My MEP-803a experience

[csheath]

I'll have to get with you if I ever decide to rivnut my set. I have a small bag of aluminum 10-32 rivnuts but not enough to do the set and no tool.

I have found that a dab of antisieze compound will keep the corrosion at bay. Messy but worth it in the long run.

 

[lonesouth]

I'll have to get with you if I ever decide to rivnut my set. I have a small bag of aluminum 10-32 rivnuts but not enough to do the set and no tool.

I have found that a dab of antisieze compound will keep the corrosion at bay. Messy but worth it in the long run.

Just let me know when you want to stop by. I’ve got around 50 rivnuts left, you are welcome to use them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[lonesouth]

Picking up a DRASH 23kw trailer only. I can't find anything on the web regarding the trailer, no specs, no TM, nothing. I've gathered from bits and pieces that the wheels and tires are common with the HMMWV and the hydraulic brakes are common to the 1101/1102 trailers. Anyone have any more info on just the trailer? The part number is 20RFH33DWLP.

 

[Daybreak]

Picking up a DRASH 23kw trailer only. I can't find anything on the web regarding the trailer, no specs, no TM, nothing. I've gathered from bits and pieces that the wheels and tires are common with the HMMWV and the hydraulic brakes are common to the 1101/1102 trailers. Anyone have any more info on just the trailer? The part number is 20RFH33DWLP.

Howdy,

Well, you can try contacting 2 manufacturers of the trailers. It's either Silver Eagle or Schutt.
Silver Eagle website
Schutt Industries

 

[Guyfang]

The trailer IS a HMMWV trailer. That's why the tires are the same as the truck. The trailer is covered in TM 9-2330-392-14&P AND the TM covering the PU, (Power Unit) set.

The Part number 20RFH§§DWLP is NOT in the supply system, nor in the TM9-2330-392-14&P. It might be in the TM covering the PU, but I do not know what that is. Should be on the data plate.

 

[Zed254]

Round running lights look like Schutt. Appears to be a generator version of this one: http://www.schuttindustries.com/Military/Military-Trailers/LIGHT-TACTICAL/LTT-FLATDECK-EXTENDED

 

[Poccur]

Picking up a DRASH 23kw trailer only. I can't find anything on the web regarding the trailer, no specs, no TM, nothing. I've gathered from bits and pieces that the wheels and tires are common with the HMMWV and the hydraulic brakes are common to the 1101/1102 trailers. Anyone have any more info on just the trailer? The part number is 20RFH33DWLP.

DRASH is a brand owned by HDT and that is not an HDT trailer...

As said by others, likely Schutt or Silver Eagle...

 

[lonesouth]

I got some work done on my gen/trailer yesterday.

Swapped the military tires for the 35”s on dodge 2500 wheels.

Put the generator and tank in place, to be bolted down later.

And got it all cleaned up.

Still runs after being neglected sitting directly on the dirt for over a year. Cleaned up fairly well too.

 

[csheath]

I want your Bronco!

 

[lonesouth]

Need help identifying these rivets and where to get more.

 

[lonesouth]

After further searching, these appear to be Huckbolts. I'm not likely to buy the tool needed to install Huckbolts. What is an acceptable method for attaching more aluminum tubing? Stainless or zinc plated rivnuts? Heavy structural blind rivets? I already have a rivnut tool with several mandrels.

I ask because I need to add additional supports in order to bolt the generator and fuel tank down. They don't currently align to existing pads or braces.

 

[Mullaney]

After further searching, these appear to be Huckbolts. I'm not likely to buy the tool needed to install Huckbolts. What is an acceptable method for attaching more aluminum tubing? Stainless or zinc plated rivnuts? Heavy structural blind rivets? I already have a rivnut tool with several mandrels.

I ask because I need to add additional supports in order to bolt the generator and fuel tank down. They don't currently align to existing pads or braces.

.
Well thanks.
I discovered those same bolts on the M-107x and M-108x frames. I couldn't find the name of the "Huckbolts" to save my life...

I wonder if you could use some Grade 8 or possibly Grade 12 bolts - and then use steel locking nuts.
You want to stay away from the "elastic stop" nuts. They fail - especially with a lot of vibratiion.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I would just use good Grade 8 hardware with heavy nuts and thick split washers.

 

[Mullaney]

I would just use good Grade 8 hardware with heavy nuts and thick split washers.

.
I worked for an engineer that was absolutely "bent" on not using split (lock) washers. We built whatever he dreamed up, so "no split washers" were used on hos projects. I would imagine that properly torqued fasteners will most likely work even with split washers. However (and his arguement) they are "springy" and do have a tendency to fall out. Leaving a loose bolt or nut...

It is worth a discussion but it would be the Chevrolet vs Ford debate.
A lot of talk would happen and most folks are staying in their "camp".

 

[Light in the Dark]

And for those in that camp, I would recommend a high quality Bellville disc spring washer in its place. Full retained, able to take impact loads.

 

[lonesouth]

I'm going to go with zinc plated steel rivnuts and grade 8 fasteners. If it becomes a problems years down the road, I'll fix it then. Huck bolts would really be the best option, but that would run me at least $1,000 just to get the gun. I do like the idea of the lug studs, and ATV studs would be perfect for that, however, I don't see it being that much better than a rivnut for this application and the rivnuts are a lot easier and cheaper to install.

 

[Light in the Dark]

And its already been said... but nice bronco!

 

[lonesouth]

I never did anything with the trailer. All that work and I went a different route. It is for sale, though I'm not posting it anywhere.

We lost power two weeks ago when that bad series of storms rolled through. Unfortunately, I was out of town and the MEP fuel pump was out, so it wouldn't have helped anyway. I finally got the replacement in and found that it was not picking up any fuel from the tank. I blew compressed air back into the tank and was able to hear bubbles. Hooked it back up and got nothing out of the pump. I reached in and found the pickup and was able to feel the bubbles, but they were very small and easy to stop. The compressor was putting out 90psi so it should have really been blowing out. There was some very sticky sludge on the bottom of the tank and I'm speculating that the pickup tube is choked down to nearly closed.

Is there a way to clean out the pickup tube without removing it?

 

[Light in the Dark]

If compressed air isn't enough, with how thick tank sludge can be taking it out is really the best option. You can disconnect the fuel line from it to the pump and inspect that first, before having to take the pickup out (in case the blockage is there).

 

[lonesouth]

It finally occurred to me tonight to stick the pump inlet into a cup of diesel and try to start the generator. Good news is that if fired right off. So that confirms a clogged fuel pickup, but at least I know the rest of it is OK and I could bypass the tank in a pinch if needed. I did also buy a back-up back-up generator on prime day, 14kw Duromax, hopefully that will be enough to oomph to start my 5-ton AC. If not, a soft start will be going into the AC.