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My mud truck build bad 395/85/20 tires?

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Nah, I ran that same tire on the stock wheels thousands of miles. It was either a pinched tube that went flat or the tire sat flat for a period of time.
 

welldigger

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Benton LA
Nah, I ran that same tire on the stock wheels thousands of miles. It was either a pinched tube that went flat or the tire sat flat for a period of time.
By the looks of that tire my guess is it sat flat for a long time. This weakens the sidewall belting.
 

Watsonpreston

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I just hope this is a freak thing
i have put a lot of miles on my old NDT that looked like trash cracking all over bald flat spots from locking up the brakes previous owner and almost never had any trouble out of them!
 

welldigger

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I just hope this is a freak thing
i have put a lot of miles on my old NDT that looked like trash cracking all over bald flat spots from locking up the brakes previous owner and almost never had any trouble out of them!
The ndcc's are biased ply tires. The 395's are radials. Bias tires aren't hurt sitting flat nearly as much as radial tires.
 

Special T

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Wetside/ WA
Its definitely a possibility that it sat low on the rim weakening the cords. From some of the Pics it looks like the tire started to seperate before it blew. Did the front end start to shake and shudder just before it blew? How hot was it? How long had you been driving it?

Could just be a fluke but it shows that you should alwasy carry a spare on a wheel that way its not as expensive when you have trouble.
 

VPed

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I started out with 395s on stock wheels but quickly grew tired of the constant flats. If you off-road, you usually air down and back up constantly. Trash will get between the flap and tire, entering where the stem pokes thru. It will eventually migrate past the flap to between the tire and tube. This will then wear a hole in the tube. Virtually every one of my flats was a pinhole directly in line with the stem slot in the wheel, on the side where the flap edge is.

I went with MRAP wheels and Peashooter's adapters and have been thrilled (and flat-free) since. I thought it was too much of an investment until I tried it. Now I wish I had done it that way on day one. I just spent most of Saturday in the sand with 25 psi in the front and 10 psi in the rears without any issues despite probably 50 miles of pretty good trailing.
 

Watsonpreston

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after the holidays i will be getting some mrap wheels and adapters. This weekend i got the fuel pump fixed never has worked and the starter working!! After reading post on common fixes. The pump just needed a new fuse one 10 amp fuse works perfect now. Last time mudding the truck starter was not working right might take one push or 20 pushs of the button to get a start. When i went to get tires i pushed the button a hundred times still no start. When i pulled the starter it had so much dirt in the nose piece it was inpossible for the starter to engage far enough to power the starter. After cleaning about 2 cups of mud out of the starter and lots of wd40 got the bendix working good every time. Is it bad to install the plug in the bellhousing and leave it in?
 

jbayer

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I would think the only down fall would be:
1.) Rear seal starts leaking, fills up bellhousing/clutch w/motor oil.
2.) Trans input seal starts leaking, fills up bellhousing/clutch w/gear oil.
3.) Freeze plug goes, fills up bellhousing/clutch w/ anti-freeze.
You would not know if any were leaking until enough filled up to find a way out.
It would probaly be best to leave it out, install when needed.
Disclaimer: This is just my opinion.
 

welldigger

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Benton LA
after the holidays i will be getting some mrap wheels and adapters. This weekend i got the fuel pump fixed never has worked and the starter working!! After reading post on common fixes. The pump just needed a new fuse one 10 amp fuse works perfect now. Last time mudding the truck starter was not working right might take one push or 20 pushs of the button to get a start. When i went to get tires i pushed the button a hundred times still no start. When i pulled the starter it had so much dirt in the nose piece it was inpossible for the starter to engage far enough to power the starter. After cleaning about 2 cups of mud out of the starter and lots of wd40 got the bendix working good every time. Is it bad to install the plug in the bellhousing and leave it in?
As annoying as it may be your best bet is to remember to install the plug before mudding and remove it when your done. Though with your use of the truck I'd say leaving the bellhousing plug in is way better than forgetting to put it in.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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I wouldn't worry about it. I have never put the plug in when off roading and I have the trans inspection plate off the trans. No issues in years.
 

