My MEP-803a experience

[lonesouth]

affirmative, 15w40.

gauge read low.

so, did you know that these things will crank and run with low coolant? What I thought was the coolant line on the overflow bottle...that was just a stain. I was able to pour at least a half gallon into the radiator, and then more into the overflow bottle. When I got these, both were running and the GP rep stated that he changed fluids. I changed the oil when I got it, and "checked" the coolant, obviously not well enough. The temp gauge never read hot, always stayed below 180. I've had it running now for 30 and the temp is just under 200. Oil pressure is still just above 40psi.

So here is my theory on what happened. With the coolant low, the temp sender and over temp switch were not immersed in the coolant. The heat transmitted through the block was enough to make the temp gauge register something, but not enough to show hot, nor trip overtemp fault. As a result of running hot, suspect really hot, but not enough to seize, the oil thinned so much that there wasn't enough pressure. This, fortunately, tripped the low oil pressure fault before the engine seized.

 

[csheath]

You may be correct. I would change oil and filter again to be on the safe side.

I don't think it has any low level sensors. Just low oil pressure and high temperature protection. Mine was empty so I had to fill everything. The new stant cap I installed kept leaking a little but finally stopped. I think it was just finding level but seems like all the excess should have gone to the bottle. Either way I can feel coolant with my finger inside when I take the cap off now and it isn't leaking any more. Mine stays just under 180 no matter how long I run it at any load. I don't trust any of the gauges to be correct but I don't see any evidence they aren't either as my unit seems to run fine. Just did my second monthly run yesterday but I only ran it about an hour and a half. Left it running with 40 amps on it for at least and hour and figured I was just burning fuel at that point.

 

[lindsey97]

The correct engine oil is 10-30w with a zinc additive for your flat tappet camshaft.

To check your coolant, park generator on a level surface, with the engine cold. Remove cap and stick finger in radiator to verify coolant level. If you can't feel it, then it's low. I use a suction gun to fill my radiator. Or a turkey baster. Another way to fill the radiator is to get a short length of fuel hose and clamp it to a funnel.

 

[lonesouth]

planning to change the oil next time I have a chance. I'm certain there was enough heat to damage the oil. The dip stick had some wispy smoke coming off of it when I checked the level after it shut down. The smoke point on most oils in this range is around 400, but I can't imagine it got THAT high. Even still, changing the oil is cheap insurance. I'll go ahead and change all the filters too. Again, much cheaper than relying on them at this point.

reading through this thread, I picked up a case of Delo 400 15w-40 on sale at Costco, i'll stick with that

 

[Guyfang]

A bit of smoke may from time to time come out of the engine, when you remove the oil fill cap, after just stopping the engine.

There is no low level sensors. The oil pressure switch simply tells you if you have oil PRESSURE, not weather you have oil in the engine. Too many people depend on the oil pressure switch to tell them if there is enough oil. Sometime that doesn't work too well.

You're on the right track here. Change oil and filter. Catch the oil in a clean glass container. Drop a magnet into it and see if you get any "bits and pieces". If you want, do the same thing to the filter. If you find things, not good. But I don't think that going to be a problem.

This was why I just loved AOAP. The Army Oil Analysis Program. It saved so much oil and unnecessary maintenance. In your case, it would not help much, since you have to start with a baseline test, and go from there. The analysis would tell you if there was serious levels of metals in the oil. But not if its a long standing problem, or just started. The lab can tell you from where the metal comes from. Which bearing is bad. If rings are bad. Its a great tool. Most people would say the cost precludes it being used in small gen sets. In sets that run high hours, I beg to disagree.

Do the PMCS before you start. Do it when you stop.

 

[lindsey97]

Cut the oil filter open and observe is another trick.

I think any diesel rated oil will work, 15-40w, provided you don't run it in single digit temperatures.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
Like the manual says. It is going to be dependent on your normal ambient air temp.

Artic conditions?
0-100 degrees?
desert 60-120 degrees?

The standard oil which is called for is heavy duty diesel type 15W-40 which covers most conditions. Diesel engine and car gas engine are different types of oil. You do want a diesel specific oil.

Like I have said before. Most folks here will be changing oil on age. I know if I was without power for a long stretch, I would then be changing oil on hours. You will find that after you get your generator, your power outages will decrease. It seems you are ready for the worst, and the rain, snow, wind etc... the power might have a blink, but has not gone out like it use to around here.

