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My m925a1 build "Brutus"
- Thread starter muthkw25
- Start date
Decided to go in a different direction. Decided that I want to run an intercooler. I was given the crossover pipe and aftercooler. I didnt want to buy a new core for the aftercooler. I Was concerned if I have a failure down the road, the coolant could dump into the engine causing a failure.
Did some research and decided to go with a n14 intake. It bolts right up and flows better than the 250 intake. I'm planning on running a small intercooler. The truck is only going to make 15lbs boost. No need for a massive intercooler. I spoke with mishimoto and i'll go with one of their universal options. It will handle the cfm, and psi easily. I also have methanol so if I need extra cooling I can hit that to help drop intake temps on a large hill.
I don't know if anyone that's turboed a 900 series truck has used the n14 intake or not. Thought it would look cool. It's got a ton of pipe plugs to run boost, IATs, methanol, etc.
Got a great deal on it. The gentleman that sold me the intake has the Peterbuilt truck from Duel he's restoring.
I just need the boots, cooler, clamps and pipe. I'm going to modify my C channel bracket that I currently have for the mrap radiator. I have 14 inches from the top of the rad to the top of the inside hood so plenty of options for a nice intercooler.
Too large of an intercooler and I'd have lag. This should help if I'm towing my m1061a1 and shelter setup on long hills to help keep temps down.
Did some research and decided to go with a n14 intake. It bolts right up and flows better than the 250 intake. I'm planning on running a small intercooler. The truck is only going to make 15lbs boost. No need for a massive intercooler. I spoke with mishimoto and i'll go with one of their universal options. It will handle the cfm, and psi easily. I also have methanol so if I need extra cooling I can hit that to help drop intake temps on a large hill.
I don't know if anyone that's turboed a 900 series truck has used the n14 intake or not. Thought it would look cool. It's got a ton of pipe plugs to run boost, IATs, methanol, etc.
Got a great deal on it. The gentleman that sold me the intake has the Peterbuilt truck from Duel he's restoring.
I just need the boots, cooler, clamps and pipe. I'm going to modify my C channel bracket that I currently have for the mrap radiator. I have 14 inches from the top of the rad to the top of the inside hood so plenty of options for a nice intercooler.
Too large of an intercooler and I'd have lag. This should help if I'm towing my m1061a1 and shelter setup on long hills to help keep temps down.
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Put plugs in the intake where the original sensors went and used red rtv. Primed and used a self-etching primer.
Followed up with using a high temp flat black paint. I also bought a pressure gauge to monitor fuel pressure with a needle valve. In case I decided to increase the fuel down the road I'll be able to compare and monitor closely. Im going to mount to side of the shifter. Needle valve will also be nice to have in case I have a leak or failure on the road, I'll be able to shut the valve and stop any fuel leaks. I'm going to use ptfe line -4an line. More photos end of the week.
Followed up with using a high temp flat black paint. I also bought a pressure gauge to monitor fuel pressure with a needle valve. In case I decided to increase the fuel down the road I'll be able to compare and monitor closely. Im going to mount to side of the shifter. Needle valve will also be nice to have in case I have a leak or failure on the road, I'll be able to shut the valve and stop any fuel leaks. I'm going to use ptfe line -4an line. More photos end of the week.
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I ordered the fuel pressure gauge and a needle valve. I'll use the 1/8" npt port on the solenoid. This way if I decide to up pressure I can do so safely.
Im using pfte -4an line. Should have more photos soon.
Im using pfte -4an line. Should have more photos soon.
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I did the fuel pressure gauge install today. Bought a 2 5/8" autometer gauge to match my other gauges. Gauge went to 400 psi. To match my other auotmeter gauges I had to pick 200 or 400. Decided if I do turn the fuel up and I was to get over 200 I wouldn't be able to monitor it with the smaller gauge.
I used a 1/8"mpt to -4an 45 degree fitting that fit right in the fuel solenoid plug. Used 4an ptfe black braided stainless line and drilled a hole right above the 2 air line connections above the gas pedal.
Decided to put the needle valve right before the gauge. Reason being it's easier to adjust if I need to make changes to keep the gauge from fluctuating. I also used it to burp the air out of the line and made no mess in the cab.
It also lets me cut the fuel off if I have a leak. I'll bring the plug with me so if the line were to fail I can always plug it back up and keep driving.
The gauge works great. I saw almost 50psi when revved to 1700 rpms. Won't see a real number until I drive it. Used a 24v green led bulb to match the others. Pleased with install. Now I have a way to monitor pressure if I increase fuel down the road.
I forgot a photo of what it looked like at the pump. I'll grab one next time I'm in the shop.
I used a 1/8"mpt to -4an 45 degree fitting that fit right in the fuel solenoid plug. Used 4an ptfe black braided stainless line and drilled a hole right above the 2 air line connections above the gas pedal.
Decided to put the needle valve right before the gauge. Reason being it's easier to adjust if I need to make changes to keep the gauge from fluctuating. I also used it to burp the air out of the line and made no mess in the cab.
It also lets me cut the fuel off if I have a leak. I'll bring the plug with me so if the line were to fail I can always plug it back up and keep driving.
The gauge works great. I saw almost 50psi when revved to 1700 rpms. Won't see a real number until I drive it. Used a 24v green led bulb to match the others. Pleased with install. Now I have a way to monitor pressure if I increase fuel down the road.
I forgot a photo of what it looked like at the pump. I'll grab one next time I'm in the shop.
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- Location
- Wenatchee, WA
How does a needle valve on the gauge affect the pressure that the pump puts out?
The needle valve is a micro valve. It's not like a standard ball valve and lets only a tiny bit through. There could be some changes but it's designed to be very accurate. It also increases efficiency and safety. The valve can suppport 1500psi.
It wont change the pumps pressure, the pump will push out the pressure it's set at.
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- 1,244
- 2,284
- 113
- Location
- Wenatchee, WA
I see, I see. I've read a few opinions on what max pressure a small cam can handle and they very between 200-230 psi. What pressure would be your max and have you come across any official number from Cummins?
I haven't called cummins directly. Alot on here say 200 to 210 is max. I haven't driven the truck since the pressure gauge installed yesterday due to the cold and crap on the roads. Im running a #27 fuel button. Pump rebuilt by premco. 10% over injectors arent installed yet. Even with the new injectors my fuel will be so conserative, I'll never be close. I bet I'll be at 150 to 160psi when fully in it pulling a hill, which is exactly for what I'm looking for. I want the safety and reliability.. l'll be pleased with 12-15psi of boost with the intercooler as well. And down the road if I decide I want to turn the fuel up, I'll have options.