heard that they used this axle on dually cab and chassis trucks in the 90s, is that correct? Are there hubs out there for a 14 bolt corp axle made for dually setup? If there are and I went that way would the brake drum still line up or would I need other parts? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

The 1031 has been working reliably with the generator since my last post. It runs the air compressor well, but the voltage still swings a little when the compressor shuts down. I imagine I need to tweek the controller a little. Here's a picture of it out while we were repairing the pioneer tool trailer. I'll probably start another thread about that repair.