 

[lonesouth]

got around to changing the oil. It was a dark brown, obviously burned. I didn't see any metal flakes, but I still need to filter it and run it by a magnet to see for sure. Anyway, when I was changing the oil, about 3 weeks ago, I accidentally got some of the old oil on the door of the unit. I noticed, over the next few weeks, that spot did not fade or wash off. So, I decided to go ahead and oil the whole side of it. Not sure what the long term effectiveness of this treatment will be, but in the short term, it really wakes up the CARC paint, gets rid of that chalky faded look. The stenciled lettering really pops out too. I just used some more of the old oil and rubbed it in with a shop towel, waited 10 minutes, hosed it off(not really very effective against oil), then wiped down with a dry towel.

in the first pic, you can see the spot in the middle where I accidentally got some oil on it. I did not oil the skid.







here, you can see the line between where I rubbed oil, and not.

 

[csheath]

NICE!

I guess I better go out and oil my desert sand unit.

 

[Firebrand]

There is a paint additive called Penetrol that has the same effect of freshening paint colors and density. Also perks up chalky plastic parts. Found this from a Boston Whaler enthusiast forum. Works great!

 

[Guyfang]

The purpose of CARC paint is to absorb R.F. Energie. Better said radar waves. When RF energies is absorbed, and not reflected, the mean and nasty person in a ground attack aircraft just might not see you, and maybe not drop a 500 pound bomb on your patooty. Rubbing any POL product on CARC, destroys that absorbing effect.

 

[lonesouth]

I'll wash it off when WWIII breaks loose.

Going to keep an eye on this for the next month. If it still looks good, I'll do the rest of the unit.

 

[Another Ahab]

I'll wash it off when WWIII breaks loose.

When it breaks loose, can you post a notice about that here?

It'd likely be useful to know.

 

[jagrdawger]

I had the battalion Command Sergeant Major ask me why my howitzers looked kind of drab and Bravo Batteries howitzers and trucks had deep rich colors and a little sheen to them. I simply pointed him to the page in the TM that stated oil and similar products should not be spread on the paint to enhance the appearance and that doing so made them out of spec. That meant they needed to be repainted - again. They had been painted only a month or two before. I made sure he noticed the transmission fluid drips all over under the guns as well. This was Fort Drum where the environmental nazis were trying to catch up to Kalifornia. Waved to the B Battery commander as I was leaving for the day as his guys were marching to the motor pool to get floor dry and prep the guns for paint again. CARC paint has a purpose that is not compatible with petroleum. I encouraged the CSM to take full credit for having the knowledge of the TM. I never got questioned on the appearance of my guns or trucks again.

 

[Guyfang]

In 1986, I had a similar experience. We had a Battalion S3, a Major (who need not be named here) that was very "self centered". Rules were for other folks, and he decided who had to follow them. The CSM was also of that mind. Both of them had their Vehicles rubbed down with cherry juice. Because it "looked so much more professional". I was the Shop Officer of the 549th Maintenance Company at the time. I went over and had a talk with the Battalion XO, and explained to him that the brand new trucks, with the brand new paint jobs, needed to be repainted, IAW Department of the Army directives. The XO was a nice guy, and passed on the information.

Of course nothing happened. A few weeks later the S3's truck came to our shop, for some kind of repair, or maybe a radio installation/MWO. My inspectors rejected the truck, due to the unauthorized "beautification" of the CARC paint. I never saw or knew, it was going to be rejected. But sure heard about it later in the day!! Of course, my commander was called over into the S3's office, for a butt chewing. He "needed to inform his out of control Warrant Officer, that Majors out rank him and that his truck would be repaired".

My commander was a stand up guy. Still is, for that matter. I had given him a copy of the regulation covering the painting of Army equipment. He laid that down on the S3's desk, and asked for a written exemption to the Army policy, with the S3's signature. That was the end of whole thing. As I had had other "situations" (we never had problems, only situations) with the good Major and CSM, I didnt figure that they could dislike me any more than they did now. I was wrong, but that came later. I had to work order the trucks to Mannheim. The Caterpillar repair facility there, was the only place within 200 klicks that could spray paint CARC on equipment. And naturally, it cost mega bucks to get it done. Our tax dollars at work.

 

[Firebrand]

It always costs more to do it right the second time around.

 

[Another Ahab]

It always costs more to do it right the second time around.

And then "time is money", too.

So the bill just keeps on piling up.

 

[lonesouth]

Ran the house on the generator for two hours today, normal loads(tv, amplifiers, AC, etc.) Didn't try to load it with everything, just that which we are likely to do in a power outage. Temp was much better, oil pressure stayed at 40#, only a slight puff of smoke when the well kicked on.

Also, my "new finish" seems to be holding up well. Going to leave the second one and trailer as they are, let the buyer decide if they want to oil, paint, or leave it as is.

 

[csheath]

Do you have the other one sorted and ready to sell?

 

[lonesouth]

Do you have the other one sorted and ready to sell?

not yet. Need to pull it out, mount it to the trailer, plumb in the aux tank, change fluids, upgrade lights to 12v, and add a breakbox/outlets.