my new engine

[jdeoliveira74]

looks pretty clean... And it spins with a breaker bar feels smooth no grinding.

 

[jdeoliveira74]

from what I have found it looks to be a 6.5l but not sure is there a place I can plug in engine block stamp markings to determine ?

 

[jdeoliveira74]

That is a GM date code. If there is a letter then 3 numbers, the letter is the month (skip I), next 2 are the day and the 3rd is the last number of the year. AMGeneral changed the date code on the blocks they cast. It will be 2 numbers then a space, then two more numbers followed by a letter. For example my block code is 10 04 J (Month, Day, Year). The years start with H for 2001, skip I then J for 2002, K for 03 and so on. The first "enhanced GM blocks" were supposedly cast starting on C-159. <--- Does this mean I got a navi star engine??? looking at my block its 12555506 and the other numbers are 12 12 H

 

[ken]

Doesen't it say on the block right by the water pump on the passenger side? It should be cast 6.2 or 6.5 in 3/4 tall letters.

 

[jdeoliveira74]

not that I saw

 

[Warthog]

It is a AMGeneral GEP (General Engine Products) 6.5L engine. Build date of Dec 12 2001. The casting number is 506 whick is one of the better blocks.

You may want to do a compression check as the 6.5L weren't pulled without a reason.

I have one just like it with a blown head gasket.

Was there a green repair tag on the engine?

 

[jdeoliveira74]

No green tag... the paperwork that came with the engine was blank too..It seems like it may have been a rebuild since the oil pan gasket and valve covers gaskets seem to be rtv as well as the water pump which looks brand new. Will check compression.. thanks

 

[Stonepicker1]

The oil pan from a 6.2L will not fit the new GEP 6.5L.

The oil pan on this 6.5L should fit. See my rebuild thread.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/6...florida-rebuild.html?highlight=dually+florida

 

[jdeoliveira74]

The oil pan from a 6.2L will not fit the new GEP 6.5L.

The oil pan on this 6.5L should fit. See my rebuild thread.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/6...florida-rebuild.html?highlight=dually+florida

Nice build I was reading your cucvII build too good stuff. Thanks for the insite may be picking your brain as I go! If you don't mind

 

[cedargrove]

That is the sought after GEP block. You have an excellent base to work with but like he said...It wasn't pulled for no reason. There is an issue somewhere. Now you have to figure out what it is.

I got one of these a few months ago. Got it home and could turn it with a breaker bar. Had oil pressure when I turned the pump with a drill. Fired off super easy without glows in the crate. Compression on 1 cylinder was off. Tore it down and found a couple of spun rod bearings. Crank journal fuxored. Bought a new crank, had the cylinders and main line honed, installed new cam bearings. It's on the stand waiting for me to re-assemble.

What did you give for it?

 

[jdeoliveira74]

that is the sought after gep block. You have an excellent base to work with but like he said...it wasn't pulled for no reason. There is an issue somewhere. Now you have to figure out what it is.

I got one of these a few months ago. Got it home and could turn it with a breaker bar. Had oil pressure when i turned the pump with a drill. Fired off super easy without glows in the crate. Compression on 1 cylinder was off. Tore it down and found a couple of spun rod bearings. Crank journal fuxored. Bought a new crank, had the cylinders and main line honed, installed new cam bearings. It's on the stand waiting for me to re-assemble.

What did you give for it?

$250

 

[11Echo]

This motor looks cleaner than yours and was junk.
When the pan was pulled it had pieces of #7 piston laying in it. There was a window into #7 water jacket also.
It's not a good idea to install any used motor without at least pulling the pan for a look inside. If it is fine, it just cost a pan gasket.

 

[jdeoliveira74]

well the plan is to pull the pan and the valve covers first to see what is going on and then going from there. keeping fingers crossed

 

[cedargrove]

$250

I approve!

As long as there isn't a hole in the block, you are good. I was happy with mine at 395 (468 after taxes and GL got their cut). Even with a hole in the block, you can get twice your money back if the heads are in good shape.

 

[jdeoliveira74]

no holes block looks good!

 

[man2112]

Nice looking engine. Do these have any parts in common with civy chevy engines?

 

[cedargrove]

Nice looking engine. Do these have any parts in common with civy chevy engines?

The block is the same. The heads have N/A precups. Piston squirts are disabled in all but 7 and 8. I have a N/A 6.2 in my 84 civi C10. I'm using my GEP block and heads, and transferring everything else from my 6.2. I'll use the ip from the military engine after swapping the 24v shut-off.

I'm not a MV guy. I'm a GM diesel guy. In the GM diesel community, these GEP blocks are highly sought after. It's basically impossible for us to buy a new bare GEP block.

 

[cedargrove]

no holes block looks good!

Not so fast professor. Could be a hole from the cylinder to the water jacket as mentioned above. Put it on a stand and dig in. Don't forget to bring the camera.

 

[jdeoliveira74]

Not so fast professor. Could be a hole from the cylinder to the water jacket as mentioned above. Put it on a stand and dig in. Don't forget to bring the camera.

well hopefully nothing on the inside outside of block looks good.
I will Photo document the entire motor break down

 

[jdeoliveira74]

I am super excited to that I got this engine... May tear into it this week if I have time. But most likely not till after christmas. I did notice some 2x on the block one on either side near the third injector... Also alot of blue marks all over the block