My New HMMWV

[Crapgame]

You can patch that roof with the correct 2 part cement (adhesive and accellerator) plus some loose sheet of the same material. There are different types of cement for PVC and Hypalon fabric (from working on Zodiacs), I believe the US issue ragtops are a PVC base. There is a single component cement commonly used for emergency repairs but the 2 part cement lasts the longest. This shop in CA has the GI vinyl in green and tan, by the yard $23.15, then buy a small wallpaper roller (1" width x 1" diameter) for pressing out the air bubbles. https://www.ahh.biz/vinyl/vinyl_military_tent_with_ir_blocking.php

Auto Car Audio Sound Deadening Application Rolling Wheel Roller, Heat Abatement Mat Wallpaper PU Deadener Application Seam Roller - - Amazon.com

Auto Car Audio Sound Deadening Application Rolling Wheel Roller, Heat Abatement Mat Wallpaper PU Deadener Application Seam Roller - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-US-Mil...224473?hash=item2cd42c2759:g:77wAAOSwuWha9vAZ

This GI Soft Top Repair Kit on ebay is expired, I don't know if I would trust the cement, and it would cure faster or slower from old chemicals. There is a card shown in that kit that shows you how much bigger than the rips you should make the patch and to round the patch corners to prevent it catching.

AquaSeal is a single component adhesive that has good reputation, the single components may work if you are planning to replace the top in a year or two anyway.

Surface to be patched needs to be cleaned and lightly scuffed, like patching your old bicycle tubes.

 

[TOBASH]

There's a few things I have done with other materials.

You can take old denim jeans or denim tent material or canvas and attach with an awl or sewing machine underneath.

You can use old canvas or denim and RTV to attach it to the underside of the top BUT you need to use something to compress the two fabrics together.

Anyways, this is the kind of stuff I did on old LandCruisers and convertible tops made of more expensive cloth.

 

[osteo16]

Hey All,

I just got back from picking up my Hmmwv, being on a highway for 6 hours is not the ideal use of it. Haha.

Here are some pics:

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The top is in rough shape, anything I can do to patch it until I get a new top?

Also,is there any rust converter that works better than others? Not too rusty, I’d just like to clean it up some.

I don’t see any retrofit tags but it does have the 6.5. It wasn’t the smoothest ride but I did maintain 65-70 except when the fan kicked on.

TARP..... drive when NOT raining...

 

[Ajax MD]

HMMWV's don't go fast, but they do go anywhere. For some reason, people insist that they do 80mph.
If we drive ours on the highway, we do 50-55 in the right lane and people can just suck it up and go around. We take paralleling secondary roads with lower speed limits wherever possible.

Don't waste a cent patching that top. Tarp it and save every penny for a new top. First, check the classifieds on this forum for a decent, used top. If that fails, there are 3 different HMMWV Facebook pages where people who don't post on this forum sell stuff. If THAT fails, then contact Breton Industries for a new top.

 

[01GRANDER]

HMMWV's don't go fast, but they do go anywhere. For some reason, people insist that they do 80mph.
If we drive ours on the highway, we do 50-55 in the right lane and people can just suck it up and go around. We take paralleling secondary roads with lower speed limits wherever possible.

Don't waste a cent patching that top. Tarp it and save every penny for a new top. First, check the classifieds on this forum for a decent, used top. If that fails, there are 3 different HMMWV Facebook pages where people who don't post on this forum sell stuff. If THAT fails, then contact Breton Industries for a new top.

Yeah, I was looking at Breton. I’d love a hardtop but they are so darn expensive. Makes me want to learn how to weld aluminum and make one myself. I’m close to Columbus Ga so I’m keeping my eye open on FB and CL.

 

[Shurts]

I have a 6.5L with 3-speed and regularly do 60+ mph. By regular, I mean 300-500 miles in a week, every 6-8 weeks (it's my vacation vehicle at the cabin). When I first bought it, I did 500 miles straight well over 55mph. I've put over 3500 miles on it since I bought it - doesn't seem to be an issue.

 

[Coug]

I have a 6.5L with 3-speed and regularly do 60+ mph. By regular, I mean 300-500 miles in a week, every 6-8 weeks (it's my vacation vehicle at the cabin). When I first bought it, I did 500 miles straight well over 55mph. I've put over 3500 miles on it since I bought it - doesn't seem to be an issue.

Do you know if you have the GM block or the GEP block?
The GEP block is different metalurgy, so it can withstand the heat better than the GM blocks could, for either the 6.2 or 6.5.

 

[Keesyman]

If it is the GM 6.5 then everything I have read says watch for heat soak and not running in the high RPM range. But with the GEP 6.5L NA or the Optimizer the blocks were redesigned (increased cylinder wall thickness/Oil Port diameter increase) to mitigate the exact issue Coug was talking about. Other than retro tags and serial numbers on the blocks the GEP engines all have an emission exemption sticker on the driver side valve cover that says "General Engine Products, LLC" .

Mine has a date stamp of 2006 6.5L GEP and 3L80 transmission/Transfer case rebuild tag of 06/06 Ft. Bragg. I run 65 ish pretty regular on the 4 lanes, Speedo on truck goes past 60 about half the distance further than from 50-60 and on my phone it's within 1 MPH or so. So probably shouldn't be running this fast then? Never seems to have any cooling issue, fan kicks on and cycles, never gets much above 215-220. My maiden voyage home was a 310 mile drive journey, mostly 55-60, some a little faster, but ran flawless. Kidney's and back... well took it rough.