Watsonpreston

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Location
Dallas, TX
Got all my tires fixed and own a spare now!
got 3 hubs flipped so far using one of my rear inside lug nut the square one to drive the studs out is working very easy. the only snag I hit one of the lug nuts square ends got twisted off trying to get the tire off! I Have never welded using the 2 battery method but got jumper cables out and welded one of my old lug nuts on looks very ugly it was way to hot for the little rods I had laying around it was turning them cherry hot in secs of welding but it worked! I re packed the bearings on one side with normal wheel bearing High temp and the other with marine blue high temp wheel bearing grease will be checking the temps and see how they compare when I pull it back apart.


when I first got my truck when I locked my front axle it made what sounded like a hard strong click and when unlocking it sounded like spraying compressed air and the red light always turned on. Now I get zero sound when I flip the switch and almost no sound when unlocking it and the red light does not turn on! The 6x6 still works but some times it feels like the front end stops pulling I will stop and have some one look at both tires to check and it starts pulling again! What should I check is there any weak spots that like to give up over time?
 

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welldigger

Active member
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Benton LA
Why did you put marine grease on one bearing and standard bearing grease on the other? Not all greases are compatible with each other.
 

Watsonpreston

Member
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Location
Dallas, TX
One side as in driver side hubs have marine and passenger side hubs have red high temp. When I had a rockwells under a jeep it did not have wheel brakes and never seen the highway. I used marine even when water got in them it did not bother them as much but it was a low mile slow speed jeep.
 

welldigger

Active member
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Location
Benton LA
O ok. Sorry I read that wrong. I don't know if marine grease is necessarily better but since these trucks have drum brakes I don't think it will be an issue.
 

Hainebd

New member
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Location
Mays Landing, NJ
To bad. I had 6 MRAP Rims in Dallas 6 months ago I would have given to you. I hauled back to NJ with the rest of my junk. I like the 395. Pea shooters adapter work well. You will need new lug nuts for rear. You should change the rears lug nuts to fronts now that you are singed out. Question, with hubs flipped, can you run duels again?
 

Watsonpreston

Member
63
41
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Location
Dallas, TX
Yes with hubs in or out you can run duals it will make the truck crazy wide is the only neg of running duals and hubs flipped out.
Yes I will be buying a set of lug nuts for the rear before to long
http://youtu.be/1WPSYhln-zY you can see I have one tire flipped out in the video how wide the truck would be with rear tires fliped out and hubs out.
 

Watsonpreston

Member
63
41
18
Location
Dallas, TX
Update my steering gear box exploded last month see pics I have already replaced it had to jack up the front of the motor to replace it undid the two front motor mount bolts and jacked it up 6'' or so. The steering works good as new if your strong enough!

This weekend took it out to a mud bog rednecks with paycheck was really giving it **** when something let go. I had just adjusted the clutch it was pulling very hard like in a good way. When All of sudden no gears at all. You can take the shifter and put in all the gears nothing at all. I drained the fluid no visible Metal or water looked very dirty but nothing crazy. I have pulled the driver side cover on the trans ever thing looked good there (you can only see one gear). Pulled the clutch inspection plate it looked fine. The only thing I can find wrong is there is a lot of play In all directions in the output of the transmission and there was a little smoke coming out of the shifter boot right after it stoped working. Any ideas what snapped has any one snaped the output shaft in the tranny?
 

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spicergear

New member
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Location
Millerstown, PA
A friend of mine went to recover a GL purchased truck mid winter that had frozen into the ground...and probably e-brake too though he wouldn't admit to it. Got truck fired, tried to move it- nothing. Put into low range, tried...still nothing. Revved it, tried again...TRIED HARDER. He heard a bad noise, then really nothing. Snapped the output shaft just ahead of the yoke in the transmission. Everything looked fine since the snapped shaft was internal. I have that transmission. Funny thing- ...this trans was a 3052 behind the multifuel. Someone dropped the ball there. Oh, and I believe the 3052's have a slightly lower geared first gear so more leverage to snap the shaft.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
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Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
Pull the top cover and have a look. That's the only way to tell. Whatever it is should be obvious.

You know this kind of stuff is just going to keep happening until you either get fed up and sell it, or you quit thrashing it so hard, right?
 
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