SmartDrug
Well-known member
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- Saint Charles, IL
Heck yeah, man! That’s awesome! Great find!
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
The guy mentioned he had 3 Avengers... as it turns out he has another set of data plates and they are now listed on ebay. He probably realized someone might be looking for them after I said I bought it just for the data plate. I am really lucky he threw in the other one as well. I am also lucky that the set I ended up with are in much better condition than the ones listed now. That said I would have been just as happy either way as having them beats not having them..
Pretty dang amazing that you found those dataplates...
AND that the seller was willing to help with the second plate!
I am just about at the point of installing the TPS on my 4L80 conversion. I wanted to ask about relocating the Fan Cutoff Switch. Might you have any pictures on where / how you relocated the Fan Cutoff Switch?I was asked about the TPS sensor I used in my 4L80 conversion so I took a couple pictures.
I used a Standard TH160 TPS sensor that is a very common GM TPS sensor. For reference of the location, the first picture shows where the TPS sensor gets located. The connector just above the arrow is the TPS sensor connector and wiring that I ran into the cab to the Quick4 TCU.
View attachment 879776
You must first remove the Fan Cutoff switch and cam from the shaft.
fan cutoff switch moved to the throttle bracket as done on the turbo trucks or moved to the rear left head as done on A2 trucksI am just about at the point of installing the TPS on my 4L80 conversion. I wanted to ask about relocating the Fan Cutoff Switch. Might you have any pictures on where / how you relocated the Fan Cutoff Switch?
The truck ran great all year. No leaks, no issues and starts right up. We have some snow coming (not much) and that signals to me it's time to put the truck in the garage for the winter. Not that it can't take the winter but so I can keep working on it and moving the project forward.
My garage is less than 1 mile from my house and first thing I notice is the volt meter higher than normal. It has never been anywhere except on the white line in the green area (Red Arrow). Today it's running in the Red area!! I parked the truck for a few minutes and when I came back, antifreeze under the truck!! Leaking like a Siv.
I drove the last mile of the year and all hell breaks loose! (ok not that bad but....WTF)
Yes and no.... gauges aren't always accurate but they mostly preform consistently. Also analog gauges show stuff digital gauges don't. A digital gauge samples and displays a mean average over time. A slight variation is often suppressed in a digital gauge. My digital VOM (Fluke) meter does this as well as all other digital meters. The dash gauge is analog and reacts no matter what is thrown at it. My analog gauge on the dash has been rock solid for 4 years of driving my truck. It never moved from the nominal line on the gauge. Now with a new regulator it clearly reacts different as shown in the video. It shows what you wouldn't see on the DVOM. For this reason, one of the best meters you can use is a Simpson Model 260. In this case, it isn't about the number on the meter as much as how the meter is reacting and showing what the regulator is doing. The dash gauge does this perfectly.Don't trust the gauges.
Using a multimeter, what voltage are the batteries reading while all of this is happening?
all true, but I'm more concerned about what the actual voltage is at the batteries with the gauge sitting right at the top of the green. If it's 29V or below, then the little spikes up above that shouldn't be of particular issue. If it's above that, depending on your battery type, you might need to check and add distilled water more often (if flooded lead acid and non maintenance free type) or much higher than that would tell you that the regulator is not acting correctly before you fry your batteries.Yes and no.... gauges aren't always accurate but they mostly preform consistently. Also analog gauges show stuff digital gauges don't. A digital gauge samples and displays a mean average over time. A slight variation is often suppressed in a digital gauge. My digital VOM (Fluke) meter does this as well as all other digital meters. The dash gauge is analog and reacts no matter what is thrown at it. My analog gauge on the dash has been rock solid for 4 years of driving my truck. It never moved from the nominal line on the gauge. Now with a new regulator it clearly reacts different as shown in the video. It shows what you wouldn't see on the DVOM. For this reason, one of the best meters you can use is a Simpson Model 260. In this case, it isn't about the number on the meter as much as how the meter is reacting and showing what the regulator is doing. The dash gauge does this perfectly.
To your point of the batteries, the batteries act as a capacitor in a way since they store energy. They store so much energy that spikes are smoothed out. the analog meter will show those spikes and DVOM wont. The batteries read correct voltage with a DVOM but that doesn't negate what the regulator is actually doing.
First, thanks for the input. I appreciate all comments, suggestions, different points of view, etc.all true, but I'm more concerned about what the actual voltage is at the batteries with the gauge sitting right at the top of the green. If it's 29V or below, then the little spikes up above that shouldn't be of particular issue. If it's above that, depending on your battery type, you might need to check and add distilled water more often (if flooded lead acid and non maintenance free type) or much higher than that would tell you that the regulator is not acting correctly before you fry your batteries.
Also to comment, just because the gauge has behaved the exact same way for 4 years doesn't mean it's reading exactly where it is supposed to, and the old regulator might have been producing lower voltage.
But yes, I definitely agree if the gauge is acting differently than normal something is up and needs verified.