 

[01GRANDER]

Do you know if you have the GM block or the GEP block?
The GEP block is different metalurgy, so it can withstand the heat better than the GM blocks could, for either the 6.2 or 6.5.

How do you tell the gm and gep blocks? I have the casting marks so I definitely have the 6.5.

 

[Shurts]

No tell tale markings on my 6.5L to tell who made it, unfortunately.

If it is the GM 6.5 then everything I have read says watch for heat soak and not running in the high RPM range. But with the GEP 6.5L NA or the Optimizer the blocks were redesigned (increased cylinder wall thickness/Oil Port diameter increase) to mitigate the exact issue Coug was talking about. Other than retro tags and serial numbers on the blocks the GEP engines all have an emission exemption sticker on the driver side valve cover that says "General Engine Products, LLC" .

Mine has a date stamp of 2006 6.5L GEP and 3L80 transmission/Transfer case rebuild tag of 06/06 Ft. Bragg. I run 65 ish pretty regular on the 4 lanes, Speedo on truck goes past 60 about half the distance further than from 50-60 and on my phone it's within 1 MPH or so. So probably shouldn't be running this fast then? Never seems to have any cooling issue, fan kicks on and cycles, never gets much above 215-220. My maiden voyage home was a 310 mile drive journey, mostly 55-60, some a little faster, but ran flawless. Kidney's and back... well took it rough.

No markings on my 6.5L to tell whether its the GM or GEP. I know that Maine Military Authority (MMA) overhauled it in 2005, which is why I have a 6.5 to begin with On my ‘86 998. My experience is similar to yours - 65 ish based on the speedo being half past the 60 and based on my phone tests while the fan cycles every now and then (5? 10? mins between cycles) always staying between 215-220 degrees. Kidneys and back were good though...the thing rides real smooth

 

[Keesyman]

Well GM quit making the 6.5L in 1999, Sold the blueprints and engine building line to AM General that started GEP, in Franklin, OH.. They made a whole engine plant to start casting and creating the 6500 Optimizer engine with the improved metallurgy and improved castings. So I would say since it was an MMA refresh in 2005. it should be the GEP engine. Remove the dog house cover and look at the back of the block for the date code. if it's after 1999, then its GEP. Only marking on mine is that sticker on the valve cover "Saying GEP" Here is a picture of mine.

 

[Coug]

How do you tell the gm and gep blocks? I have the casting marks so I definitely have the 6.5.

The way to check is the date code on the back of the block. Pull the doghouse off and look at the block below the passenger side head. If it's after 99 then it's a GEP block.
Mine didn't have the GEP decal and stuff on the valve cover, only know it's GEP from the date (but mine has the 4 speed so it's a moot point)

 

[01GRANDER]

The way to check is the date code on the back of the plock. Pull the doghouse off and look at the block below the passenger side head. If it's after 99 then it's a GEP block.
Mine didn't have the GEP decal and stuff on the valve cover, only know it's GEP from the date (but mine has the 4 speed so it's a moot point)

I apparently am blind, I have a gep. I wonder how old it is, my engine is a little rusty and runs a little tougher than id like, I wonder if it’s an older one, odd thing is that there is no refresh tag on mine.

 

[Shurts]

Thanks, all. No sticker on mine, but the date code is "01 03 J" so I am assuming its a GEP 6.5L.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Thanks, all. No sticker on mine, but the date code is "01 03 J" so I am assuming its a GEP 6.5L.

01/03/2002

 

[01GRANDER]

01/03/2002

I don’t want to keep posting new threads but is there any threads where people have posted pictures of their hmmwv’s and maybe labeled the paint color they used? I am trying to find pictures so I can figure out what color I’d like to paint mine.

I am trying to decide on grey, blue or a tan/khaki. Tons of pictures of khaki/desert colors.

 

[TOBASH]

Try the paint thread in the restoration forum.

Then look up Behr paint jobs and you will find all the paint codes for Home Depot to make the paint for you.

 

[01GRANDER]

Try the paint thread in the restoration forum.

Then look up Behr paint jobs and you will find all the paint codes for Home Depot to make the paint for you.

I will look through it more, there are some photos and sometimes a description but not paint numbers and not always what type of paint was used.

Is the rapco paint actually carc? Or just something similar? I know most people say the behr paint is good but obviously it won’t hold up like Carc when you take a vehicle off-road.

 

[TOBASH]

I will look through it more, there are some photos and sometimes a description but not paint numbers and not always what type of paint was used.

Is the rapco paint actually carc? Or just something similar? I know most people say the behr paint is good but obviously it won’t hold up like Carc when you take a vehicle off-road.

All the paint codes you will ever need are in the Behr section, should you decide to go with Behr paint.

Search for the Behr paint jobs threads and one has all the codes painstakingly listed

 

[01GRANDER]

All the paint codes you will ever need are in the Behr section, should you decide to go with Behr paint.

Search for the Behr paint jobs threads and one has all the codes painstakingly listed

I’ve seen the paint codes but not good examples. I was debating a khaki, luster less gray, navy gloss gray and Air Force strata blue but they only one I’ve found is khaki, I’ve seen varying shades of af strata.